98 manual hub assembly help

We didn't cover it because we didn't do anything with the differential for this mod. I'm failing to understand the necessity for some of the steps in the write-up posted in this thread. The only thing we did for this mod was service the knuckles and hubs from a 1st Gen Tacoma specd' with manual hubs and swapped these knuckles and also some CV axles for the ones currently on Jordan's 3rd Gen 4runner. You shift into 4 wheel drive just like before, but now as an additional step, you have to get out and lock the hubs so the hubs will turn with the CV axles. The main benefit of this mod is your CV axles are not always turning. This is especially advantageous for those who have lifted trucks and they are tearing CV boots with regular frequency because the ribs of the boots are rubbing together. Most of the time you aren't driving in 4wd so this mod allows your CV axles to last longer.

I'm guessing @DJB1 took this mod to a different level I'm just fully understanding the necessity for. I haven't carefully read his whole write-up so I'm probably a little ignorant. When I get more time, I'll take a better look at it.

 

I think it's because there's still vacuum activation to get both sides spinning from the driveshaft out to the wheels - with his mod I think that you don't have any more vacuum activation and it's a completely mechanical operation from shifting to engaging both wheels through the manual hubs. I haven't looked closely, but that's the only thing I can imagine from my limited knowledge of the system.

 

This makes sense. But, IMO, if I've already got the system in place and its working, no need to change it. I'll wait for when/if it malfunctions.

 

For those who did the swap from ADD to manual hubs, what transfer cases did you have? The T-Case or the J-case?

 

When I did my write-up I was only thinking about trucks with J-Shift transfer cases. Since they can manually shift from 2 HI to 4 HI, there's no need for an ADD actuator with manual hubs; they can shift on the fly without it.


The manual transfer case with a 4WD button only has HI and 4 LO. It requires a working ADD actuator in order to shift on the fly from 2 HI to 4 HI and back.


When I have more time I will update my write-up to clarify this. Sorry for any confusion!

Yes, If you have a J-shift transfer case and manual hubs, you can get rid of the ADD actuator and have a completely mechanical front axle, as I have done. If you had the manual transfer case with a 4WD button and deleted the ADD actuator, you would lose shift on the fly capability and you could only engage 4WD using the manual hubs.

 

On my old PreRunner that I converted, I put in the j-case and used the manual-hub-specific diff side-tube and shaft ("jack shaft").

On my current Tacoma that I am converting from ADD, its also got the j-shift case. I wont be bothering to change out the diff side tube and shaft nor worrying about permanently "locking" it at this time.