98 Taco Instrument Cluster Help Needed

Hey Guys,
My Tach and Speedometer have quit working, along with the digital mileage read out. The Fuel and Engine Temp gauges are working. I’ve looked at some older threads and it mentioned the speedometer gear but if it was that, wouldn’t the Tach and Digital Mileage still work? It started last night, shut it off, and it started working again so I’m thinking it’s not a fuse, but I’ll check fuses when I get back home. Now back to not working. Any guesses what the fix would be?

 

Start with the fuses. If those are all good, then look to make sure the connectors on the back of the instrument panel are still connected/making contact (could have oxidation, cutting off the connection).

 

After doing some digging around, I pulled the probe on the Speedometer, and the plastic gears look to be in great condition and not worn at all. Wiring on the switch looked to be fine as well. I checked fuses in the box and none of them are burnt. This problem is intermittent so I’m thinking it may be a contact problem and perhaps i need to take the instrument cluster out, will need to dig around some more to figure out how to do that.

 

Does anything light up on the cluster? When I blew the radio/cluster fuse, everything was dark. My speedo and tach didn't work, and the temp and fuel gauges were "stuck" at their last position -- they looked like they worked, but didn't actually move. Inserting the key and cranking the ignition would start the engine, but nothing lit up like usual. Did you check the radio/cluster fuse with a multimeter for continuity?

 

I haven’t put a meter on it. My blinker signal, bright signal, back light panel still light up.

 

Signals are on a different fuse (TURN in the list below).

If none of the lights are lighting up on the cluster itself, I'd bet it's the cluster (GAUGE in the list below) fuse. Here's a list of the fuses for the internal fuse panel on 98-00:

18 STA 7.5A Clutch start cancel system, starting system, gauges and meters
19 4WD 20A A.D.D. control system, four-wheel drive control system, rear differential lock system
20 GAUGE 10A Gauges and meters, back-up lights, cruise control system, power antenna, power door lock control system, electronically controlled automatic transmission system, starting system, charging system, air conditioning system
21 TURN 10A Turn signal lights, emergency flashers
22 ECU-IG 15A Cruise control system, anti-lock brake system, automatic transmission shift lock system
23 WIPER 20A Windshield wipers and washer
24 IGN 7.5A Discharge warning light, SRS airbag system, seat belt pretensioners, multiport fuel injection system/ sequential multiport fuel injection system
25 RADIO 7.5A Car audio system, power antenna
26 CIG 15A Cigarette lighter, clock, power rear view mirrors, back-up lights, automatic transmission shift lock system, SRS airbag system, seat belt pretensioners
27 ECU-B 15A SRS warning light, daytime running light system, cruise control system, SRS airbag system, seat belt pretensioners
28 POWER 30A Power windows

 

If you verify the fuse is good and end up needing to take out the cluster, here's a good video showing how. Can have it out in ~15 min.

 

Thanks for all the help! Much appreciated, will report back with what I find

 

Looks like if you rule out everything else......
....then this is whats left.........atlanta speedometer....

(2) Toyota Pickup Speedometer Not Working 85-94 - YouTube


Instrument Cluster Programming Repair & Service | Atlanta Speedometer

 

The “Gauge” fuse is still intact and not blown. I’m guessing the only thing left is taking the cluster out and checking for faulty plugs

 

Next step is probably to look at the diagnostic steps for the combination meter in the FSM.

 

Check for a loose ground above the fuse box when you take cluster out.

 

ID ground point

 

Cluster is out, all the plugs look fine, no signs of shorting anywhere. Unfortunately do not have a gauge to put them on. Checked the ground on the ID point, looks fine and is snug

 

The tach, speedo and odometer all are controlled be the odometer module that's held in by a few screws and a plug. You could have a broken solder connection in it.

 

There should be a pin that gives the board its main power 12v+. Try to find the constant 12v+ on the harness side first. Then apply your 12v+ and GND to the board. It should at least light up. If it doesn't, then you may have a faulty cluster after all. I didn't see any in the pics, but these old boards get tiny cracks in the solder joints sometimes, which can be re-flowed.

 

Were you able to find the issue? And if so what did it end up being? I’ve got a 1998 Tacoma that is having the same exact problem. First was intermittent, today it went out completely

 

Never found the issue, but after taking the cluster apart, and putting it back together, it hasn't happened since...

 

Can’t Tell You how many times this ‘taking apart then putting back together’
has solved issues in my experience
Awesome

 

It must have been a loose connection somewhere, that you secured.
Mine has quit working for just a minute, 2 different times in the last 2 years.