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98 tacoma 2.7 runs when cold but engine dies when hot

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by BrandonGP, Jan 4, 2017.

  1. Jan 4, 2017 at 11:26 AM
    #1
    BrandonGP

    BrandonGP [OP] Member

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    LIST of things verified...
    New fuel pump and filter
    All sensors checked out ok
    Clean throttle body
    Verified spark on all plugs and coils test good


    Engine with run for about 5 minutes cooled...once it gets to normal running temp it will start skipping then die. Engine will not restart untill it cools off. Im showing a p1300 code but when engine dies the fuel trims will be -100%. Im thinking i have a bad ecm... any ideas would help thanks.
     
  2. Jan 4, 2017 at 11:32 AM
    #2
    Mush Mouse

    Mush Mouse Club Soda Not Seals

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    check engine light?
     
  3. Jan 4, 2017 at 11:37 AM
    #3
    BrandonGP

    BrandonGP [OP] Member

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  4. Jan 4, 2017 at 11:39 AM
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    BrandonGP

    BrandonGP [OP] Member

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    For bank 1 o2 sensor heater. Surely that wouldnt cause this problem?
     
  5. Jan 4, 2017 at 11:44 AM
    #5
    T4RFTMFW

    T4RFTMFW Well-Known Member

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  6. Jan 4, 2017 at 11:46 AM
    #6
    cruisedon66

    cruisedon66 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like cold start circuit problem. I wouldn't start throwing money at other things like fuel PSI etc. yet.
     
  7. Jan 4, 2017 at 11:46 AM
    #7
    Caligula

    Caligula Well-Known Member

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    It would cause fuel control issues. Not enough to do what your describing. The sensor heater is only used as the exhaust warms up. After a few minutes, the heat from the exhaust keeps the sensor at temperature.

    When does your issue happen, at idle, acceleration? Can you tell what kind of stutter it is, from air or fuel starvation?
     
  8. Jan 4, 2017 at 11:48 AM
    #8
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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  9. Jan 4, 2017 at 11:57 AM
    #9
    BrandonGP

    BrandonGP [OP] Member

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    It seems from my own senses that the engine is extremely lean when it shuts down. When i try to restart... it will try to start but wont. Engine will start to stumble for 5 seconds or so then shuts down. No resart till completely cooled back down.
     
  10. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:02 PM
    #10
    BrandonGP

    BrandonGP [OP] Member

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    Engine will not run long enough to drive on the highway. Just long enough to move it from my shop.
     
  11. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:06 PM
    #11
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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  12. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:06 PM
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    Caligula

    Caligula Well-Known Member

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    No codes other than the o2 heater? Nothing in pending? Is it possible for you to take a snapshot of the PID data as the car is dying?

    I'm going to suggest something on a fluke. Check your idle air control, at idle there should be minimal port vacuum from where it draws air immediately before the butterfly. Just a thought.
     
  13. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:11 PM
    #13
    BrandonGP

    BrandonGP [OP] Member

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    Ive got a new obd scan tool ordered. Should be here friday. The only code is p1300. From my old scan tool.
     
  14. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:16 PM
    #14
    Caligula

    Caligula Well-Known Member

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    Bro, that is an ignitor code, not a o2 heater code. What model is your truck?
     
  15. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:19 PM
    #15
    BrandonGP

    BrandonGP [OP] Member

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    P1300 and the o2 code what should i should have sayed.
     
  16. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:24 PM
    #16
    Caligula

    Caligula Well-Known Member

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    Well the p1300 is what is shutting down the engine. A non-functional coil or ignitor will cause a misfire condition by sending unburnt fuel through the catalytic. The main priority of the ECU is fuel control and to protect the catalytic.

    You may end up just replacing the #1 coil when all is done. Though first check all the leads for it, insulation, use a multimeter between the plug to its corresponding ground and source on the Ecu. When the engine is warm you want to ensure these connections are good, and the ignitor is getting source voltage. If you have a known good part you can just swap it out and see what happens, otherwise do the diagnostic strategy I said above.
     
  17. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:27 PM
    #17
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2-7l-will-not-start-when-hot-any-ideas.168253/page-9

    This is a common issue of the 2/3rz platform. It could be anything from a charcoal canister to the ECT. I would suggest checking all grounds, wires, connections then appropriate sensors, relays, injectors and VSVs before delving into the big ticket ($) items.

    There is only one common issue I've seen to fix this issue ... the charcoal canister (mentioned it the thread above) ... and it isn't a guaranteed fix.

    :humble:
     
  18. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:27 PM
    #18
    T4RFTMFW

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  19. Jan 4, 2017 at 12:32 PM
    #19
    Caligula

    Caligula Well-Known Member

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    This is getting a little queer.
     
  20. Jan 4, 2017 at 1:24 PM
    #20
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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