98 TRD 3.4L Turbo , Methanol , LT

5.2017





Before 01-04 conversion





Official original oem product....up in the mountains on our property.



2.17






8.1.16







2.15.16







Solo Motorsports LT



1.10.16






Welcome to my build thread. Project is ongoing (like most of us) and begun 12 months ago. Truck is a 98 TRD Extra cab, 3.4L, turbo, manual transmission. Currently have extremely modded lighting (projectors, halos, demon eyes), tint, carbon fiber vinyl, and full custom stereo. All work has been done by me. Installed a GT30 ceramic bb billet wheel turbo, devils own meth stage 2 kit, and cx racing pipes to 3" ss exhaust. Finishing off with LT front and rear. It is a DD but will be used to hit street bumps hard and head out to the woodline from time to time. Baja/crawler/street build!

 

Me working on stuff (putting in dynamat and system)....



Interior pictures......



















Current Mods:

-Wheels...KMC Monster 2 (17x9", 3.5" negative offset).

-Exterior Lighting... HID headlights, IPCW halo projectors, with secondary projectors and more added as a retrofit. Color changing demon eyes, halos, white running lights inserted into housing with a drl turn signal that shuts off running light when flasher activates. Clear corner lenses w/white led, corner turn signal mod, smoked led 3rd brake light, and smoked spyderco led tailgates. LED FOG lights installed into the tailgate and two white LED diodes inserted into both mirror housings. LED color changing strip inserted into hood vents.

-Interior Lighting...flashable and dimmable blue LED mood lighting, door panel lights modded w/white LED and dome light white LED, all interior led including dash.

-Carbon Fiber vinyl wrapped hood with functional vented inserts and tailgate. Debadged everywhere!

-Interior...Dashboard gauges modded, 10 inch Android TouchPad running torque pro w/obd2 Bluetooth, front and rear camera recording system, black door panels, seat covers, floor mats, dash mat and redone extracab portion. Replaced seatbelts with black webbing, and nearly Fatmat'd everything except the roof. 5% and 35% tinting depending on location. Window vent visors.

-Audio...full Alpine V12 system, non-amplified head unit (added ikross bluetooth), 4 ch mid/high amp (capped), 2 ch sub amp (capped), 12" shallow mount 2 ohm subs in modified "truck boxes" mounted to cab rear (polyfilled). High end 6.5" 3 way components front and 6.5" 2-way rears. Multiple body grounds. Custom paging alarm with remote start and lojack.

Functional venting to keep bay cool from the big turbo.





-Turbo...Gt30 bb billet wheel, innovative SCG-1 ebc/wideband, Devils Own methanol w/progressive controller, 3" straight out exhaust (stainless steel) w/borla muffler, tial wastegate, hks bov, 2.5" black aluminum charge pipes, cx racing headers/manifold/crossover pipe, ebay 3" bar and plate intercooler.

-LT front...Solo motorsports full kit with fully fabricated 4x4 spindles, all uniball (minus uca), fully boxed upper and lower control arms, heimed steering, king shocks (8" remote resivoirs).

-LT rear....... parts are all gathered including king 16" triple bypass remote resivior shocks, Deaver f67 leaf springs, t-100 axle with new seals and arb air locker (4.88 gears) and a relentless axle truss, king 2.5" hydro bumps,

Body....glassworks 7" big kit front and rear

 

Hell yeah, looks like a good start!

 

Thanks man! Ok, here goes.....Questions/advice wanted?

1) Dropping front diff for oil pan. What are some pointers for that monstrosity? Should I weld in oil return bung at that time and do headers? Replace oil pan seal? And with a stock one or sealant or both.* I have jack stands and hydraulic jack.

2) While doing headers what do I need to know there? I've heard mentioned to replace the v bands and header/waste gate seals. What should I use, not the supplied ones in the cx kit?

3) I have coolant lines to turbo, however I am not sure of the best place to tap into the system and what fitting would be best?

4) I've seen the oil catch can mounted to the passenger side firewall, again not sure of the best way to run lines there?

5) where do I even start with the vacuum lines? I have the wastegate, bov, manual boost controller, and I'm not sure what else should be done for the vacuum system? Do any lines go to the ic piping.

6) I know the best maf location. Straight run before tb. Any thing else to know about the maf?

7) I think my methanol controller (devils own stage 2 (voltage 2 kit)) will either run off that or the throttle body. Not sure which is best? And was thinking about putting a separate resivoir in truck bed box, or just use stock coolant tank? Nozzle installed before tb.

8) Have actual walbro 255 pump, lifting bed I've heard is best to change that out. Got sock to go ever it. Any other mod ding required?* Also need to do injectors and spark plugs at that time. Was going to get denso ik22. What do I gap them at? Also what would be a good injector size. I am not planning on running any urd stuff.

9) Do I have to run the mapecu3 or aem/fic6? Was going to go low boost. Plus with the methanol I thought I would be ok. Have 8 psi spring. Lastly, any advice on an ecu, I was leaning towards mapecu3 with wyfi.

Any input whatsoever would be super helpful! Thank you guys so much.

 

See red above.

 

Wow man that's a lot of info to take in at once. First of all how much boost are you planning to run?

 

Thank you Chris. Good input. Definate learning experience. I have an 8 psi spring in a 38mm wastegate. $50 ebay Item. Figured they are similar in construction. So going to go as low as I can to start, which I believe would be 8?

And some other work I've been doing.....

Ummmm......bought truck boxes and modified them to sit flush against the back of the access cab.....



Dynamat... (Actually fatmat. Same stuff, less expensive). Did everything besides the roof....




Interior lighting.....





Door handle light mod.....

 

One or two step colder plugs gapped to .040 is cherry. You can buy a 4psi spring for your wastegate like I did. I did it like that so I could still drive it in boost without tuning. If your FPR hose is connected to a boost reference (pre or post TB), then your boost AFRs will be 10.5-12.5 with no tuning as long as it's in open loop (pretty much WOT). Depending on your final PSI goal, I would argue that you probably don't even need bigger injectors and a controler since you have meth injection. The stock injectors can handle up to 5-6 PSI safely and your meth injection can give you 11 AFRs up to and beyond 20 PSI (not that I would recommend it). You don't want to put your meth nozzles too close to the TB because too much liquid exposure to your idle control valve WILL eventually effect idle quality and consistently. You either want it right after the MAF or right before the turbo. The mixture vaporizes completely when it gets compressed through the turbo, so don't worry about the MAF being affected. You definetely don't want ANY bends at least 5 inches before the MAF, because readings WILL be off on some scale. Any other helpful advice would be easier to give if we knew what your exact plans were. Do you have a second vehicle to drive? Is the truck going to be a daily driver? Is your budget on the lower end? How much of the work are you planning to do yourself? What are your final PSI and power goals?
EDIT: oh I guess it is a DD, never mind. I would like to hear more about your other mods... being obsessed with LED lighting and carbon fiber myself
I don't think there is a light in my truck that's not hyper white or blue

 

With all your help you guys are like MasterCard, priceless.

your last comment made me laugh. I will post up more pics of my lighting mod and carbon fiber stuff soon.

I was hoping to run the 8 psi spring with my methanol kit. it is a two stage electronic controller. I did not want to mess with the DIY, did a lot of research and would cost about 200 anyway with the Hobbs valve and all that. got the devil's own 344 shipped + pump is 250 psi good nozzls can handle Pure meth and controller can hook up to my tb or MAF. not sure which one? Will most likely run external tank in truck bed box to feed the nozzle.

I still can budget in ECU and injectors since I already have the Walbro 255. can I put the wall bro in now or will it put too much back pressure on it with stock injectors?

is the AEM fic the best buy for the money? I have never tuned before and I'm looking for something that is relatively easy to install and operate? I am competent with computers and electronics to an extent.

it is my DD and I am doing and have done all the work myself. when it is down for several days I can ride the light rail.

also picked up a 3 in 1 welder stick TIG plasma but not sure how to wire it into my household box yet. and I will need to practice on some scraps.

my intercooler is also large with 3 inch charge pipes. I did a lot of measuring and I should be able to cut some things out of the grill and fit it into my year bumper. may have to move some AC lines and have questions about how that would be done as well. wondering if I need to rent a machine to discharge the compressor and recharge it? Also where is the best place to buy the aluminum L channel needed to mount it And what hoses should I run on ac?

If possible I would like to put down 350 to 5 hun hp to wheels on stock internals. At maybe 12 to 16 psi?

I am by no means an expert at all this and if you know someone else that can help please refer them to my build.

 

You need to ditch the idea of more than 8 psi on stock internals. These trucks are incredibly tough, but not that tough. IMO, you should stick to 8 PSI tops with stock internals, or make the jump and throw some forged rods, valves and cams in there and go up to 12-20 PSI. That threshold should not be messed with too much because your truck will not last any lengthly amount of time. IF you do keep it at 8 PSI or less, I wouldn't bother with the fueling and instead richen it up with your meth injection. I don't like dealing with meth so I 'have' to mod my fueling... you have a nice meth injection kit.
You can run the bigger pump with stock injectors. If I can recommend anything, it would be to buy some high quality 304-312 stainless steel welding rods because the cheap crap WILL rust out eventually. You also might want to sell your intercooler and get a 2"-2.5" one with matching pipes, because honestly our powerband works best with that size tubing... aaaand our little trucks don't have room for crap in the grille. Forgive me if this was already answered, but what size turbo are you using?

 

Cx racing said they will swap out my black ic pipes for 2.5" if I pay shipping. They said the turbo I have is good and the 3" pipes would work but would lag.

And damn, I really don't want to sell and deal with the 3 inch IC I have. But if you think it will be better then I will. And I'll pick up a 2.5" ic. What size is best for that? The cx kit one or smaller?

 

Here is turbo....



CXRacing Ball Bearing GT35 GT3576R Billet Wheel Turbo Charger
Stage III Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side
0.70 A/R Compressor Housing, with Anti-surge Inlet
0.82 A/R Turbine Housing
3" V-Band Downpipe Flange
4" Air Inlet and 2.5" Turbo Outlet
Light Weight Billet Wheel Offers Excellent Performance
High Quality Built product. Each Turbo is individually tested and computer balanced.
BRAND NEW, not used, not remanufactured.

Item(s) Specification :
- 4" Air Inlet
- 2.5" Compressed Air Outlet
- Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side Compressor
- Standard T3 Turbine Housing Flange
- 3" V-Band Exhaust Outlet
- 400-600 HP
- Oil /Water Cooled
- Working Pressure: 8-30 PSI
- Compressor: 0.70 A/R
- Turbine: 0.82 A/R
- Compressor Wheel (Major/Exducer): 76.6/58mm
- Turbine Wheel (Major/Inducer): 68/62.3mm
Works for Many Bigger HP Applications

Edit: ended up returning 1st turbo and going with this....



Billet Whee Ball Bearing GT30 GT3071R l Turbo Charger

Stage III Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side
.70 A/R Compressor Housing
.82 A/R Turbine Housing For Super Fast Spool 1.8L-3.0L Motors
T3 Flange to Manifold
3" V-Band Downpipe Flange
4" Air Inlet and 2.5" Turbo Outlet
Works for Many Bigger HP Applications, 400-600 HP
Light Weight Billet Wheel Offers Excellent Performance
Professional Installer Is Highly Recommend
High Quality Built product. Each Turbo is Individually Tested and Computer Balanced.
BRAND NEW, not used, not remanufactured.

Item(s) Specification :
- 4" Air Inlet
- 2.5" Compressed Air Outlet
- Ceramic Ball Bearing on Compressor Side Compressor
- Standard T3 Turbine Housing Flange
- 3" V-Band Exhaust Outlet
- 400-600 HP
- Oil Cooled
- Working Pressure: 8-30 PSI
- 0.70 A/R Compressor
- 0.82 A/R Turbine
- Compressor Wheel (Major/Exducer): 71/53mm
- Turbine Wheel (Major/Inducer): 68/62.3mm

 

Hmmm... That turbo is going to be very laggy as it is... 3" IC pipes all the way through are only going to make it worse BUT it will help your high RPM power (especially if you are going to do all the necessary upgrades to run 12-20 PSI). For around town driving as a DD, I will always always always back up the idea of using smaller pipes and turbo. If I were you I would definitely use 2.5" pipes as much as possible. You won't be disappointed either way, but if you have the patience to wait, you might want to consider it.
On the IC however... If you can easily make it fit, then stick with it. A normal sized 3" intercooler will give you better performance than a 2.5" one of the same overall size because the IC is what causes the most restriction. A very small (6"x18"-24" approx) 3" in/out IC would give you the best flow with very little restriction or lag.
I can't help you with the comparison to the CX IC though since I used one that i bought from ebay.

 

A guy on Customtacos ran his at 17ish or higher for almost 70k miles (daily driver + weekend warrior). Had plenty of track time and was twin charged at one point. All stock. Its all in the tune

 

Drew at yota forums ran 14 psi on his 4runner with a solid tune, 11 AFR all the way up and a fairly new engine with meth injection and that sucker was toast in just a few months (probably a year actually). Does anybody know of any in-depth forums where the person put forged internals in their 5vz for a turbo setup?

 

Check Custom. While most builds are 2RZ's, there are a few 5VZ's and 3RZ's. I know (think???) Gadget said something along the line of 500hp absolute tops, 400-450 tops for reliability, 300-350 is easy. Depending on the size of the turbo, 8psi won't quite brake 300. I plan on up to 10-12ish to reach my goal of 350 crank HP.

Josh, if you get the 4psi spring, you can still turn up boost with your boost controller. The controller only raises boost; it can't reduce boost beyond with your spring is. If I had the chance, I would have put the 4psi spring in just to have to option of dropping boost to 4psi if needed/wanted.

 

Depends on the size of the turbo really I think ill be closer to 9-10psi with the size im running.

 

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