99 2.7 won’t idle or run without backfire and dying

I tried to upload another video for sound but it doesn’t allow it. Fresh gas and sea foam and I think it’s backfiring worse now

 

Why are some of the egr valves $400 and some $40 ? What’s the difference this is a mechanical vacuum controlled valve .

 

On the ecm which one to buy? My Toyota parts guy is on back order and the every other one on eBay claims to be oem part certified lol. Is there a way to test the ecm to verify that that’s the problem for sure?

 

No, but you should be able to open it up a look for obvious signs of water damage, popped capacitors etc etc.

 

My bet is bad ECM. Did you ever get it solved?

 

So I finally figured out the issue but drove it a bit to make sure . So after the 5th bad fuel pump it ran like a champ . 3oem 3carquest and the number 6 carquest is working . Problem seems to be the fuel rail requires 160 psi to function properly and all those “oem” pumps don’t produce that .but for some reason this last fuel pump is hanging in there but I’m pretty sure this is a different pump then the previous two from carquest due to an overwhelming amount of bitching I did . They only put out max 45-50 psi that’s why Toyota fuel pumps are $700 and the others are $65. So word to the wise pay for the Toyota pump or cut a hole in your bed because your going to get tired of pulling it on and off lol

 

I have never seen the 160 psi spec before, where did you get that?

 

High fuel pressure issue seen it before on a 2.7. Have a look at the VSV.

 

I've seen dozens take pressure readings.....

if everything is correct .......its always between 42 and 44 psi


poor o'l fuel pump gets blamed for everything
......the next is bad ecm ........which it almost never is


I tend to gravitate to crank sensor/open circuit relay system

when all thats old......its not a bad ideal to splurge a little..

that relay is such a big deal .....I always carry a spare

the solenoid eventually leaks and the di-electric fouls the pins out
its position pointing down under the dash so it leaks right down on them pins

what happens on the crank sensor....is the pig tail gets compromised from years of oil/grease

 

The tech from Toyota is the one that told me about the 160 psi at the fuel rail . My cat D6T runs an astronomical psi at the fuel rail also of course it’s diesel yadda yadda same concept and the pump was going out on it and I did the same thing so the concept makes sense. Not 100% on the 160 psi that’s the first time I have ever heard that number before but I do know fuel rail systems gas or diesel require a bigger psi output pump . So after not changing anything but the pump the last time it worked and still running . Now all four brakes stared locking completely up while driving . Next project . No abs 99 Tacoma 2.7l and I have to bleed the booster to unlock them . I think it pinching off at the wheel cylinder and engaging them not sure

 

Fuel pressure should be in the 45ish range and as to modern common rail diesels, 25,000 psi is normal. Buddy who works at Ford has seen 6.7 heads split from casting flaws and pressures. Had to run that motor rigged with the head cover off to actually see the diesel spray from the crack, what a mess.

 

^^^^yep seen i Ford HP fuel pump

looked like a tiny V2 engine
tech told me he was going to take apart a bad pump bc of DEF contamination (just to see how it works)
his service mgr freaked out, told him NO WAY......at the time was $1200 core charge!!

 

@glamishman so this 2.7l should be 45psi to the rail? ? I’m going to put a pressure gauge on it right at the outlet of the filter banjo to banjo and see what happens. I found a long ported bolt for specialty fluid lines and it should go through bough banjos into the filter so I hope it works

 

What brand injectors did u install?

 

90% of the time the fuel issue is related to ignition. The poor fuel pump is often disparaged.

 

That's a perfect next step.

 

Yeah that will work kind of... what I mean by that is that testing it that way tests just the pump if you could T it in the system you can check the fuel pressure regulator at the same time. There is a .00001% chance that the fuel pressure regulator is stuck wide open, I have only heard of this, never seen it. The test would be check the pumps dead head pressure, just the pump, then T it in and see if it holds/builds pressure at all. Pain in the rear, it is just a pain in the rear.