99 tacoma 402 code but what type of exhaust manifold replacement

Hi,


Need help selecting a exhaust manifold.
Any suggestions on brands?
Replacement 1 yr warranty, Dorman 1 yr warranty, AutoTrust 5 yr warranty, etc?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...bal&N=0&submit=

If should be oe?
Toyota oem parts are too expensive got quotes over 240.00 plus gaskets plusbolts etc.

 

I got mine at rockauto.com for about $80.00. Worked fine...

 

I don't remember the brand, but it has held up fine...

 

I'm dealing with this same issue right now. It runs bad when its cold but once it gets hot it runs fine. just replaced my exhaust manifold and all the gaskets, even the ones for the exhaust flange. My manifold was completely cracked in half. PO402 was the code before I fixed that, now I'm getting three different codes. A PO135, PO110, and PO100. One is for the O2 sensor which was replaced last year, one is for the mass airflow sensor which was also replaced about 4 years ago, the other code reads a temperature malfunction.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

any cast manifold you buy will crack again, its just a matter of time.

I repeat: DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY BUYING ANY BRAND OF CAST IRON EXHAUST MANIFOLD

the smart repair is to buy the exact fit replacement factory upgraded steel header manifold used on the 2002 and newer trucks that fits perfectly and bolts right onto your engine.

its costs double of a $80 cast one at around $150 but it is heavy duty steel and well worth it and the only "permanent" fix that you wont have to worry about when not if a cast replacement will crack again.

if you look around you can buy a used one at the salvage yard or online from someone selling used parts which is what I did

 

they don't crack solely because they are cast, it has to be either in the metallurgy or in the design. Vehicles have came with cast manifolds sense the beginning and they don't all have problems with cracking.

On the 2rz/3rz yes its a common problem so therefore keakers advice is good as there are reports of the aftermarket cast manifolds also cracking. Wouldn't be a bad idea to step up to the newer tubular manifold or even an after market header. A year and a half ago I installed a pacesetter header on mine for about $170 and its still goin strong and was a direct bolt in. They don't get much love cuz they're cheap but in my experience the header itself is decent quality but the gaskets that came with it are garbage. I installed good quality gaskets with mine and haven't had a leak yet.

 

Glad headers and steel manifolds have helped you guys. What about the cold start issues? Losing power when it's cold but running great when it's hot? The manifold is easy to replace, I can always do that work myself. My question is why are these new codes coming up? EGR Valve may be faulty or clogged? Sensors might be burnt? Sensors seem to be working fine.

 

if you haven't yet maybe google Tacoma and that particular code and see what the most common cause is on the ol' interweb and maybe start there. You could also see if you can get the egr valve off and take a can of carb cleaner to it if it looks gummed up. Probably a longshot but a can of carb cleaner is cheap. Also maybe check all the wires and connections related to it. After that I dunno what to tell ya other than start throwin parts at it.

 

402 could be the modulator. Get one from a wrecker. Cheap and easy to replace.
If it was the valve itself, stuck open a bit, then you would have a rough idle.