99 Tacoma crank no start

I need help. My 99 Tacoma 2.7 with 250,000 was running great until last Friday. I got home from work, parked and when I went to start it to go get something to eat it tried to start then died. It now only turns over seemingly much faster than before. I checked to make sure it was getting fuel at the rail. It is. I pulled a plug to check for spark and it is firing. I'm at a loss. Could it have jumped time? I have read these timing chains are a lifetime part. I need help without having to spend a lot of money at a shop. I have extra time on my hands since I am now on furlough.

 

Welcome aboard new member

 

Possibly TPS. If you have fuel and spark I would assume you have air. That's the holy trinity so I would bet on electrical. TPS possibly. Falty TPS the truck will start and immediately die or crank and not start at all. No crank nothing would be a completely different animal.

 

So would throttle position sensor make it seem like it had no compression or had jumped time?

 

A bad TPS should trip a code on the 3.4 it will still start and run

Sounds like crank pulley sheared the key way and is spinning

A broken timing chain most often jams and you just get a groan

Did you hear any strange sounds when it happened ??

****Have any codes tripped that will point you in the correct direction ???

With the 2.7pulling the valve cover is the only way to peek at the timing chain

 

Remove the air filter hit the intake with a shot of carb cleaner see if it fires then start looking.

 

Ok. I pulled the valve cover off and the chain is still intact. Is there a way I can tell if it has jumped time. I guess these engines don't break very often because I can't find anything with details online. I didn't hear any strange noises when it quit running. I pulled the number one plug out and it's definitely getting gas. It smelled of gas really strongly.

 

So you have gas, no spark then?
Timing chain rarely has issues in these.
So you hold key over and it cranks but doesn't fire up? You get no firing? You have gas so ECU is getting signal from crank and cam sensors.
While it's cranking over does it sound the same as it did when cranking over before? Before it started up? No different sounds for the cranking part?

 

KISS!!!! Keep it simple brah. You didn't jump time. What do you mean make it seem like no compression? What gives you the impression you have no compression? KEEP IT SIMPLE, STUPID. Overnight you didn't blow piston rings. Overnight you didn't jump time. You have air, fuel and spark. If you have the holy trinity and it won't start it's ELECTRICAL. The only difference between gasoline and diesel engines. They're mechanical and we are not.

 

If it's flooded with fuel it can cause low compression by washing the oil off the cylinder walls, smell the oil and if you smell gas, change it. put in a new set of spark plugs then when you try starting it hold the gas pedal to the floor until it fires then let up.

 

Partially incorrect sir. Ask me how I know. Go to my LT build thread and read through last two weeks worth of issues I've had. I just had a TPS go out and it wasn't throwing a code. At first you could start truck and it would idle and run normally until throttle input exceeded 30% then all of sudden it feels like you're in 15th gear. No response from throttle input. This is the classic TPS scenario. I've experienced that twice now in 12 years. One day later before my new part arrived the truck would crank, start and then immediately die. All due to the falty TPS. The ecu needs information from the TPS among a few other sensors to start. Crank, cam angle, coolant temp, air intake temp, MAF. You can test TPS on the truck with a MULTI-METER.

One other place might be MAF but I doubt it unless you just cleaned it. An OBD2 blutooth reader is suggested because you will be able to see all of these metrics real time. First you need to get the engine to run though. OBD2 reader would be able to show you the TPS is working correctly though WITHOUT the engine running. If you press gas pedal and TPS value does not increase or is jumping around you know it's bad.

 

Just what year I can unplug my TPS and drive the Truck just fine maybe mine is a fluke

 

No. It does not sound the same as it did before. It turns over really fast. That's why I say it seems like it has no compression. I mentioned this in the original post.

 

We can only go by the information you give to us.

Have you pulled any codes??

 

I'm wondering if you're describing the symptoms of when the bendix of the starter is not engaging the ring gear or flywheel for whatever reason and just spins fast. And the engine wouldn't be turning over.

This doesn't sound like what's going on right?

 

a bad starter drive to me sounds nothing like a cranking engine .

Yet it very well might to some people.

Easy enough to check with a helper to watch the crank pulley

 

Just throwing ideas out there. Pretty different sounds to me as well, but I could see my brother describing something like that lol

 

No.its not the starter. I don't have a code reader. There was no check engine light. I guess I could go buy a cheap one. I borrowed a compression gauge. It's reading 110 on #1 90 on#2 and #3 and 60 on #4. I just don't understand how it can be running fine and then this. Only thing that seems to make sense would be jumping time. That's why I keep mentioning that. I am no real mechanic, I just like to fix things myself. I'm gonna go out and pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual today. Thanks for all the suggestions. Luckily I have another truck to drive I may just tear this down and do a timing set and have the head checked.

 

Your compression is no bueno. 110 is on the low end of keeping your engine running. 90 is borderline of even firing. 60 is really bad and is not enough compression to fire. That is likely why you are spinning your crank so fast. I don't recall factory specs, but it's likely around 140 PSI. Can't say exactly what happened, maybe blown head gasket, bad rings, bad valves, cracked head.....etc. Gonna need to tear it down. You could do a leak down test to use to try to narrow it down, but either way, it needs a rebuild.

 

How do I do a leak down test