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A 2.7L Filterbox mod, with pics

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by BradleyScottETC, Jan 24, 2010.

  1. Jan 24, 2010 at 8:05 PM
    #1
    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC [OP] Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    Including the "charcoal filter" mod, I decided to do this one.

    First, I examined the filter box itself. The air inlet seemed constricted to me as it reduces the inlet diameter and seems like it restricts flow.

    [​IMG]


    After that, I noticed this GIGANTIC piece of plastic that restricts entering air. It's hard to get to- you have to pull out all the little plastic inserts and reach in to remove the three bolts that hold this into place. If you look at it all it is is a giant reducer, with a smaller tube leading into the air box that pulls the whole thing into a vacuum, for what reason?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then, I took some insultape (brand, it's foam tape) to create a good seal between the air inlet tube and the fender of the truck.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ...And thats it. My next move is to replace all of the plastic with aluminum pipe. I don't have any desire to put a "short-ram" CAI as I do not understand how exactly pulling warm air through a cone filter would necessarily be more beneficial than pulling colder air from the fender well through aluminum pipe and this airbox mod, but I suppose that's debatable.
     
  2. Jan 24, 2010 at 8:23 PM
    #2
    drew02a

    drew02a Rocking your mom's world Since 1997

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    That big platic piece is for keeping water out of the intake. It's perfectly fine to remove it, but be aware of it before you go splashing through big puddles.
     
  3. Jan 25, 2010 at 9:16 AM
    #3
    afd23a

    afd23a Well-Known Member

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    I've heard that the intake resonator (the thing you took out of the fenderwell) is there to help smooth out a dip in the power curve. Removing it is similar to removing the charcoal filter in that some say it makes a beneficial difference, some say it doesn't and is there for a reason. Haven't seen any dyno results to prove one way or the other, but I have both of them removed.
     
  4. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:36 PM
    #4
    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC [OP] Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    I am just trying to get the best airflow possible, I agree that it probably wouldn't be the best solution if it is exposed to higher water levels, but in my case I don't think that's something I'll be worried about... :)
     
  5. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:40 PM
    #5
    drew02a

    drew02a Rocking your mom's world Since 1997

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    What you've done is essentially a 2nd gen version of "the deck plate mod".
     
  6. Jan 25, 2010 at 1:46 PM
    #6
    s2kvtak

    s2kvtak Well-Known Member

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    you say you want to remove the plastic tubes to help add airflow by making them aluminum. the aluminum isnt as good as an insulator as the plastic and can actually give you some "heat soak" meaning adding more hot air into the engine
     
  7. Jan 25, 2010 at 2:00 PM
    #7
    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC [OP] Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    I understand the concept of the heat transfer that you're talking about, but when I mean aluminum pipe I am talking about a straight piece of pipe rather than the rubber/plastic flexible tubing and trying to eliminate the turbulence and maximize diameter. wrapping the aluminum would help with that- I want to get rid of the ridges is what I'm really trying to say.
     
  8. Jan 25, 2010 at 2:03 PM
    #8
    drew02a

    drew02a Rocking your mom's world Since 1997

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    I think what you're doing will probably help with power, but hurt efficiency.

    BTW I really like the idea, but probably wouldn't do it on account of how much I drive through high water.
     
  9. Jan 25, 2010 at 2:09 PM
    #9
    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC [OP] Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    WELL good. I feel like this is a cheap alternative to a CAI, which if you really had a true CAI wouldn't be great for deep puddles either... As far as efficiency goes, I've got a work van and a company gas card. :D
     
  10. Jan 25, 2010 at 2:13 PM
    #10
    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC [OP] Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    I didn't pull the entire fender lining out. I popped out what pins I could and reached in and felt for the three bolts. You can see about were they would be by looking at the pictures- I used a small ratchet to break them free and then loosened them out by hand. You can't really see up in there as well as the picture may lead you to believe because I just turned the flash on the camera and stuck it up there.

    If you break the pins they have replacements that work great at Advanced at about a dollar a piece, the ones I got are intended for GM but look and work about the same
     
  11. Jan 25, 2010 at 2:14 PM
    #11
    drew02a

    drew02a Rocking your mom's world Since 1997

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    I removed my charcoal filter and replaced the stock air filter with K&N and it made a significant difference. Don't know what filter you're using, but a K&N in the stock air box will out perform those cheap "Cold Air" intakes any day of the week. Because, as you stated before, they just pull in air from the hot engine compartment. (even though they sound really cool)
     
  12. Jan 25, 2010 at 2:35 PM
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    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC [OP] Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    I'm right there with you on the K&N, I put one in the night I bought the truck!
     
  13. Jan 25, 2010 at 2:44 PM
    #13
    epa4wd

    epa4wd Well-Known Member

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    I think the smaller hole (first pic) helps the box pull air better, like trying to suck air with a straw then trying the same with a bigger much bigger diameter tube, I know that in my previous truck I tried something similar and lost torque, went to a smaller tube again and got my torque back.
     
  14. Jan 25, 2010 at 2:46 PM
    #14
    Reepur

    Reepur Well-Known Member

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    Nice work and thanks for the photo's. Not something that I will do. I had a CAI on my '99 thinking that I would never get it wet.... guess what! Sucked enough water through it to coat the inside of the tube and get into the engine. Didnt hurt anything other than having a noticeable loss of power.
     
  15. Jan 25, 2010 at 2:46 PM
    #15
    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC [OP] Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    well, it's air volume vs. velocity. I can see were that might make sense.
     
  16. Jan 25, 2010 at 3:04 PM
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    T@co_Pr3runn3r

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    Nice write up.
     
  17. Jan 25, 2010 at 4:43 PM
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    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco POST WHORE M0DERATOR

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    The resonator is mainly there to reduce induction noise. You'll probably notice more "growl" under half to WOT. That's either a good thing or a bad thing depending what you like. Toyota knows the average person (nobody here) wouldn't like the growling.
     
  18. Jan 25, 2010 at 7:15 PM
    #18
    uood8

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    toyota can't void your warranty because of it. they can deny your warranty claim if whatever you did caused a part to fail that you want replaced by them.

    If you sucked up water and hydrolocked the motor your comp. insurance coverage should cover it anyways, not toyota.
     
  19. Jan 26, 2010 at 3:34 AM
    #19
    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC [OP] Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    Well actually, if you look at the picture, the fender well is completely clean. All of the gunk you're seeing is on the well guard that would be in front of this... I dont see why having an open hole and having an open hole that was slightly smaller that 90'd and then turned downward at a 35 degree angle would make or break me as far as sucking in water.
     
  20. Jan 27, 2010 at 5:14 AM
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    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    Previous post fixed......don't know what I was thinkin.
     
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