A/C Compressor Clutch on 3.4

Has anyone successfully replaced the clutch only on the A/C compressor without removing it and discharging the system? If so, what are some tips? I know the prevailing wisdom is just to replace the compressor but after much scouring of the web, I still see references to replacing the clutch only. I have telltale melted plastic around my clutch that leads me to believe that the problem is isolated to the clutch.

 

I recall reading a post somewhere that said the clutch does not interfere with the a/c compressors seal so nothing is preventing the clutch from just being removed and replaced like any other part.

this was just something I took note of in a post somewhere, so definitely confirm the info, but I think its not going to be a problem for you

 

For reference, this is what I have now.

 

Thanks for the info, but access is my biggest concern. What has to be taken off in order to access and replace the clutch. If I have to remove the compressor, complete replacement becomes a no brainer.

 

no, I think you just have to remove the radiator shroud to get to it, possibly the radiator too, but I see no reason you would need to remove the compressor.

as far as replacement of the compressor, you seam to view it as an easy alternative option but they aren't cheap like ford or chevy ones, our compressors can run well over $300 for aftermarkets and as much as $600-$800 for oem replacements

 

Compressor could be locking that would cause the clutch to burn. Waste of time and money if that's the case. I'd replace the complete unit.

 

its very easy to diagnose the problem, you turn the compressor clutch plate by hand, if it is very hard to turn, then its the compressor, if its turns without much effort then its just the clutch went bad.

while its more common for a compressor to go out before a clutch will, it does happen

 

Surprisingly you can get an OEM Denso for less than $200 now. So that, plus another $15 or so for a dryer, and the time involved. It's the hassle of finding a shop that will recover the refrigerant and recharge when I'm done. I've had at least one turn me down outright.

 

wow, prices came down a lot!

the one my dads camry 3 years ago was $650 and the dealer wanted $900 to order it so I got one straight from denso

that pic looks like the pulley bearing seal went bad and grease leaked out

 

Hey do you have any other issues associated with this problem? does the a/c or defroster still work?

 

The A/C does not engage at all. The first indication was that the green indicator light went out and there was no cooling. Found a blown fuse under the hood, replaced it and the new fuse blew immediately. That's when further investigation seems to indicate that the field coil melted. That stuff looks like grease, but it's melted plastic.

Defroster still blows of course, but you do not get the dehumidifying benefit of having the A/C working while it's doing it.

 

Let me check the '03 manual I have and post up what I find.

 

Breakdown.

 

After having a look at the Disassembly Instructions in the manual, it looks like it might be difficult to do while still on the truck.

 

Thanks! And from what I read, there are a number of things that can melt that stator/field coil.

 

I replaced the ac compressor clutch on my 2.7L without removing it from the vehicle. I will tell you that it is not as easy as it seems. While the process is rather simple (remove old clutch, put new one on), it is not easy to get to. I ended up getting multiple different snap ring pliers until I found these that would work

$66 GEARWRENCH 2 Pc. Double-X Internal and External Snap Ring Plier Set - 82110

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M0O1M0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage. I believe I used those in combination with some 45 degree ones. That snap ring is what causes all the problems. There is little to no room to get to it. If you leave the compressor mounted you cannot physically see it. I used a small mirror to look at it, but eventually unbolted the compressor and turned it vertical (with ac lines still attached). I spent over 3 hours trying to get that snap ring off. After that it's smooth sailing.

 

Thanks! I have also heard that the snap ring is a big obstacle. I wondered about these pliers.

$32 Motion Pro 08-0279 Master Cylinder Snap Ring Plier

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...8&sr=8-2&keywords=motorcycle+snap+ring+pliers

 

It's really about the depth of the "hole" that the pliers have to fit into. If you look at that diagram, you can see that the snap ring for the stator is inset fairly far. The other problem is that you cannot expand or contract (I cannot remember which) the snap ring very far because of the size of the shaft and the size of the hole. So you need pliers that can open just the right amount. They cannot be too wide or they will hit the walls of the stator hole.

 

Okay do you have any problems with the engines or the rpms when you are running the defroster or a/c? I'm just curious because I ran into an issue with my a/c compressor a couple weeks ago. I'm trying to see if my problem is similar to yours but I don't think so.

 

There we no changes to rpms. There wouldn't be since the compressor is not functional. The fuse is blown so it does not try to engage. I removed the a/c compressor belt as well so that it doesn't create any additional problems with the burnt compressor clutch.