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A/C Issues

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by xdrcsub, Jul 27, 2016.

  1. Jul 27, 2016 at 11:03 AM
    #1
    xdrcsub

    xdrcsub [OP] Member

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    Ok so I had my awesome BBP SR5 DCLB for a little bit now and have notice a problem now that it's hot outside (around 90). After it sits for awhile it takes close to 10mins to for the A/C to make the cab cold whether it's idling or I'm driving it around town. I just had it in for the 5k and had KennyRoss Toyota check it and stated it was functioning within spec. I don't believe this is normal. Are you guys experiencing the long cab cool downs on initial starts or is KennyRoss Toyota blowing smoke when they told me "They're all like that!"?
     
  2. Jul 27, 2016 at 11:09 AM
    #2
    Kyitty

    Kyitty Mr. Beard

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    Is the A/C not blowing cold air for 10 minutes? Or is it just taking 10 minutes to drop your cab from 150F to comfortable?

    Sitting in the sun at 90F outside will make the interior much, much hotter than 90F. I lived in Phoenix a long time and I can tell you even a good A/C unit can take a while to actually cool down the cab.

    If the A/C unit is taking 10 minutes to actually blow cold air... then you definitely have a problem.
     
    Simon's Mom and axisofoil like this.
  3. Jul 27, 2016 at 11:15 AM
    #3
    asiantaco 253

    asiantaco 253 Well-Known Member

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    Mine only takes 30 second before it start blowing cold air.
     
    Aussiek2000 likes this.
  4. Jul 27, 2016 at 11:17 AM
    #4
    axisofoil

    axisofoil Rocket Surgeon

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    Mine blows cold air near instant, but it takes about 5-10 minutes to get the cab comfortable, and about 20 before the auto mode ac slows down fan speeds when set to 71.

    This is in Phoenix, where we've been over 110deg daily for what seems like the last month.
     
    Aussiek2000 likes this.
  5. Jul 27, 2016 at 11:29 AM
    #5
    sadmrhappy

    sadmrhappy <insert clever title>

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    No problems with mine, it's usually cool in less than 10 minutes. I use a sun shade on the windshield and I put on vent visors so I can leave the windows cracked without worrying about rain. It helps a lot to keep the interior from getting as hot.
     
  6. Jul 27, 2016 at 12:07 PM
    #6
    imdav2u

    imdav2u Well-Known Member

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    Same here in St. Louis.At least Phoenix is a dry heat. lol.
     
    CusterFan likes this.
  7. Jul 27, 2016 at 12:49 PM
    #7
    The hammer

    The hammer Who’s the Wrench?

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    Mine blows cold! Brrrr...

    But ok, here's the deal:
    Find a thermostat that can read down to 0*f with a stem (sensor) that you can stick on the driver’s right side vent (above the cruise control lever or start key side) and make sure the front of the vehicle is not blocked by any walls large objects and such.

    Turn both the temp knob and fan to full and max cold and let it run for about a minute.
    After about a minute, step on the gas to Idle at about 2k rpm for another minute, and drop the fan speed to low and observe the thermostat reading.
    At around 21/2 minutes from A/C engine start-up at 87* (reference only, your temp may vary results) Thermostat should be around -40* f.

    If your results are not even close, say above 46-48*f you may be low on refrigerant due to a leak, or another low from the factory scare type scenario that may develop. J/K lolo!

    Either way, a trip to the stealership is you best option as they should check for leaks and top it off after any repairs.

    Edit: I've ruled out the fan clutch as I'm assuming OP is on the road in ten minutes, but if not, opening the hood and checking the air flow behind the fan there should be a flood of air with the engine at normal operating temp blowing.

    Hope that helps
    Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2016
  8. Jul 27, 2016 at 1:05 PM
    #8
    xdrcsub

    xdrcsub [OP] Member

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    It blows cool air for the first 8mins including if I'm driving it then switches to blowing cold air whether I'm driving or not. Basically I leave the Max a/c on full blast all the time occasionlly turning the fan speed down to one notch after 15-20mins. Comparing this to my wife's 2015 Rav4 where I have to turn down the A/C before I back out of my driveway with 1 minute of idle on the same day, I with you thinking there's a problem.
     
  9. Jul 27, 2016 at 1:20 PM
    #9
    Herniator

    Herniator Well-Known Member

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    I usually drive for a few minutes with the sunroof and windows open to let the heat out. Helps cool down quicker.
     
    Plain Jane Taco and xdrcsub[OP] like this.
  10. Jul 27, 2016 at 1:31 PM
    #10
    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    your a/c is bunk unless 2016 was resigned for fuel efficiency


    my ac 2013 starts cold in 30 seconds and stays cold...then it is a matter how cool
    the surfaces and seats get or how much hot air I burp out before closing windows tight

    sounds like yours is bogus, or designed for fuel efficiency and won't go full clutch till engine
    is warmer (which technically would reduce emissions and improve economy)
     
  11. Jul 27, 2016 at 2:04 PM
    #11
    George1441

    George1441 Much happier

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    My SR5 AC works perfectly. It gets so cold you can swing beef in there
     
  12. Jul 27, 2016 at 2:13 PM
    #12
    Aussiek2000

    Aussiek2000 Well-Known Member

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    Those specs are incorrect for modern AC systems. At 80+F and 50% humidity 50-55*F output temp would be normal.
     
    The hammer[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Jul 27, 2016 at 2:48 PM
    #13
    CusterFan

    CusterFan Well-Known Member

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    Yeah mine in the SR5 AC 4 cylinder works great also. I have yet to turn the a/c MAX on. I also use a good sunshade I bought on AutoAnything. It does make a difference. I have 20% tint on the front 2 windows also.
     
    The hammer likes this.
  14. Jul 27, 2016 at 2:52 PM
    #14
    The hammer

    The hammer Who’s the Wrench?

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    Thanks Aussiek2000...
    Full disclosure, I did not use the factory service manual as reference.
    I used the findings on my '16 Taco as actual field reference when I did my A/C performance ck.
    I also did it on my 13yr 4R last summer and it chimed in at 42*f at around 90*f

    Hope that clears it
    Cheers!
     
    Aussiek2000[QUOTED] likes this.
  15. Jul 27, 2016 at 2:55 PM
    #15
    Aussiek2000

    Aussiek2000 Well-Known Member

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    Newer systems while have the capability to cool well, are only really expected to cool 30-35*. R1234 as used in the 3rd gen is a finnicky refrigerant.
     
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  16. Jul 27, 2016 at 2:59 PM
    #16
    The hammer

    The hammer Who’s the Wrench?

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    That means (I) we're doing exceptional then!
    Cheers!
     
    Aussiek2000[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Jul 27, 2016 at 3:09 PM
    #17
    The hammer

    The hammer Who’s the Wrench?

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    Underworld Flex trifold, tinted, TRDPRO grill, TRDPRO shift knob, etc,etc
    But I do find that the factory manual gives just too much lea-way from actual field performance test I've done, and I'm not just talking for A/C systems, but from things such as engine oil consumption amounts, to the amount on electrical parasitic draw.
    The factory guidelines just would not cut it in the real world, except to cover their a$$! lmaoo!

    Cheers!
     
  18. Jul 27, 2016 at 3:14 PM
    #18
    Aussiek2000

    Aussiek2000 Well-Known Member

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    I don't work for Toyota, but our guidelines are pretty tight for specs.
     
    The hammer[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Jul 27, 2016 at 3:16 PM
    #19
    The hammer

    The hammer Who’s the Wrench?

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    What are your guidelines for engine oil consumption and electrical parasitic draw?
     
  20. Jul 27, 2016 at 4:09 PM
    #20
    Aussiek2000

    Aussiek2000 Well-Known Member

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    Application slecific.

    But on a normal engine, 1qt per 2000 miles. On a high performance car that sees sustained high rpm (track day)they spec 1qt per 500 miles I think.

    Parasitic draw is generally below 200Ma but again, application specific
     

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