A different approach to rear shock relocation

My current wheels have a slight positive offset of 10mm. I was just going to put on a set of wheel spacers to account for the rubbing if I needed to. What offset are you running with your wheels to avoid the rubbing?

 

I’m running scs sr8s. 17x8.5 and 1.25” spacers in the back still slightly rub on a hard stuff

 

@SearArtist

 

Ah, great, thank you for that.

 

I've been sitting on the towers and shocks for a while, bought them from someone who was going to do the swap and backed out, I'm planning on doing the 63's and this before long. Question is will my clutch go before I've got all the swap parts...

But what's this about a 70 WMS axle you're putting in? Disc brakes? What's your new rear suspension plan?

Ver curious!

 

Plan is a 3rs gen 4 runner with 06 f250 axles with 40s and a 3 link in the front, taking out the rear suspension and running leafs in the back

 

After reading they this thread I’ve decided to tackle this awesome idea. Got my shock towers in, ruffstuff axle mount tabs and fox 2.0 14” stroke shocks on the way. Will post up results when I get it done probably next week.
Only concern will be tire rub on the shock, I’ll take plenty of measurements and all that of course. I have 4.5bs -12 offset wheels on 315s. Anyone by chance running that particular setup with this relocate done? If not, I can always do as mentioned above, cut the shock towers to be located more inward and weld over the cut. Just seeing if I have my work cutout for me or not

Pic of current setup

 

Well finally got it done and it works great. The stock mounts are kind of a pain in the arse to get off lol. I did modify the ford mounts to where they were almost touching the bed. Have my bumps setup to perfectly weld the shock tabs to the front middle of the axle housing. (Rebuilding the bumps while they’re out) Did a little articulating and I do need wheel spacers after all. Not a big deal. Great mod and glad I did and saved some coin. Here’s a few pics

 

Great idea on moding the Ford mounts.

 

I built some shop hoops that tuck up as high as I could make them (probably could've pushed up a bit higher, but reasonably, this is what I got). I didn't like how the Ford towers oriented the shock eye perpendicular to the bottom eye so this was my solution. The top plate will have 2 more bolts going up in to the bed that at some point will tie in to a crossmember from one shock hoop to the other.

 

I did the same thing except I added a plate on both sides to reinforce the mount. works good.

 

Pics of said reinforcement?

 

Curious as to your reasoning to mount the top of the shock perpendicular instead of parallel?

 

When building suspension systems with spherical bushed rod ends like on coilovers or high dollar smooth body shocks, it’s best the run the bushings in the same orientation to prevent binding. I’m upgrading to Bilstein 7100s soon which have spherical bushings. I don’t think it’s as necessary with rubber bushed shocks like I have pictured. Most, if not all shock relocations for Tacomas do it this way except for the Ford mounts.

With Ford’s original design where these were used, they too had the shock mounts oriented the same way albeit perpendicular to the frame instead of parallel how Tacomas have it but nonetheless with matching orientation.

Hope that makes sense.

 

not a good picture but its the only one I have right now. Its literally just plates on both outer sides of the ford mount making it a little more than double the thickness.

 

Little update to my mounts as I didn’t want to run wheel spacers anymore. I moved them more inboard and added a brace across the bed. The cross brace made a world of difference on the ride.. I think the forces going into the shock mount were actually multiplying being the shock mount has sideways leverage on the frame. Truck feels more planted on bumps and doesn’t seem to move the vibrations thru the frame.

 

Also forgot to add.. I moved up to 37s recently and a recent wheeling trip saw wheels in the air and only have the slightest dirt/mud rub on the shock body. Telling me it got close, but nothing to be worried about

 

I don't know how fast you intend on going but the bilstein factory valving of "255/70" is going to ride bad. Also the shock shafts are 1/2" dia. Might bend them especially on a 14" length. I ran this same shock in the rear of my old ranger with 14" travel Deaver springs and the ride was shit. I get that you are trying to fit a 14" shock in there but I think a re-valveable shock is a must. Also I think the old BILSTEIN "weld top" 9100 series 2.5" remote resi shocks were a short collapsed length so that might also fit.

 

wait ... you cut into the bed anyways? Why not just build a low profile bed cage then: