A different approach to rustproofing...my experience

Ok folks...I've seen a fair number of posts on how many of you prefer to rust-proof your Tacomas. I've read about "oiling" your vehicle, undercoating, grinding and repainting, rust converters, etc. There are many options available as we can see. I live in western NY, and we get a fair bit of snow....and we get the subsequent salting of the roads. Yay!

Well, I just wanted to share my approach to the dreaded oxidation issue...it's called wax cavity protection. Comes in a spray can (500 ml), has a standard nozzle and a separate thin flexible hose with a funky tip that allows 360 degree misting.

I originally tried this stuff on my '07 tacoma.....bought it at a local auto parts store that really caters to body shops. Can't remember the name, although I believe it was German. I sprayed the inside of everything I could think of (inside the fenders, rocker panels, lower part of the doors where water collects, inside the tailgate,etc.) What I didn't do was spray the frame...and it started to rust, naturally. But, through five winters no rust appeared on any of the body parts I treated....not bad huh?

Fast forward to now...I just got a 2011 Tacoma, and yes I went back to the same auto store. Found the cavity spray....It's called CarWorx, distributed from Canada but I think imported from Europe. It's about $18 per can...took me three cans to treat entire truck including the frame this time. Wish me luck, and I'll try and report my progress as the years press on.

What I like about this stuff....the flexible hose/misting tip means I can access tight spots. Excellent adhesion, this stuff sticks to whatever you spray...so be careful. It doesn't wear off, ever.

My advice for using this stuff.....start fresh with a clean slate, as soon as you can after buying your new truck. If you need to clean any part of the body or frame, use Acetone as this will kill any moisture that may be lurking....and it evaporates quickly. Most importantly, try to do this in the warmer months if you can help it.

I'm not an expert, but I tried to do my homework prior to taking this plunge many years ago. So far it seems to work well....I'm curious if anybody else has given this a try. I'd be interested in what others have tried (regarding less conventional methods). Thanks for reading.

 

Is this the stuff?
http://www.carworx.net/products.php...tion=list&search=&category_id=20&catalog_id=1

 

x2, does it have any color to it? Seems like some of the areas you sprayed will be visible.

 

sounds better than the expensive treatment the dealer tried to sell me.

 

Sounds alot like what my good friend who owns a tree service just did to my new truck.
He uses a mix of Husquarvana bar chain oil & a melted bar of wax. Pours mixture in a bug sprayer & mists the undercarriage etc. Let dry & touch up as needed.
Every truck he owns looks great after the winter salt seasons here.
He takes care of all his stuff & I didn't want the tundra to look like my 06 Tacoma did.
I am hoping for the same results! Sounds like that stuff you mentioned is similiar.
Thanks for review!

 

Been around in Europe for decades often called wax oil has a slight yellow tint to it. Smells like crayons works far better then any thing else out there.

 

Wow...so many quick replies.....I'll try and answer to my best ability.
TokinTRD: Pics of what? The can, or a treated section?
Joneill03: You're close, it's part number 126.061 wax cavity protection.

To any others: yes it looks like you've sprayed something on the metal/paint...a slight film is visible. But then again, who's really looking at your undercarriage?

 

Ok...I've thought a little more on this. As far as pics, no I don't have any before and after shots...so I'm not going to bother. Yes, the stuff has an amber color to it....and whatever you treat may end up with a satin/flat looking finish to it. When you're using it, just make sure you wipe off any overspray or drips quickly....use acetone or rubbing alcohol if needed.
On another note, I even pulled the fender flares and treated the painted section that resides underneath the flares....as they tend to gather those nasty little rust causing particles. If you're worried about overspray, then mask the area. That's the best I can offer at the moment. Like I said, I'm no expert....but I have researched the subject quite thoroughly....and I chose this option. That is all.

 

My VW had this stuff. Worked very well, especially on weld seams where you typically see the first signs of rust. It doesn't chip off due to being applied on even surfaces either.

 

Looks like the 126.034 would be the correct product for the underbody.

 

I just did every thing I own with this--http://www.fluid-film.com/ if it's half as good as they say it is it can't be beat. A high pressure sprayer will apply it just fine (Wagner electric sprayer or any high pressure sprayer) non toxic won't harm any thing paint, rubber etc. 1 gallon will do at least 3 trucks also comes in a rattle can.

 

^ I use the fluid film in a spray can. Great stuff but watch where you spray it becasue it doesn't come off easily. 3300psi to remove or Degreaser. Great lubricant as well. Really good stuff.

 

Wow I had no problem with just soap and water did kind of spray my grill and a bit of my hood. I did spray my farm stuff and yes it works well as a lubricant chains etc.

 

subbed for future use haha

 

I sprayed mine with FF the first week i had it. Backing plates, diffs, frame etc.

I'll spray it again next month when i spray the Wrangler.
Have a Dakota with 130,000 miles and did an alignment earlier this year.
I had sprayed the adjustments with FF over the years before winter.
Turned the adjusters like brand new.

Never heard of CarWorx but i have a opinion after all the years up here in Maine.

I use to spray Rustproofing. And some stuff dried and some didn't. The stuff that dried cracked on occasion and let road salt seep in and cause rust.
IMO your best bet is stuff that stays soft and pliable. FF and similar stuff never begins to harden. You can wipe it off if you want to.

Once a year in the summer I power wash the under carriage and wait a few days to dry. I then just spray FF in a can all over. Doesn't have to be thick, just a coating. The jeep is 6 years old and still look great.

One thing for sure. you NEED to do something. With the type of salt they are using on the roads now it's a death sentence to cars. The salt mix has gotten stronger over the years and it's rusting cars so fast you can almost see it happening.

Weather it's

fluid film
CarWorx
old engine oil
Or Judy's Husquarvana bar chain oil - wax mixture.

ANYTHING is better than doing nothing

Good luck with it mclaysa

 

Another product similar to Fluid Film is Lanox MX4, they are both lanolin/wool grease based. I sprayed it all over a Land Rover I had, but i sold it before it saw a winter so can't speak to its performance. However, it did go on very easy, penetrated all the nooks and it smelled good to top it off. It can be sprayed all over, won't hurt anything, just fire away.

To the FF users, does it come off from a soapy hot carwash? Lanox was pretty durable, but I would say apply it every Fall if you live in a salt area.

Also, before I applied it I washed the underside with Simple Green Foaming Cleaner, with green crystals. It worked really, really, well. I got it at Grainger, it was an industrial formulation not available at "consumer" stores.

 

To be honest I don't know. You would take some of the "Thickness" off but i believe the protection would still be there. I'm no chemist but i read somewhere that FF bonds with the metal itself for protection. Can't remember where i saw it.i do know after i power wash and it dries i can still rub my finger on the frame and get some off. Keep in mind I'm not using super high pressure. So i'm assuming similar products would react the same way.

 

dosent chemical guys make some kind of undercarraige cleaner or somthing?

 

TacoSport: Yeah, looks like the underbody wax spray would work well....probably very similar to the cavity spray. I just went with the cavity spray because the auto store regularly stocks that variant and not the underbody spray. The cavity spray adheres like a mo-fo and worked for me in the past. I remember spraying my '07 taco between the bed and back of the cab, and 4+ years later the film was still holding strong.
TacomaMike: I totally agree with you....if you reside in the "salt belt", treat your vehicle with something. If unsure of what product to use...go pick someone's brain at a body shop, auto parts store, laboratory, etc. Just be proactive about it...and if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is (rust zapper, sacraficial anodes, etc).

 

It used to be the old timers trick to spray the under carriage with oil motor oil up here in Maine with a bug sprayer but years ago they put a stop to that so this FF oil does the same thing only better and it's non toxic. The makers of FF oil say a pressure washer will take it off but other then that it should stay put it has no solvents so it never dries. I took all the wheels off and the spare out (if nothing else I turned it over) and sprayed every thing including the exhaust (not part of the plan) boy did it some smoke for awhile. Next spring I’ll give a full report if it’s still wet I’m going to say to did what it was cut out to be it will be a good test with the salt up here both in Maine and NH. I may spray the house a side effect is bugs stick to it maybe a good way to deal with black flies come spring!