A "weighty" issue: Running out of payload capacity....

no chance of changing your axle placement on the trailer or balancing the trailer differently.
I used to do trailers at a dealership and we used to drive them cross country for shows. Only thing you'd want to be driving and the only thing that lasted any time was old dually. 454 quad cab dually. Would barely make high way speed and sucked down gas, but would pull a train.

My experience, using no more than 2/3-3/4 of your total capacity if you're going any distances. Driving the trailer 5 hours out to the hunting property once a year or so, eh.. whatever.
Had a salesman out there that would rent out his services to deliver/pick up trailers for service. He had a ford ranger with helper springs, and a fifth wheel plate. It seemed to get along fine. Though unladen the thing was hella raked.

Also a fan of air bags

AND HA HA comparing a toyota truck to a tacoma. Start treating your tacoma like a toyota and you'll be out quick.

 

I can probably relocate the 2 golf cart batteries on the trailer from the front deck area to the rear bumper. That would take about 125 lbs off the tongue, and put it behind the rear axle, creating a small counterbalance effect. Relocating the axle would be impossible.

I could also look at replacing the two 20lb propane tanks with a single 30lb or 40lb tank and see if that would create a weight savings. I could even switch to a 33lb aluminum tank (tare weight 18lbs), which would save 18lbs over the twin 20's (plus the weight of the reduced fuel capacity). A single 30lb steel tank would still save about 5lbs in tare weight, plus the 10lb fewer in fuel. We've never gone through a single 20lb tank in a camping trip, much less two...

These two options alone would likely reduce the tongue weight by 150 lbs (and get me closer to the "ideal" tongue weight percentage of 10% to 15%, vs. the rated 20%.)

Also probably going to look at an AAL (either TSB or aftermarket) plus an Airbag setup. I'll wait on that until I can drag the camper out to a scale and play around with different loading options.....

 

How much more will your kids weigh in 5 years.
For now maybe,try an add a leaf or air bags. You have the numbers and some time, see how things go without adding offroad components, perhaps taking some gear out of the truck even for trailer trips. A systematic approach like you've started might yield some compromises, but some results too.

 

2 daughters, so hopefully not too much more! I'm hoping for an incremental 100 lbs or less between the two of them. That's regardless of the Taco payload rating, but healthy weight for the both of them.

I wish portable axle scales weren't so expensive. I'd love to have a pad scale or two for doing tongue weight and axle weight measurements. But the cheapest I've found is $1,400 for a single scale. Ouch!

 

What a hassle!

Excuse me if I'm missing something, I'm really not that much of a tow-er to know the details. But...isn't this something a weight distributing hitch is supposed to help with? Making sure the weight is correctly distributed between tongue and axle, I mean.

I really am not sure at all, or especially how to make sure they work right either!

 

No, the WD hitch doesn't help reduce the tongue weight, it just helps to redistribute the tongue weight more evenly between the front and rear axles on the tow vehicle. It would still place the full tongue weight on the truck as "payload."

By moving weight behind the axle on the camper, that reduces the tongue weight load. Then, when using the WD hitch, it is redistributing a lower amount of weight between the two axles on the tow vehicle.

 

I guess that's why I'm getting confused a little.... reading this on etrailer.com...

"Weight distribution hitches add spring bars to the hitch system that apply leverage between the tow vehicle and the trailer. This leverage transfers the load sitting on the rear of the vehicle to all the axles of the vehicle and trailer." (emphasis added)

Wouldn't that mean some (1/3 theoretically, maybe 1/2 I'm not sure) of the tongue weight gets shifted back to the trailer axle? Do all WD hitches not work the same?

I found that here:

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx

 

Stick with the 6" cold cut from subway, not the 12" meatball sub. These trucks (as much as I enjoy my Toyota) don't have much for a weight capacity rating from the factory.

Just to throw some comparative figures out your way.

I own a 2005 double cab long bed 4x4 which I'm building rear leafs for so I've covered the ins and outs of what our trucks are capable of.

(Keep in mind my figures are for my 2005.)

This is stuff that should be pretty similar across the board and you can look up on your door window sticker.

Door GVWR 5450lb.
Door GAWR FR 2755lb.
Door GAWR RR 3110lb.

From the Toyota Web site (for the double cab long bed 4x4)

curb weight 4190lb. (this must be with an empty tank and helium in the tires becasue I've never come close to this figure)
GVWR 5450lb.
payload 1260lb.

Now on to the meat and potatoes the figures for my truck in specific.

My total weight 5520lb. (I'll get into specifics of what this includes later)

Weight on front axle 2960lb.
Weight on Rear axle 2560lb.

Now lets compare some figures.

my total - gvwr -> 5520lb-5450lb = 70lb
this shows that I am currently 70lb over the recommended gvwr

my front axle weight - gawr fr -> 2960lb-2755lb = 205lb
this shows that I am currently 205lb over the recommended gawr fr

my rear axle weight - gawr rr -> 2560lb-3110lb = -550lb
this shows that I am currently 550lb under the recommended gawr rr

now lets look at the Toyota recommended gawr.
gawr fr + gawr rr = 2755lb+3110lb = 5865lb
this is as the total weight the axles can handle.

total gawr - gvwr = 5865lb-5450lb = 415lb
this means that the axles can handle a total of 415lb over what the vehicle itself can handle.

I'm sure you have done all this number crunching yourself.

Now onto my truck and how it is set up.
Once again, its a 2005 Double Cab Long Bed 4x4.
Modifications

On the front of the truck
ARB Bumper
9500 lb winch with synthetic line
Donahoe Coil Overs
dual optima blue top batteries with misc electrical components to complete

On the rear of the truck
All Pro Bumper with wrap around protection
Fiberglass Bed Cap
Sleeping Platform (approx. the equivalent of 1.5 sheets of 3/4" plywood)

Other
265/70/17R Toyos on stock rims
10 gals of spare fuel
~100lb of chains and recovery gear
misc small items that I carry in the truck (ie. flashlights, first aid, food, etc)

When the truck was weighed (on a certified state scale) It had a full tank of gas, all the items listed above (what I drive around with loaded daily), and myself.

Conclusions.

Based on the specs for my truck; I am driving around over the gvwr every day. This weight does not include any camping gear/ski gear/bike gear/adventure gear. It just includes everything I drive around with on a daily basis. I dont tow a trailer or think I am exceptionally demanding or abusive to my truck, but it's surprising to see how fast you can eat up the payload capacity on these little trucks. These figures also don't include the skids, sliders, or other modifications I'd like to complete on the truck. Seems like if you throw on a bed cap and a full tank of gas you've got yourself a glorified Subaru with a little more ground clearance and lots of grocery space.

What I've come up with;
If you want to stay below the Toyota gvwr don't modify the truck and just use it to carry around yourself, a couple of friends, and some groceries.
If you want to modify the truck and still stay below the gvwr buy a different truck with a higher payload and gvwr.
If you're not concerned about the gvwr go ahead and modify to your little hearts content.


Don't get me wrong, I enjoy my truck and plan to continue using it as is for years to come. Good luck with your endeavors...

 

I didnt realize I have it easyl. Basicaly, It weighs around 3640lb nearly empty fuel and minus dvr. weight ,gvwr 5100lb. so I have 1400 lb to work with, perhaps 1000lb cargo realistic.

 

Just leave the wife at home. Problem solved.

 

Not married...how else do you think I can afford all my toys?

 

IIRC the 5 speed in the 4.0s was built for a larger application, I believe the 4.7 but idk what vehicle, so I doubt that will be the limiting factor.


EDIT: heres the vehicles
2003+ 4Runner (4x4)
2005-2009 Tacoma (V6 4x4)
2009 FJ Cruiser (Canada V6 4x4)
2003-2009 GX 470 (4x4)
2003-2007 LX 470 (4x4)
2005- Land Cruiser Prado 3.0 D4D (4x4) European version
2005 - Fortuner 4.0L

 

I have carried a 1/2 ton of rock/sand bags in the bed of mine, and myself, one passenger and a few tools. Aside from saggy in the rear it drove well enough...even stopped pretty good since the rear tires 'bit' really well with that weight over the axle.

I'm pretty sure airbags and/or springs would have fixed the saggy butt but since that's occasional hauling I don't really feel the need to make the ride stiffer than TSB ride is.

If I WANTED to (effectively) increase GVWR what would you say is the issue? I've heard power train wear will increase...I can see that. It would with any vehicle when you start hauling a lot of weight. What's the REAL limiting factor?

Does the frame buckle? or what?

But still, I can see the point of what you're saying: I dont think Tacoma was ever intended to be a 'work' truck per se. I think it is intended to be, just like it's forebears, a suburban truck for the use of a homeowner doing household hauling of mostly ping pong balls, and only occasional heavy hauling. Exactly like I do.

As a 'work' truck, it's purpose is best found as a delivery truck (like a lot of small companies around here do) or other light applications. Still, I find it really amusing that there's a lot of Comcast cable guys driving around in way overloaded Tacoma's in my area. They really should see about heavier springs in the back.

 

Limiting factors to the weight, as you say real , could me any of these, im sure ill miss some too.... axle rating/strength ,spring rating , shocks , brakes( big one) , axle bearings. Lesser ones but just real might be the driveshaft size, ring/pinion , frame(most are real strong) , transmission, and fuel tank size.
Weight of the truck , length and width matter too , a simple matter that a full size tows a given weight easier, longer and wider help make it more stable, the weight makes it harder for the trailer to jostle the truck around.
Factory options , great as they are , load down a truck , they often dont list them as taking cargo capacity from you. Thats why weighing a full tank and driver is great , you get a real number of whats left, in mid and 1/2 tons, the shocker is when you are already down to 500-800lb left of cargo. Consider the tacoma a wimp? DONT. Most full size, 1/2 ton, 4wd, extended cabs, and crew cabs have similar or less weight available for cargo,but they usually do have higher combined vehicle weight rating and higher tow capacity.

 

There's no need in my eyes to "step up" to a full size truck over a Tacoma...unless you're stepping up to an HD truck.

 

I'm sure all of those are factors in determining the ultimate weight carrying capability...but not all of them equally so. I mean, getting the TSB made an obvious improvement in weight hauling for my truck. But now WITH the TSB, something else will be the weak link...but what?

If I put airbags or stronger leafs in back and tried to haul 3/4 ton in the back...what would pop to the surface first as inadequate?

I really think it's a good 1/2 ton truck now...that is, 1/2 ton of payload is safe and easy for it. And by that I mean including about 350lbs for driver, passenger tools and fuel. Not much, but still it's perfectly useable like that.

But that's what I think and I admit to my inexperience since this is my first truck! Really, I'm thinking of it like I would my car: if it starts to wallow and bottom, then I'm overloaded. Air up the tires and make sure the total weight is less than their weight rating, then drive careful and don't do it very often.

 

Here are my two cents: I have a 2006 TRD Sport v6 access cab with towing package. I am a contractor towing 6' x 12' enclosed trailer. Tools in bed always. Last winter I towed a Kubota b21 4x4 "baby backhoe" Very rare thing for me to tow this much but it was less than the 6500 towing limit so I figured it was ok. Truck was overloaded. It worked but not well. So I installed OME Heavy Duty Suspension //www.trdparts4u.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-7220

Truck feels very good and very strong. I traded my 2005 2500HD chevy for my Taco and I do not regret it. Truck meets my needs just fine. I take care of it and it takes care of me. If you really want to tow and be safe I would recommend this option.
Best of Luck

 

You pretty much confirm my whole point, one doesnt always realate to another , or = more load. While the TSB is/was a problem , it mght not have been the limiting factor, just the most obvious.There will always be limits , simply respect them and work within them.
The airbags you mention wont change the axles strength or do anything for the front axle when braking , nor actually allow you to carry more , just people thenk they do , they re-level the load and stabilize it.

 

I say your to worried about the fine print in all of this. This is 1250lbs in my truck earlier this year, plus me and all of my stuff. everything was solid except for the TSB rear springs. will be upgrading to a aftermarket leaf pack somewhere down the road