A340F advice - 2014 4x4 'shudder' NOISE (this is different!)

A lot of guys bust the transmission pump when they remove and install the transmission . Spray your dowel pins before you remove the bellhousing as these transmissions fit tight against the engine block .
Before you install the new converter , test fit the converter in the back of the crankshaft pilot .Some converter shops paint the converter pilot . You may have to remove the paint that the shop sprays on the rebuilt converter . These are tighter than Honda converters . These converters fit very very tight . Use emery cloth to get the converter pilot to fit , then grease the pilot up with never seize . Also never seize your dowel pins .
Tighten 2 bellhousing bolts very slowly until snug, spinning the converter as you tighten the 2 bolts . If you cant spin the converter by hand as you are drawing the transmission into place , stop as something isnt rite .
I just purchased a motorcycle jack too lol .
I normally do not sell parts over the counter . The shipping alone would kill you . There has got to be a converter builder near you . As long as they are giving you a warranty , you will be golden . The aftermarket has better parts inside their converters including the friction plate on the lock up clutch
Are you planning to turn your SLU solenoid up 1/4 turn . Some guys who have the adjustment on the solenoid , turn the screw in by 1/4 . This creates a firmer lock up application but no more than 1/4 of a turn
Its something guys do when they experience a mild torque converter shudder when the fluid is depleted .
The converter shudder you have will take out the teeth in your mouth . Thats a bad bad shudder in the video . Not even Lubeguard will take care of that one

 

Thank you, that will help a lot! Frankly, my first worry is if the bell housing will clear the body when removing and how hard those top bolts will be to get at LOL.. The last trans I pulled to leave a memory was on a Chevy S10 w/4l60

You brought up a good question about the SLU sol. I've read this at least 1x before and considered it might be something to try? I'm still looking for a video or pic on doing this.. if you have something you can share?
Finally, the TPS - before I go head first into this (and it should be confirmed afterwards anyway, as it may have caused the failed conv.), would there be any sense in confirming it's operation? I don't have any DTC's.. but from memory, I thought I saw the TPS at 18 deg closed throttle on my scanner. I'd have to recheck, but I assumed it was either normal or my scanner is just not accurate... I don't have any faith in it at all.

BTW - my parts guy is supposed to contact Kingomatic today

 

I don't have time to read through all the posts right now but I did watch the video that you posted with the coins rattling. This sounds very similar to what just happened on my work truck, a 2004 tacoma. One day last week it just started getting horrible shakes around 30-55mph. Below/above those speeds were fine though. Ended up being the u-joints. Just sharing my experience, not sure if that's been looked at yet. Hopefully you get to the bottom of it soon!

 

Glad you got yours fixed with simple u joints. Mine doesn't have quite the same vibration.. a driveline vib is 'typically' there at a given speed, regardless of what gear you are in. That's how you decide if it's powertrain or driveline (a u joint / tire vib might even be there on decel). Mine is only during TCC lock up, at engagement. Never on decel, can be eliminated by tapping the brakes (disengages lock up), and only hot.
However... I've learned a long time ago that 'what should be' isn't always what it is. I could tell you many stories of problems I've diagnosed over the years.. the best one being a 3.0L engine crankshaft in a 3.2L engine (Acura), straight from the factory!!!! That one was fun lol. I'll be sure to check my u joints when the shaft comes off, but I am 99.9% sure that joints are not the issue I'm dealing with.

 

Just a quick update - I have not forgotten about the post!
I only just got my new t/conv last night. I finally was able to source one from King-o-matic.
I also got a new filter and oil... but I was stuck buying a Castrol product as the Toyota dealer here doesn't have and can't get T-IV.

Hopefully, this goes well!
Thanks again @gearcruncher

 

Phew... Now the hard part... Assembly!

 

Just make sure you get the converter in the transmission correctly, when your bolting the transmission up to the engine you should always be able to turn the converter, if it won't turn somethings not right.

 

So I hit a snag - is the converter the same for a 3.4l?


Just noticed the sticker on the box!
My truck is a 2.7L

@gearcruncher - any ideas? King-o-matic is supposed to get back to me today.

 

My parts guy confirmed with Kingomatic - same T/conv for 3.4 and 2.7L engines... back to work!

 

IT'S alive
new converter, filter and u joint. Filling the mission up now. No extra parts, no leaks, no abnormal noise. Just like it was supposed to work lol
Going to be close to 10L to fill it... pushing the 9th in now, still a little low.
I prefilled the converter with almost a litre, everything has gone smoothly.

Won't be able to road test tonight, but we'll head out tomorrow after work. HOPING THIS WORKS!!!!
Thanks again for all the support from the group.

 

Couldn't resist.... I drove it.
The good news - the vibration is GONE! It shifts perfectly and the awful vibes from before are no longer present... however -
Either I'm tuned into it, or there's still something.

I know exactly where and how to drive it to induce the vibe. I can still hear the engine/exh "shudder"??? I don't even know how to qualify it.
Where the truck used to vibrate, there's a definitely still something that sounds like the vibration. Is it normal lock up sound? Or, is my problem going to come back in the future?
Am I being paranoid?

Going to take it up the highway tomorrow and see if anything else has changed. It used to hunt between 3/4 and lock up on a few hills, and it had the shudder/vibe when shifting to 4th at 60mph.

 

Just re-visiting this post now .
Great job fixing up the converter shudder . That was by far the worst vibration I have seen at Tacoma World .
Now that we know the clutch inside the converter is good , you can go through your diagnostic list that you used in your first post to determine where the cause of your original converter failure may been originated .
With the lift kit , check your drive line angles now that the converter is good .
With over size tires on that critter , a slight misfire within the engine under load could be a major contributor .