Abnormal front tire wear !st Gen, 5 lug, RWD

I have come across a puzzling problem with my 94 extra cab 2WD, bought used with 75K miles. The front suspension is pretty rusty, and am looking at replacing a lot of it. We are in the snow belt, so a lot of salt damage. I already had to put a patch in the driver side frame just behind the cab. I had to buy new tires about 30K miles ago (at 130K mileage) as the old tires had worn on the inside edge. I put on some 70K mile tires and had it aligned, and they have about 30K on them now. The truck now has about 165K. My mechanic is saying that the abnormal tire wear is from worn suspension parts, but the problem existed with the prior set of tires back prior to 130K miles. That seems a little premature for the suspension to be that bad to wear the tires like this. I have had it aligned at least 3 times in the past 5 years at different shops. The passenger side tire is wearing on the inner edge with a "washboard"" type of wear. The driver side tire is wearing smooth, but has worn down past the wear bars on the inner edge only. It has essentially worn out a pair of 70K mile tires in 30K miles, but only on the inside edge. I use my truck as a truck, not a trinket, so I put some helper springs on the rear when I bought it to help with loads. Those springs raised the back end 3-4 inches. Would that be enough to throw off the front end geometry, and if so, why was it not corrected when it was aligned? I am seeing some hints that alignment shops no longer include caster/camber adjustment with an alignment. There is no evidence of a past collision that I can see. I am not real enthused about loading up the parts cannon without being sure that it is suspension wear that is the culprit. Anybody have any thoughts? Thanks!

 

Do you receive the sheet with the before and after alignment specs?

Post it if you do.

 

Thanks for the reply Bill. I checked my records and apparently I did not receive any paperwork with the (recent) alignments. I do have paperwork from one alignment from 2019 which would have been about the time I put on the new set of tires. The mileage was 110K, and the set of tires that we took off had the same abnormal wear pattern as the new set has. So this truck was wearing tires abnormally at around 100K miles. As I said, I bought the truck used, so somebody could have "clocked" the speedo, but it did not appear to have abnormal use at the time. I purchased it with around 75K on it. Something is not adding up, I need to keep digging. Maybe a trip to the alignment shop that did the most recent (11-23) alignment would be in order. That alignment was done in November of 2023 after replacing the rack and tie rod ends. It just seems foolish to throw a bunch of parts at it without knowing why it is doing what it is doing. I have been driving Toyota pick-ups since 1972 (Hi-Lux), and have never seen one wear like this. While I have your attention, I have another question: Is it feasible to either clean up or replace (with good used) the upper and lower control arms and install new bushings and ball joints? It appears that the arms themselves, would not wear other than corrosion. I am leery of aftermarket arms which may not be exact replacements. If I did that, I would go ahead and replace the wearable parts with OEM (bushings and ball joints.) New OEM arms are not available and even if they were would be too costly to put on this old truck. The knuckles/spindles and wheel bearings need to be replaced as well. I don't know if those are still available in OEM. The original hubs should still be OK. Thanks for any thoughts you can share with me. Chip

 

Routine maintenance, including tire rotations and tire pressure checks all play a role in tire wear. It's helpful to determine what abnormal wear you're seeing and start searching for a cause there.

https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-wear-patterns

https://www.bridgestonetire.com/learn/maintenance/tire-alignment/

As for the routine maintenance, basics need to be covered. Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Outer and Inner Tie Rods, suspension including worn coil springs and shocks. If you're wheel bearings are having issues then those too.

Unless you've sustained damage to the actual control arm or steering knuckle, then there is no reason to replace them. Control arm bushings could and probably need to be addressed but replacing the actual control arm (be it upper or lower) might not be as critical as some make it out to be. Sure, removing those bushings can be challenging but there are numerous videos on control arm bushing replacement. Totally possible to remove and replace yourself, just hit up the search feature here or youtube.

I would start with diagnosing and centering in on your tire wear pattern and then go from there. Alignment reports are a must as it helps you to see where you are at but trying to find a report from years past isn't going to be helpful. Look at the wear pattern, check possible causes and repair then do an alignment check. Any good shop will check and report on your suspension/steering components (if worn) as part of the alignment service. Trick is to find an alignment shop that doesn't get you in and out with just setting toe.

 

Hey Mike, Thanks for the reply. The two links that you provided on tire wear were very helpful. It appears that the inner edge tire wear that I am seeing is considered due to improper alignment. My original suspicions! What has had me puzzled is the fact that this abnormal wear was occurring with only 100K miles, which is unusual for Toyota. In my experience, the factory components last well beyond 100K miles on Toyota. Then the fact that I have had several "alignments" done and the wear persisted, was even more puzzling. Your thoughts about the "in and out" shops comes in to play here. For safety sake, at the current 165K miles, the suspension should be gone through to make sure it is safe, especially because I load it up and go. You have confirmed my suspicions that what has likely occurred is a concert of errors some intentional, and some possibly by accident. I have had a rash of incompetent mechanics in the past few years, and this looks like another go around of that. The worst one: I had struts replaced on a Honda Accord, and the tech put the wishbone on backwards on one side resulting in the outer drive shaft boot being destroyed. That little fiasco cost me over $2000 in addition to what I paid for the struts. When I went back to complain, the first appointment they had was two weeks out. I went somewhere else! I don't know if it is just in our area, but it seems like there are a lot of repair businesses hiring marginally competent employees and turning them loose to wreak havoc on customers vehicles. At 76 years old, I am no longer able to crawl around on the ground doing my own repairs, I have to rely on others to do them. Then the fact that "insurance regulations" prevent the vehicle owner from watching the repairs makes it even more frustrating. It seems like everything is driving us to purchase overpriced over-engineered new vehicles to avoid the repair hassles. Thanks to everyone for taking the time to comment, I appreciate it!

 

Washboard tire wear is worn out bushings or ball joints. I could see that affecting the toe as well, resulting in that inside tire wear.

 

Chancey
Wear pattern looks similar to this?

 

Yes, that is exactly what it looks like. I have concluded that the problem is worn control arm bushings, ball joints, and wheel bearings (or a combination thereof.) The problem is: I recently had a $3000 front suspension rebuild (prompted by the mis-installed wishbone) on an old. low mileage (100K), Accord, and it is now not drive-able. It pulls (left) into the oncoming traffic and won't recenter after a turn; turning is too stiff. You have to crank it to turn, then crank it back to center. So three grand for a large boat anchor. I don't think it was the mechanic who did the repairs, I think it was either that the alignment shop was incapable of fixing the problem (pulling left), or the aftermarket parts were not as "exactly OE" as they thought (stiff steering). I am trying to sort this out, as I don't need another boat anchor, I don't even have a boat! I am beginning to think that the previous owner did a little manipulation on the odometer and the truck has more miles on it, than what is showing. Maybe the control arm bushings just wear out with age, but ball joints and wheel bearings, probably don't. It supposedly only had highway use, no off-road or anything. It is a passenger car with a bed (4 cyl, auto, rwd.) Either I need to figure out how to resurrect this truck in some useful form, or go back to my trailer behind a sedan. I used a trailer for years, but I sure like the truck better. Unfortunately, you cannot help me with that decision, but you did help me to define the problem. I really appreciate all who took the time to respond, You have shown light in the darkness. Thank you friends!

 

I would start with replacing the wheel bearings, then go to ball joints, and then bushings. Just buy some cheapie tires and rotate them often until you get everything replaced.

 

Kinda good news then(cheap/3 bolts)

bad shock(s)

shock has no recoil
So driving down Hwy, wheel/tire starts bouncing up and down. Over time makes those washboard/cupping marks

lemme find that link…..

 

Now worn shock/strut is the #1 reason
But
Like other members have mentioned many other causes (bushes/bearings/balancing/etc)

 

The shocks are definitely bad too, both front and rear. I had planned to replace them as well. I am negotiating with a friend (in the Ag repair business) to take the front end apart, and give me time to go through the parts and salvage the arms, if possible, or buy good used on eBay. I need to have them off so I can measure them to be sure I am getting the right replacements. I will then de-rust everything and paint with industrial enamel, and have friend reassemble. My plan is to replace: ball joints, bushings, wheel bearings, shocks, and knuckles (if needed). My plan is to go OE on everything except the knuckles, which are no longer available. The coil springs are no longer available either, so I will have to consider what to do there. Aftermarket are available. Do Toyota coil springs have age/wear issues? Can you offer any help there? The bearings are sealed units, so should be able to reuse the hubs after a good cleaning. Just press in new bearings, also available OE. I should have a good truck for a while. I love these little trucks, as I said, My first was a 1972 HiLux 4spd, no bells or whistles and for short people only. At 6'1" I "sort of" fit, but I was a lot younger then! I have an 08, but like the older ones better than the RAM-ified newer ones. This 04 is my worker. I have an 01, but it has seen better days and is dedicated to being hitched to my 16' trailer (good for REALLY short haul only at low speed.) My 89 (bought new) has frame issues, over a quarter of a million miles, and needs a clutch. I gave the 96 to a needy friend. All totaled, I have probably gone a couple million miles in Toyota pick-ups in my lifetime. Probably another million in their cars (first was 1969 Corona.) I can honestly say, they have always been ready when I was. This 04 is still a runner, but I don't want to risk hurting someone, so it is sitting until I get it back to safe condition. Wish I had kept the 1976 Land Cruiser! Hey, nice talking to you guys, and thanks for the help and for taking time to answer! Wish I had the Internet 50 years ago! Thanks, Chip

 

ON the 5lug rwd, the front suspension is really a car suspension.. MacPherson strut.

Big difference between the 6lug twin wishbone front and its 5lug little brother.

All that stuff wears faster on the 5lugs......especially the front thrust wheel bearings...

Fortunately the 5lugs are a breeze to work on.

Rubber suspension parts age attached to time, not milage.
But abuse or lack of maintenance can speed things up.

From highschool rod days....if you jack up rear end....the front starts to age twice as fast....
just a fact......

 

Og Traction Bars FTW OSilver!!!!^^^^

 

That's funny....I used to have a pair of those on a jacked up capri....

My cousin called it 'The cockroach'


whole front end was shot/wore out within a couple years.

 

Look into your service records before throwing parts at the truck.

My 2003 crew cab 4x4 ate up tires exactly like that with cupping/scalloping if the tires were not rotated religiously every say 10k miles. I argued with a mechanic about that when they claimed it was bad shocks on front.

Back story there- THAT EXACT SHOP had just put 4 brand new bilsteins on the truck. I had just had the tire shop rotate the tires front to back the previous weekend.

As previously mentioned check your air pressure.

Tip: when you bring your truck to have tires rotated get in habit of marking tires with chalk or sharpie marker so the shop doesn't bill you without actually doing the work.

 

WOW! Those traction bars look amazingly like the "helper" springs that I installed. The springs mount over the top of the rear axle to each end of the stock spring set with modified U bolts (essentially, shackles.) What you are saying about raising the rear and increasing front suspension wear makes sense; raising would shift the effect of impacts up and into the suspension, rather than a more glancing blow, and tendency to hop over the impact if the truck was running level. I remember, when I got the truck, checking with a spring shop and they wanted a fortune to add an extra leaf. Actually, I had planned to put a toolbox topper on the truck that is on my 89. The topper flattened the back springs on the 89, over time, so I put the helpers on to avoid this. Then I never changed the topper over. If I had moved the topper, the truck would have been back to normal level on the rear and probably would not have had the wear. So it looks like if I replace the worn parts, and remove those springs, that would be an acceptable fix. I don't load the truck to capacity very often, it is mostly just transportation not a beast of burden. When I first posted, I knew virtually nothing about suspensions, now I know the anatomy, and have a lot better understanding of how it functions. Thanks to all of you for sharing your wisdom. I only have to replace the front tires, as the rears are still good with a lot of tread. One other question if you will indulge me: We used to rotate tires in an X pattern (pre-radial on bias plys), why do we go front to back on radials? Again, thank you all!