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ABS Delete 2001-2004 Tacoma

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by davidpick, Jun 8, 2015.

  1. Jun 8, 2015 at 9:19 PM
    #1
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] NWXPDTN

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    While it is possible to defeat the notoriously terrible ABS on first-gen Tacomas simply by pulling the ABS2 (smaller) fuse, that still leaves the ABS pump and plumbing taking up valuable engine bay space. Of course, the engine bay is a great place to relocate a winch controller, add a second battery or auxiliary fuse block or any number of other modifications/additions.

    For me, I wanted to add a second battery, along with my winch solenoid, over the passenger fender well. I didn't like the idea of running dual batteries in the stock location -- as that seems like far too much weight concentrated in an area not designed to hold that much.

    Thus, it became apparent that the disabled ABS pump and plumbing needed to go. With the help of JBerry813 and a lot of Googling, I've come up with my solution.


    Solution:
    There are two ports coming from the brake master cylinder (MC). The one closest to the front of the truck exits and goes to a 3-way "T" on a bracket just below the MC. Currently, that "T" then splits off to the ABS module. After the ABS delete, that "T" will serve both driver and passenger front brake calipers.

    The rear port on the MC will go via 8" custom brake line directly to the Wilwood proportioning valve (PV). The PV will be mounted in the engine bay near the MC (you could mount it in line along the frame rail under the truck, but I prefer the engine bay for longevity and keeping it clean). After exiting the PV, the fluid will travel via 30" custom line to 1 of the existing hard brake lines serving the rear axle.

    The ABS pump will be removed, as well as the brake lines going from MC to ABS pump and from the ABS pump to the various connections.

    The factory load-sensing proportioning valve (LSPV) will be removed entirely and the custom 8" brake line will go from the hard line on the frame rail and attach directly to the flex line that feeds the rear axle. The second hard brake line on the frame rail (the "return" line from the LSPV) will be removed entirely, as it is no longer needed.


    Parts list (~$200):
    Front driver brake line (from a 1996 non-ABS Tacoma): P/N 47313 - $20
    Front passenger brake line (from a 1996 non-ABS Tacoma): P/N 47312 - $30
    Wilwood proportioning valve: P/N 260-8419 - $40
    Custom brake lines - ~$100
    • 8" - Male 10mmx1.0 swivel fitting --> Male 3/8"-27 NPT swivel fitting (MC to Wilwood proportioning valve)
    • 30" - Male 3/8"-27 NPT swivel fitting --> Male 10mmx1.0 swivel fitting (Wilwood proportioning valve to rear hard brake line)
    • 8" - Female 10mmx1.0 swivel fitting --> Male 10mmx1.0 swivel fitting (bypasses factory LSPV on rear axle)
    32oz DOT 3 brake fluid - $6
    Teflon tape - $4 (optional)


    Reference:
    1996 Tacoma brake part numbers
    1996 Tacoma brake line diagram


    BEFORE WE BEGIN:
    Ensure you have necessary parts, tools, and skills/knowledge to perform this modification. Braking systems are essential to safe operation. I will not be liable for any issues or damage caused by improper completion of this modification. If you are unsure about any step, please consult a professional mechanic.

    This writeup assumes a certain level of mechanical expertise and experience. For example, if you have never bled your own brakes, I highly recommend you DO NOT perform this modification by yourself.


    Another note: This project is messy. You will definitely need simple green or another quality degreaser on hand for cleanup. Keep in mind that brake fluid is extremely hard on paint and other finished surfaces. Be careful where this stuff goes.


    Process:
    1. Empty the master cylinder. Easiest way I’ve found is with a large syringe or a turkey baster or the like.
    2. Disconnect the rearward hardline coming from the master cylinder.
    3. Disconnect the forward-facing and passenger-facing port hardline from the "T" fitting below the master cylinder. Leave the short hardline that goes from the forward master cylinder port to the driver-facing port on the "T".
    4. In the driver’s side front wheel well, remove the rubber engine protection flap to allow access to the brake fittings. There should be 3 fittings in a row attached to the frame. The forward most fitting is for the driver’s front brake. The middle and rear fittings are the two lines that feed the back axle. Undo all of these fittings. Leave the brackets and the lines attached to the frame, just loosen and undo the hardlines feeding down to the fittings.
    5. In the passenger’s side front wheel well, remove the rubber engine protection flap to allow access to the brake fitting. There should be 1 fitting attached to the frame. Undo this fitting. Same as the last step.
    6. Unbolt the ABS pump.
    7. Using tin snips or some other strong cutters, cut sections of the brake tubing running to/from the ABS pump to make it easier to remove. You might be able to pull the whole thing out in one piece, but there was no way I was getting that rat’s nest out without cutting it to bits. Your mileage may vary. Note: I did not disconnect any lines from the ABS pump itself, just cut the lines into about 1.5-2 ft sections.
    8. Install the new driver’s side front brake line from the forward-facing port on the "T" to the front fitting on the driver’s side frame rail. Torque to manufacturer’s specifications. Apply teflon tape on the threads if desired.
    9. Install the new passenger’s side front brake line from the passenger-facing port on the "T" to the fitting on the passenger’s side frame rail. Torque to manufacturer’s specifications. Apply teflon tape on the threads if desired. You may want to reuse some of the brackets for the old brake lines that were along the firewall seam to support the new passenger side line.

    The front is now done! On to the rear.

    1. Drop the spare tire to make room to work.
    2. Undo the LSPV from the two brake lines coming into it that run along the frame rail.
    3. Undo the hard brake line that runs from the LSPV to the flexible line that feeds the rear axle. Leave the flexible line in place. The new short custom line is going to run from one of the factory hardlines along the frame rail to the flexible line that runs down to the rear axle.
    4. Completely unbolt and remove the LSPV from the rear axle and the frame rail.
    5. Install the new custom line from one of the frame rail lines to the flexible line. Torque to manufacturer’s specifications. Apply teflon tape on threads if desired.
    6. Back in the engine bay, we need to assemble our manual PV. Connect the 8" custom line from the rear MC port to the "In" port on the Wilwood PV. Connect the 30" custom line from the "Out" port on the PV to the other end of the frame rail line fitting in the driver’s side front wheel well. ENSURE YOU ARE CONNECTING TO SAME LINE AS YOUR BYPASS IN THE REAR. One of the two lines along the frame rail will be completely unused and can be removed.
    7. Verify all fittings are tightened correctly and completely.

    The parts have now all been installed. Now, it is time to bleed the brakes and adjust the PV. You will need at least one other person to do this job unless you have speed bleeders (might be a worthwhile investment!).

    Make sure the PV is opened 100% (no reduction) before bleeding the brakes to speed the process along (ask me how I know!). Bleed the brakes starting with the passenger rear (the farthest away from the MC), working your way to the closest line to the MC (driver’s front). Once you have the brakes bled to your satisfaction, it’s time for some test runs and then adjusting the PV.

    The PV should be adjusted until the front brakes lock up just before the rear brakes lock. Keep in mind that different driving surfaces, atmospheric conditions and payloads will require adjustment and fine-tuning. But a sensible person like you is aware of that!

    Honestly, it’s a fairly straightforward process if you sit down and think about it, but I hope this writeup helps get your mind around this process. Unfortunately I didn’t grab any photos during the project due to time constraints, I hope to add pics of the completed process over the next few days.

    Feel free to comment and ask questions.
     
    mayday, Mulepadre and MindFork like this.
  2. May 11, 2016 at 7:32 AM
    #2
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    This is awesome. After recent discussion in the "What did you do today thread" this is exactly what I was looking for.

    Also an update I believe is that Front Range Offroad now sells a proportioning valve kit. Not sure how much this changes your write up, but here it is:

    http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/proportioning-valve-kit/
     
  3. May 11, 2016 at 7:36 AM
    #3
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    Also if you have photos please post them! I'm a visual learner. :wave:
     
    ValtacoSR5 likes this.
  4. Nov 7, 2016 at 10:36 AM
    #4
    DJB1

    DJB1 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, photos would be super helpful.
     
  5. Nov 19, 2016 at 8:28 AM
    #5
    Bobert14

    Bobert14 .

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    Not sure if I'm missing something obvious, but why is the LSPV being removed? Is it necessary or personal preference?
     
  6. Nov 19, 2016 at 8:30 AM
    #6
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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    stock
    Why is there no pictures! :mad:
     
  7. Nov 19, 2016 at 2:36 PM
    #7
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] NWXPDTN

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    Sorry fellas, I forgot about this thread! I'll have to work on photos...
     
  8. Nov 19, 2016 at 2:37 PM
    #8
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] NWXPDTN

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    For me, the stock LSPV had essentially stopped working due to age and corrosion. For simplicity, I opted to go to a manual valve in the engine bay at the same time as re-plumbing the hard lines to remove the ABS pump
     
  9. Nov 19, 2016 at 5:13 PM
    #9
    Bobert14

    Bobert14 .

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    Gotcha, that makes sense. I was trying to figure out if there was a brake line from the LSPV that plugged into the ABS pump that I was missing. I had to replace the LSPV with a manual valve for the same reason on my '85 crawler, but I'll try to leave on the Taco if I can. One less thing to do with at the moment haha.
     
  10. Nov 29, 2016 at 5:40 PM
    #10
    Bobert14

    Bobert14 .

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    Where did you get your non-ABS brake lines from? I'm having a heck of a time finding somewhere to order them through. Sorry about the questions. Eager to ditch that damn ABS pump to free up room for one of those Bussman fuse boxes.
     
  11. Nov 29, 2016 at 7:00 PM
    #11
    Basikbiker

    Basikbiker Well-Known Member

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    Usually you gotta make em if they are hardlines
     
  12. Nov 29, 2016 at 7:18 PM
    #12
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] NWXPDTN

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    The non-ABS hard line part numbers are listed in the original post. If you're keeping the factory LSPV you won't need to have any other brake lines fabbed up.
     
  13. Feb 2, 2017 at 7:09 AM
    #13
    1stgenyota2014

    1stgenyota2014 Well-Known Member

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    Do you still have pics for this write up? I think I've got it about figured out to do this on my '04 but pics would be a plus. Also, would it take that much extra to run lines into the cab to have the PV inside? That would pretty cool.
     
  14. Feb 2, 2017 at 7:25 AM
    #14
    Basikbiker

    Basikbiker Well-Known Member

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    My doors are the only stock things left besides the headlights
    I'm a second gen taco but u get the idea

    IMG_0639.jpg
    IMG_0640.jpg
     
  15. Jun 17, 2017 at 9:54 PM
    #15
    Greensystemsgo

    Greensystemsgo 1 owner with clean car fox.

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    I feel like this is applicable to all first gens? How do you plan to handle your abs light, resistor or ignore it/pull bulb?

    This is what I was looking for, thankyou.
     
  16. Jun 18, 2017 at 4:49 AM
    #16
    davidpick

    davidpick [OP] NWXPDTN

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    Thanks! It should be a similar/identical process for all first gens.

    I pulled the ABS warning light from the dash cluster quickly after purchase when the abs pump began malfunctioning and kicking the light on.
     
  17. Jun 18, 2017 at 11:55 AM
    #17
    DJB1

    DJB1 Well-Known Member

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    @davidpick, when you get a moment would you post a few photos of your master cylinder and wilwood proportioning valve? Thanks!
     
  18. Jun 19, 2017 at 8:48 AM
    #18
    Mulepadre

    Mulepadre Mulepadre

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    Nice work David!
     
  19. Aug 29, 2017 at 12:06 PM
    #19
    Greensystemsgo

    Greensystemsgo 1 owner with clean car fox.

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    For anyone curious, the part numbers are;

    47312-04050 - Passenger - 33.53 MSRP
    47313-04070 - Driver - 20.38 MSRP
     
  20. Apr 23, 2018 at 11:23 PM
    #20
    IEatPieLeftHanded

    IEatPieLeftHanded IEatPieLeftHanded

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    @davidpick Any change that you could provide a link to where your purchased the three fittings?
    • 8" - Male 10mmx1.0 swivel fitting --> Male 3/8"-27 NPT swivel fitting (MC to Wilwood proportioning valve)
    • 30" - Male 3/8"-27 NPT swivel fitting --> Male 10mmx1.0 swivel fitting (Wilwood proportioning valve to rear hard brake line)
    • 8" - Female 10mmx1.0 swivel fitting --> Male 10mmx1.0 swivel fitting (bypasses factory LSPV on rear axle)
    Im looking for them online and Im not 100% certain that I would be purchasing the correct parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
     

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