ABS Speed Sensor left front 2009 toyota tacoma 4 cyl 2 wheel drive

Hello

I'm in the process of replacing the ABS Speed sensor and when taking out the old one the long part of the old sensor broke off and remains in the hub. I'm wondering how to take the hub off to get a clear shot at that hole and remaining plastic. How do I remove the hub at this point - I have the rotor and caliper off..

thank you.

 

Looks like the front of a 5 lug? Comes off same as 4x4 minus removing the axle nut I believe. Should be 4 14mm bolts holding the hub to the spindle.

 

I think the bolts on the 4x4 are 17mm
Not sure in the 5 lug.

 

How do I remove it -

where are the four 4 by 14mm bolts? also does that center piece come off some how by maybe locking the hub and turning it counter clockwise -

 

Thank you for the help

here's front and back the only bolts i see are the ones that look like theyre holding that sheild on

 

You have the press in design hub bearing, you can try drilling the rest of the sensor out just be careful.
Otherwise you will probably have to get a new hub bearing and have a shop press the old one out, get the sensor out and press the new one in.

 

not good news - how does that sensor go in that hole the whole plastic tapered part presses into the hole? How does it connect or read anything it's sealed plastic or is something suppose to come off>

I was actually thinking of using a reimer hand tool - I shouldn't drill any further than the length of that tapered part - what is below that looks like a small gasket on the tapered part too.

 

Thank you for the help...

 

It doesn’t press in the hole.
There is an o-ring on the sensor that makes it fit “snug”. It will pop in. You’ll feel it when it seats.

Your sensor is stuck because it’s corroded in there. It’s not uncommon on older trucks. Or trucks that see a lot of road salt.

The sensor reads a metal ring with magnetic poles on it. The ring is mounted to the back of the bearing. The sensor doesn’t touch anything.

At this point. All you can do is drill it out and HOPE everything is fine.

Talk about a PITA. Your front sound just as bad as doing a rear. At least you don’t have an axle in the way.

 

The O-Ring is what seals it it is not press fit, what happens is rust forms above the O-Ring and siezes the sensor tight in there. If you can get the rust broken up around the rest of the sensor you may be able to pull it out with a small self tapping screw and some pliers.

The tip of the sensor reads a magnetic disk that is part of the bearing, you don't want to damage that disk or the bearing will have to be replaced for the sensor to work properly.

 

Thank you - yeah by press - I meant just pressing with my thumb - not the best design - thank you for how it works that makes sense - so the sensor basically reads the magnetic poles through the end of that plastic piece - I'll carefully drill it and either try to blow the pieces out or vacumn it out wonder what would be better? I talked to some junk yards and they said they can't get those sensors out without breaking - I'll keep you posted - hope this is the issue the wire on top looks good - and the check engine had the skid mark and the code was a left front ABS Speed Sensor - we'll see...

 

Yea unfortunately in areas where they salt the roads it's very common for those (and everything else) to corrode tight from rust, where I'm at we rarely have that issue.

 

one follow up before I try in the next few days - Once I hopefully get the hole drilled out should I put some grease or bulb lube on that plastic piece or would that be counter productive?

 

Put some around the o ring and the top part to help prevent rust and help it slide, don't put any on the tip.

 

Thank you - sounds good.

 

In order to get to everything if it goes south on you. See the below thread about replacement of the front wheel bearing on a 5 Lug Tacoma. It is quite a different beast than the 6 Lug.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...on-a-2-wheel-drive-taco.713329/#post-25377056

The 5 luggers the bearings and seals etc are all pressed into the steering knuckle. You have to remove the steering knuckle disassemble it press out the old and then press in the new.

After you remove the Steering knuckle from the truck follow this:

 

Thank you for sending.

Hopefully I don't have to do that..

I ended up drilling it out and vacummed the debris. I made sure I could see the bearing spinning at the bottom of the hole.

It seemed to go back together ok.

The check engine light was still on - Does it rest automatically? I ended up going to advance and having them check the codes which indicated the left front abs sensor and thermostat - my anti-freeze was down a bit so hoping that's what that was about...

I cleared the check engine light and codes - I'm wondering if it will come back or stay off - my honda - I had to do the same thing and drive it 100 miles before it was in ready mode to go through emissions. That was a knock sensor I had to change almost as fun as this...

Any thoughts on the Check engine light - it also had the skid mark below it?

- it's off now and I've gone 10 miles -

Plan on driving it on highway tonight - to see if it comes back on or stays off..

Thank you for the suggestions...

 

The check engine light is separate from the ABS and traction lights although an engine code can also turn on the traction light depending on the code.

 

Here’s the list for the conditions for the ABS Front Speed Sensor code.

Who wants to be the one to “test” #8?

 

hopefully mi don't have to do any of those tests. The check engine and the skid signal below have both stayed off - for 66 miles sense I added coolant and changed the ABS speed sensor -

The test will be if the truck passes emission testing. If the check engine light is on that wouldn't test so I'm good there - It just needs to be in a (Ready state) to allow testing. With my Honda the check engine light was out but it indicated not ready - I drove it 60 miles and 20 minutes on highway at 60 mph and it became ready and passed. Does each state do something different ?