AC Clutch Failure - How to fix! (blinking light, squealing)

I went from underneath. Hardest part was leaning up to see what I was doing with the snap ring. I did loosen my shroud just so I could slide it slightly out of the way.

 

Yeah I got some deep creep, i'll spray it a few times prior.

 

That's what i'm gonna try. Put the front up on jack stands, remove driver side tire and skid plate and go from there.

 

here ya go https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYQtP2pvpkM

 

from what ive noted in the video I posted is first the guy did all the work from underneath, second he used 3 spacers to get(toyota spec gap) .030-.060mm gap, (the original OP stated he used 4 new shims at .065mm) three the video guy says to use loc-tite on the 8mm bolt(very important). also the video guy replaced the complete clutch assembly pulley/magnet/clutch, in your case you will only replace the clutch, in the video guys truck was a 2014 Tacoma and it showed that the complete assembly was replaced and that the bearings were also shot in the pulley so he did right replacing the whole assembly. also I noted that a lot of people are getting junk yard clutchs so they don't spend $500 bills on a new OEM one not sure if that would be a mistake, it clearly shows that a 2014 Tacoma had completely shot AC clutch assembly already in 2016, not sure the junkyard one would hold up as long as a new one.

 

I had 3 shims/spacers on the old clutch and I reused them on the new one. I had a feeler gauge but didn't even bother with it.

 

Hey Chris, what were your exact symptoms when this thing took a crap on ya? TomTwo got me worried it's the compressor (I know this is a distinct possibility). Fingers crossed it isn't!!

 

Yeah I am wondering if I should have just ordered the whole clutch. I have a shop giving it a look now, hopefully they won't just BS me and tell me it's the compressor if it isnt. The clutch hub is only a 20 minute fix anyway so if it doesnt work i'm only out 50 bucks. A drop in the bucket if my ac system is shot and i am going to be spending 1k+

 

I never had a squeal, just the blinking a/c light...so I assumed that mine wasn't the clutch or compressor and testing the magnetic clutch confirmed that.

 

i think you should go ahead as u planned, u ordered a EBAY clutch that's coming already, I would at the very least replace the clutch myself, and then see if that does the trick, also noted in that video you WONT have to remove the drivers side tire and flap that was just for camera/filming purposes and u can leave on the serpentine belt since your just doing the clutch, so its basically remove skid plate, jack up truck, jack stands, remove 8mm bolt with or without a clutch hold down tool, the dude in the vid said he borrowed a magnetic type clutch tool? from autozone or vice grips, pull off clutch don't loose the factory shims, reuse factory shims on new clutch, replace 8mm bolt with loc-tite, torque to 10ft/pds, hopefully done. if it conitinues to screech then you will need a full assembly either new $563 or a used junkyard $70-$100 one and you could probably do the labor yourself.

 

or Plan B >https://www.amazon.com/AC-Compresso...rd_wg=ped3N&psc=1&refRID=D2V6AJFARSWV2CXB5FQN

 

"(toyota spec gap) .030-.060mm gap"
Just so you guys know, that gap is important. Too tight, clutch rubs all the time. Too loose and clutch slips. Both will cause the clutch and the compressor seal to overheat. Seal gone, freon gone, new compressor time.

 

Yeah, i plan to proceed with the hub replace ent. May have been more prudent to buy the whole thing since i doubt ebay takes returns. One other thing, when i hit ac button rmps do increase, then drop when the light starts blinking. No squeals or belt screeches.

 

heres another cheaper kit, I like the reviews but one guy seems to have an issue but the majority have good results, it comes with all new clips and hardware too, if doing just the clutch doesn't cure it these kits seem to be a good alternative to expensive oem parts. https://www.ebay.com/p/AC-Compresso...acoma-05-14/1361631574?iid=222056646012&rt=nc

 

Awesome, thanks! Ill try this if the hub doesnt work. I think if the compressor was seized up. The rpms wouldn't increase every time i hit the ac button?

 

maybe you can return the first clutch part for a refund if it don't workout and get the full kit, hopefully it works with just the new clutch. I was looking at mine and I can see why these clutches wear out even with the AC off and the defroster position on or even the floor/defroster position the AC compressor engages and runs that's a lot of engage/disengaging on that part. so far mines quite and looks like the black rubber shit on the clutch doesnt look melted.

 

So what did the shop say?

 

Just got it back. Said seized compressor because they said there was black goo coming out of the front (??) I wanted to ask the tech directly but he already left. Quoted me 1k to replace compressor. ugh

 

that doesn't sound like they troubleshot the parts individually, just saying black goo coming out the front means the compressor is fubared, this is business as usual for dealerships and shops they just say replace everything and they make more money instead of replacing parts they only need to replace. everyone in this thread that posted pictures had the black goo melted even the dude in the video he had black shit protruding. I would try the clutch first if that don't work then maybe let someone do it,if you do it yourself then you can flip the bird to those hustlers.

 

Yeah i kinda agree. From my limited knowledge from reading about this on the internet today, oozing rubber is often indicative of the clutch hub, and the fact that the RPMs spike a bit and the pulley doesnt seize up may point away from the compressor seizing. Ill find out in a few days.