AC Help/Input

Hey Guys!

2013 4.0 Prerunner 194K AC never touched.

Air conditioning felt a bit less cool last week, but our temps in FL have been in the mid 40's to mid 70's, so did not think much about it. Today we were up to 80 and I could really feel the AC was not working as it should.

The Drivers side vent is cold, but the other 3, 2 middle & passenger side are not cold. I checked the cab filter and its clean, no leaves or obstructions. Tested floor, recirc and defrost settings. It seems as though the distribution door is moving and blowing in each settings. AC light comes on as normal.

Just wanted to get some input before I had someone check it - thanks!

 

Sounds like it's low on refrigerant.

 

there is ways to check if blend doors are opening

but at the end of the day. First step in diagnosing an AC concern is a recharge to measure quantity and add UV dye for detecting future potential leaks.

This should be maintenance regardless. No system is sealed perfectly.
an R134a PAG oil mix almost 20 years old is not going to be in as good a shape as new. It collects moisture.

 

You can also install a second cooling fan for the condenser.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/auxiliary-cooling-fan-setup-for-3rd-gen.739128/

 

Varied air temps coming from the vents: Classic low charge symptoms. One of my other vehicles does this, and a re-charge lasts 5-6 years before it occurs again. Select "recirc" and note if it improves a bit. If it does, another sign the charge is low.

 

10yo 200k mi A/C never touched

the r134a is low.

if you recharge it be ready to replace the service port schrader valves that can start leaking during that. Good time to throw stuff like that at it while the system is emptied during recharge.

It’s possible
Question is, is it worth the $400
Folks who did it reported it barely made a difference after if at all

 

@TacoTuesday1

I try to purchase OEM parts and am trying to find the Schrader valve(s) for my 2013 prerunner 4.0 auto.

Do you happen to have an oem part number and are the high and low valves the same size?

 

I had trouble finding the OEM part number when I did mine so ended up getting the Four Seasons part 26783 for my 07. They valve cores were the same on my truck.

But here is a screenshot of a parts manual that shows the partial part number which may help you:

 

This looks like the correct part. Thanks man!

Toyota 88374-04030 Valve, Service
2008-2016 Toyota Tacoma 8837404030
$20.52

 

I don’t remember what weird name they called it
But Oreillys had it, had both the valves high and low big and small
Seemed like a kit any place could theoretically get or listed
It just so happened Oreillys was the only place in town that had it in stock at store to pickup that hour

basically noticed it start leaking (factory) during a recharge almost like the act of the machine knob depressing it had unsettled it to the point of leaking.
Which I haven’t experienced before and believe is a failure of the part. Glad it happened during that recharge with ability to fix it than and there, versus on the road.

 

As just a side note the Schrader Valve internals can be replaced while the system is charged without losing the charge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkPxxUO_40Q

Tools are reasonable too.

https://www.amazon.com/ac-schrader-valve-removal-tool/s?k=ac+schrader+valve+removal+tool

 

Had the system vacuumed, new scrader valves, recharged & dye added today.

AC is blowing cold again and will monitor for any signs of leaks.

Thanks for the help guys!!

 

beyond that not much can be done
-maybe aux fan, though I hear that's little to no improvement
-performing a good cleaning of the front coolers, such as the radiator and condenser, that can be hard to get to (there's a spray wand for this, and foam cleaner)
-potential replacement of said parts, such as condenser while system is empty (they're both kinda cheap)

last time I did that was on an old Audi but that's because the front end was already off and pretty easy to remove (service position) in order to do something else
so taking out the radiator lay on the floor to hose off, and spray the condenser (cold) was accessible. To get years of dirt buildup removed, that basically looked like a fur coat on it reducing effectiveness.
or straightening some fins, but that's not really easy to do and time consuming.

next time I do a recharge I'll probably throw a new condenser at it when it's empty. Maybe radiator of decent brand.
Will check FSM if there's an specs of additional PAG oil to add when component replacing such as condenser. Or, I've heard if it doesn't say to, folks generally just add like an extra 5-10mL max.

according to google, it would be 1oz pag oil for condenser = 30mL, which sounds a bit much. Don't know if they prefill them from factory with some the way compressors are.

 

Doing the UNI, engine & cab filters tomorrow and will include visual/cleaning of the radiator and condenser. Great reminder TT1.

 

early start today

 

What’s gonna happen when it reaches critical mass & then takes after you.

 

I have the flux capacitor set for a low threshold to monitor EM waves. (I think lol)