Ac issues

Hello!
A few years back randomly my ac light started flashing, it was not on at the time. I was driving in icy conditions. Once I got to camp I pulled the relay and fuse and left it. Now I am trying to clean up a few things, this being one of them.

I tested fuses/relays. Next I had someone help and the clutch does not engage when turned on. Next I jumped the low pressure switch. The clutch engaged but didn’t spin, made more of a grunt/struggle sound. That’s where I stopped. I assume either the system slowly leaked? And it’s not allowing it to engage? Doesn’t explain the pump not spinning when jumped though. Is there a way to remove the belt and engage the clutch so I can spin by hand?

I am not dying to have ac but there has been 3-4 times that it would have been nice.
Thanks!

 

Sounds like compressor is seized due to loss of oil (leaking refrigerant also leaks out the oil). And no refrigerant in the system.

 

Have you checked your line pressures?

 

I have not checked the line pressure we have a vac system at work I’ll try to get it hooked up and checked. I assume the loss of refrigerant is the culprit but I’m unsure why all the sudden it happened. It has always worked great, like anything else it’s always works great till it don’t…

 

Low pressure side has no pressure. I took the tension off the belt and can spin the pulley but not the compressor. I’m assuming it’s seized and leaked? Any common failure points where it would leak?

 

If your compressor has not run in a few years I would just replace it and start from there honestly.

 

You’re probably right, what I worry about is did it contaminate everything when it went? Did the compressor seize and force the refrigerant out somewhere? I guess I could put a pump in it, inspect hoses for metal debris and if clean vac/charge it if not than start throwing parts at it….

 

Given the age of the truck, this is normal wear and tear. The leak is most likely from the connections at the condenser or it got hit by a small rock and was holed. Just the evaporator isn't leaking...that's a big job. But we'll assume for now that it's not (only way to know for sure now that the system is down is check the area behind glove box with a UV light).

You should replace: compressor, condenser, o-rings, expansion valve & filter and Schrader valve cores. You may also want to replace the line between condenser and compressor (rubber connection points start leaking over time) and mag clutch if it's bad (but it's probably ok and can be reused). You'll have to flush evaporator and the lines, clean everything out, draw a vacuum, check for leaks then recharge.

Lots of good videos on YouTube and many post on here with lots of great info if you spend a little time searching and reading.

I went through this a couple of years ago. Here is my post where with some photos and tips and there is Excel spreadsheet with a list of parts, prices, tools, labor times, etc: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ac-system-repair-estimate.773689/

 

Thank you for the link, it answered a lot of my questions! ill start digging into the parts cost, was hoping for a quick simple fix. For the trucks purpose I am not sure the cost will be worth it..

 

If you do it yourself, parts are around $800-$900. But you'll need a vacuum pump and AC gauges and flush kit. Unfortunately, when it comes to AC there is no getting around the costs and the band aids never work. By the way, the air dryer is built into the condenser which is why the condenser needs to be replaced as it's not serviceable. And anyway, a condenser that's nearly 20 years needs replacing anyway. Good luck.

 

Ok thanks it’s one of those things I would only use 3 times a year but it would be great those 3 times haha. We have a vacuum/gauge system at work I can use to charge it so I’m good there.

 

I’d want to know if the pressure switch is replaceable like other cars. If so I’ll probably do mine.

Your compressor may be bad. It’s old.
Auto parts stores now sell flush kits in a can.

id say you need to get a machine hooked on to see how much gas you have. Sometimes that’s $100 to do give or take.

don’t get me wrong. I’m all for doing it at home. But I don’t know if there exists a way to do that, or what it is, to precisely know. A professional machine has a scale that reads grams of r134a exactly.

 

I dont know much about AC, but I do know there is UV dye in there from the factory. It stands out pretty easy with a small UV flashlight.

Also, you'll want to pull a vacuum on the system to hopefully suck out as much moisture / contaminants as possible before recharging.

 

I’ll try the uv light and see what I see. The system we have at work takes the big bottles and weighs everything. It’ll charge/vac so I’m covered there.

 

it's typically not put in from the factory. And doesn't last forever.

Dye is something you add during a recent recharge that may be used to check for leaks after. If that's not done, there probably isn't dye to look for.
Machines also run a leak check. To see if it holds vacuum, etc.

 

You can delete the whole system if you don’t want it or the expense of fixing it, but even here in the NW I wouldn’t want to go without it

 

Im pretty sure they do, but I cannot prove that

Its pretty common for manufacturers to add it from the factory now a days

 

@cfcarpenter I see you have a 2005, I originally read that as 2015

You actually may not have UV dye from the factory. I recall mid-second generation was when they started adding it at the factory. Again, I cant prove or disprove that for sure

 

Ah gotcha well I’m pretty darn sure the pump is seized along with the no pressure reading I’d assume it’s toast. Discount ac parts has a whole kit for $340 with a 2 year warranty? I know it’s not factory Toyota parts but that might be worth the gamble?

 

To save money, get an aftermarket condenser and compressor- I got mine from O’Reilly’s and they work very well. Saved more than half of OEM.

Edit: just read your last post and yes, it’s definitely worth a gamble.