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Access cab power rear window installation

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Leggo, Apr 29, 2012.

  1. Apr 29, 2012 at 9:17 PM
    #1
    Leggo

    Leggo [OP] slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Just a few quick photo's to show what I did with BenWa's mod. A quick how to for those who may be interested
    First thing is to remove the rear panel and install this angle aluminum to the cab itself.
    [​IMG]

    second thing is to position the motor and mark the plastic square that I glued to the rear wall of the cab, for the mounting holes. I drilled and tapped them (1/4x20)
    [​IMG]

    On top of the angle aluminum, I mounted a piece of 1x1" aluminum square tubing.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    After locating the cable path's, I reinstalled the rear panel, head rest inserts, notched the passenger insert and reinstalled the sub.

    I forgot to talk about the wiring, I just ran the two wires up the rocker panels to the fuse panel area and installed the switch and add-a-fuse.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I then cut a piece of angle aluminum and glued the bracket to the window, bolted it all together and in works perfectly.

    More detailed instructions
    1. Remove the rear panel and sub.
    2. Cut an 11” long piece of 1 ½ x 1 ½ x1/8” angle aluminum. Drill four 3/16” holes, two at each end, about an inch from each end and about a ¼” from the edge on one side, about ½ ” from the edge on the other
    3. Cut an 11” long piece of 1 x 1” x 1/8” aluminum square tubing and attach that to the angle piece (two holes predrilled 1/2” from the edge, on the angle aluminum) using two ½” #8 self tapping screws.
    4. Use two ½” #8 self tapping hex screws to attach the angle to the cab sheet metal under the rear window frame (centered, using the two holes ¼” from the edge)
    5. Position the motor assembly properly(see photo) and mark the hole positions. Drill and tap the holes ¼”x20 thread.
    6. Glue the plastic square plate to the cabin wall on the passenger side near the vent in the center. Apply the glue to the vertical “ribs” just above the bottom horizontal support. After the glue dries, mount the motor using ¼ x 20 x 1 ¼” SHCS’s
    7. Connect and feed the two wires around to the side and under the rocker panel covers, then forward to the fuse panel area.
    8. Remove the headrest assemblies and the small panels from the back panel section YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO REUSE THE REAR HEAD REST ASSEMBLIES! Position the trac above the aluminum and reinstall the back panel.
    9. Position the trac so that driver side cable runs down existing head rest hole in the insert (reinstall insert).
    10. Then drill two 3/16” holes equally spaced apart thru the trac into the square tubing. Then drill the holes you just made in the trac out to ¼” wide. Tap the two new holes in the tubing ¼” x 20.
    11. Attach the trac to the square tubing using two ¼ x 20 x 1” long SHCS’s.
    12. Mark the head rest insert for the passenger side to accept the cable and notch out with snips, then install insert.
    13. Remove the latch anchor (Base) from the window frame. (2 small Phillips screws). It will have some double sided tape but just pull it away. Cut a 2” x 3” x ¼” x 7 ¼” long angle aluminum (long enough to reach from the trolley plate to the holes in the window bracket supplied in the kit). Mark the 2” side to match up with the predrilled and tapped holes in the window bracket, and then drill two 1/4" holes. Place into position and mark the trolley bolt hole positions on the 3” side. (Drill and tap ¼ x 20).
    14. Bolt all pieces together and mark on the window, the bracket position, with tape over and under. (leaving where to apply the glue between). Remove the bolts from the trolley
    15. Apply glue to the window bracket and position on the window, install all bolts and let set for several hours.
    16. Knock out the blank for the switch and install the add-a-fuse and switch per instructions.
    17. Put in the fuse and try. Congratulations!

    Stock list​
    1 ½ x 1 ½ ” x 1/8” angle aluminum, 11” long.
    2 x 3” x 1/4” angle aluminum, 7 1/4” long.
    1 x 1” x 1/8” Aluminum square tubing, 11” long
    1/2 ” #8 self tapping hex screws (4)
    ¼ x 20 x 1/2 “ SHCS’s (4), SHCS = socket head cap screw
    1/4” x 20 x 1” SHCS’s (2)
    1/4”x 20 x1 1/4” SHCS’s (3)
    ¼” flat washers (9)
    1/4" lock washers (9)



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4lAdTyoyHs&feature=player_embedded
     
  2. Apr 30, 2012 at 1:39 AM
    #2
    Highland Logan

    Highland Logan UBIQUE

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    Icon Stage 2 w/ overload left in, SPC LR UCA, 265/75 16 BFG KO2, front and rear Weathertech floor liners, OEM (Extang) solid fold tonneau, OEM bed mat, OEM front skid plate, OEM billet oil cap, "TOYOYA" tailgate decal
    I like the switch, and it's great that your mod worked out for you, but was there no way to hide that under the rear seat molding?

    Frank
     
  3. Apr 30, 2012 at 6:33 AM
    #3
    Leggo

    Leggo [OP] slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Well BenWa is working on a design that may do just that. He might have more info for you. I took his kit and made it work. I did not want to cut the rear panel at all, so this IS the only way to achieve that with this specific kit. It has grown on me. It gets good reviews when people see it up close.
    BenWa is pretty sharp. I am sure he will accomplish a "hidden" version successfully sometime in the future.
     
  4. Apr 30, 2012 at 6:34 PM
    #4
    Ostrichsak

    Ostrichsak Don't taze me bro!

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    When he does I will be the first one in line to get one. :cool:
     
  5. May 1, 2012 at 7:58 PM
    #5
    Leggo

    Leggo [OP] slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Kenwood HU,Infinity Kappa speakers (x4), Infinity reference tweeters(x2),10" Kicker sub, Box by Subthump, Infinty Five channel amp,DVD anytime bypass, DTRL Mod, Xtang trifecta, Fogs anytime Mod, Bed Mat,Westin running boards, Console vault, Maglite mod, Weathertechs,Autopage remote starter, Power tailgate lock, HID Bi Zenon, Hella Supertones,Rain guards,Rear leaf TSB,Steering shaft TSB, Fisher Homesteader plow, 886 reverse lights mod, Redline Hood struts, Hankook Dynapro ATM LT265/70R17, power sliding rear window, Auto dimming/on anytime Bed lights, Blue Sea fuse panel & 100amp Breaker, de- badged,Rear headrest's removed, imMrYo mirror relocation,Homeroshi grill
    Why wait? you can get one that looks pretty clean at [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]CR Laurence now.[/FONT]
     
  6. May 1, 2012 at 8:04 PM
    #6
    Highland Logan

    Highland Logan UBIQUE

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    Not to jack the thread... but.
    I don't see one for 2005-present Tacoma models (link). Do you say you have one, or know someone who does?

    Frank
     
  7. May 1, 2012 at 8:14 PM
    #7
    Leggo

    Leggo [OP] slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Kenwood HU,Infinity Kappa speakers (x4), Infinity reference tweeters(x2),10" Kicker sub, Box by Subthump, Infinty Five channel amp,DVD anytime bypass, DTRL Mod, Xtang trifecta, Fogs anytime Mod, Bed Mat,Westin running boards, Console vault, Maglite mod, Weathertechs,Autopage remote starter, Power tailgate lock, HID Bi Zenon, Hella Supertones,Rain guards,Rear leaf TSB,Steering shaft TSB, Fisher Homesteader plow, 886 reverse lights mod, Redline Hood struts, Hankook Dynapro ATM LT265/70R17, power sliding rear window, Auto dimming/on anytime Bed lights, Blue Sea fuse panel & 100amp Breaker, de- badged,Rear headrest's removed, imMrYo mirror relocation,Homeroshi grill
  8. May 1, 2012 at 8:35 PM
    #8
    Ostrichsak

    Ostrichsak Don't taze me bro!

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    TRD Supercharger + too much stuff to list. Click sig pic
    Because I'm not spending $700 to have a power rear slider.
     
  9. May 1, 2012 at 9:06 PM
    #9
    drsus

    drsus Well-Known Member

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    stock
  10. May 1, 2012 at 9:19 PM
    #10
    BuzzardsGottaEat

    BuzzardsGottaEat "Pick up some speed.. You'll make it."

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    Just curious of the appeal for an access cab. I get the DC, can't reach it. But I always reach back n open mine in the access. Not putting a great thing down by any means, if it were an option I may have entertained it, just curious.

    What I really want is an entire back window that rolls down like the tundra has :D
     
  11. May 1, 2012 at 9:28 PM
    #11
    Ostrichsak

    Ostrichsak Don't taze me bro!

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    One of my favorite features of my Tundra. Wish the Taco had it. :(
     
  12. May 1, 2012 at 10:07 PM
    #12
    Leggo

    Leggo [OP] slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    I am old.lol I cannot reach back to easily. The full window drop is awesome!
     
  13. May 2, 2012 at 8:35 AM
    #13
    Leggo

    Leggo [OP] slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Oh,.... I understand now.
     
  14. May 2, 2012 at 8:48 AM
    #14
    cgs2k2

    cgs2k2 Ohio Member

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    way to go making it work. that's ingenuity there
     
  15. May 2, 2012 at 12:06 PM
    #15
    Leggo

    Leggo [OP] slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Kenwood HU,Infinity Kappa speakers (x4), Infinity reference tweeters(x2),10" Kicker sub, Box by Subthump, Infinty Five channel amp,DVD anytime bypass, DTRL Mod, Xtang trifecta, Fogs anytime Mod, Bed Mat,Westin running boards, Console vault, Maglite mod, Weathertechs,Autopage remote starter, Power tailgate lock, HID Bi Zenon, Hella Supertones,Rain guards,Rear leaf TSB,Steering shaft TSB, Fisher Homesteader plow, 886 reverse lights mod, Redline Hood struts, Hankook Dynapro ATM LT265/70R17, power sliding rear window, Auto dimming/on anytime Bed lights, Blue Sea fuse panel & 100amp Breaker, de- badged,Rear headrest's removed, imMrYo mirror relocation,Homeroshi grill
    Thanx, I really use and enjoy it a lot. I paid for the slider but rarely used it because I either forgot to open it before getting in or before starting to drive. I have trouble doing it manually while driving most times so this is really nice for me now. Thanx BenWa also.
     
  16. May 2, 2012 at 2:49 PM
    #16
    Ray

    Ray Well-Known Member

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    I'd really like to be able to open the side windows in the access cab. Even just a "pop open" window to allow air to flow through.

    Ray
     
  17. Jun 24, 2012 at 7:10 AM
    #17
    EODTech08

    EODTech08 Well-Known Member

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    Badass! Sub'd
     
  18. Aug 27, 2015 at 8:34 PM
    #18
    Leggo

    Leggo [OP] slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

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    Kenwood HU,Infinity Kappa speakers (x4), Infinity reference tweeters(x2),10" Kicker sub, Box by Subthump, Infinty Five channel amp,DVD anytime bypass, DTRL Mod, Xtang trifecta, Fogs anytime Mod, Bed Mat,Westin running boards, Console vault, Maglite mod, Weathertechs,Autopage remote starter, Power tailgate lock, HID Bi Zenon, Hella Supertones,Rain guards,Rear leaf TSB,Steering shaft TSB, Fisher Homesteader plow, 886 reverse lights mod, Redline Hood struts, Hankook Dynapro ATM LT265/70R17, power sliding rear window, Auto dimming/on anytime Bed lights, Blue Sea fuse panel & 100amp Breaker, de- badged,Rear headrest's removed, imMrYo mirror relocation,Homeroshi grill
     
  19. Aug 27, 2015 at 8:35 PM
    #19
    Leggo

    Leggo [OP] slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

    Joined:
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    Newton,Ma.
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    Kenwood HU,Infinity Kappa speakers (x4), Infinity reference tweeters(x2),10" Kicker sub, Box by Subthump, Infinty Five channel amp,DVD anytime bypass, DTRL Mod, Xtang trifecta, Fogs anytime Mod, Bed Mat,Westin running boards, Console vault, Maglite mod, Weathertechs,Autopage remote starter, Power tailgate lock, HID Bi Zenon, Hella Supertones,Rain guards,Rear leaf TSB,Steering shaft TSB, Fisher Homesteader plow, 886 reverse lights mod, Redline Hood struts, Hankook Dynapro ATM LT265/70R17, power sliding rear window, Auto dimming/on anytime Bed lights, Blue Sea fuse panel & 100amp Breaker, de- badged,Rear headrest's removed, imMrYo mirror relocation,Homeroshi grill
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