Accumulator Delete Kit - SOLD OUT - No More Kits

Mine took 48 minutes approximately

 

Mine was a couple hours, but I was kludging shit together.

 

Mine is a 2nd Gen so YMMV but, FWIW, I spent a few hours on it (thanks to the upper-most flare nut, on the hard-line descending from the master). Without that saga, probably would have been done in half the time.

 

Thanks all for the installation feedback. As this will be the first time messing with the clutch mech on a 3rd gen (did it plenty on my 1st gen), I'm assuming bleeding is done the same way? At the slave cylinder, with a tube going into a clear bottle of clean brake/clutch fluid. Have someone in the driver's seat push down and hold the clutch pedal while I open the bleed valve to let out air/fluid. Close bleed valve and have the driver release the clutch. Repeat steps until no more bubbles are present in the bottle. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is kept full during the process. This all sound about right?

 

That is exactly it, except the pedal will not come off the floor after you close the bleeder. You'll have to manually pull it back up and pump it a couple times to get full pressure back.

Also, remember to connect the upper flare 1st so that the new line self fills with drips out of the existing lines.

 

Parts to make 20 more kits have been ordered. I will be out of the country July 5-17 so get your orders in now to get your kit shipped immediately.

 

Would love to do this mod but I've never bled a clutch line. Price quotes and help?

 

It's a piece of cake. Just follow @Trident904 's instructions or the 1st Post in the ADM thread. Do not use a vacuum bleeder.

 

PM me

 

Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding the brakes. Both are EASY to do, but generally require an assistant to pump the pedal while you crack the valve. (Speed Bleeders can make it a one-person job.)

 

5 Kits left in stock. I will be out of the country the 5th-17th so get your orders in now.

 

4 kits left. Last day to ship is Friday 7/5 before 2pm eastern time. $65 shipped.

 

Thanks man for making the purchase easy and the shipping was fast.

I've haven't installed it yet but I'll get back and post my experience with it soon.

 

Had a quick question...

The instructions state to remove the splash guard, exhaust hanger, and sensor from cat converter. Is it necessary to do these steps? I’m going to do the install tomorrow but to get ahead of it, I took the shield off already. It was a bit tight but had all the right tools to get it done fairly quickly. Do the instructions say to remove these extra bits to make it easier to get the shield off or am I going to run into problems removing the accumulator tomorrow w/these bits still in place?

 

No. Easiest way is to drop the front drive shaft if you can’t do it without removing anything else. The removal of the exhaust bracket is how I did it the first time I did it and it’s a pain in the ass. Try doing it without removing anything, and then drop the drive shaft if you can’t get to it.

 

Exactly this.
You do need to take the splash guard off to get to the accumulator. After that, the hanger, O2, and drive shaft are up to you and your comfort level under and maneuverability under the vehicle.
I was able to do it only removing the splash guard, on an un-lifted vehicle with stock wheels and tire. YMMV.

 

Thanks all. I think I can get at everything without removing the extras.

 

2 kits left and after 2pm tomorrow, I’m out of the country until the 17th.

 

Amended post.
Once I had a chance to think about the issue (over a cold adult beverage) I realized the correct course of action should have been to PM Trident first and ask for his opinion. My apologies.

 

If you go that route, you can grind the ports in the accumulator. A couple folks have said that it works great.