Active with the xpioneer5800bhs

I got a new replacement JL 400/4 and I got the JL RBC-1 for Christmas,I was thinking going active at 75 watts x 4 off of the pioneer x5800bhs,Powering hertz hi energies components up front.I just wanted to know if this will give me a better sound than passive?I never went active before and was just interested how it sounds...Will going active on the head unit be fine instead of a dsp?The head unit would have to go in network mode?Thank you!!

 

Yeah, you'll have to use network mode. That'll give you 3 distinct sets of channels - tweets, mids and sub (if you wish..or you can let your midwoofers play all the way down). I'm using something similar with an 80PRS. Of course you'll get more control with a dedicated DSP, but this setup will work nicely for most.

Hard to say about better sound. You can alter your sound stage with this setup - which is nice. This is done via crossover points and levels and phase controls. In the hands of a reasonably competent tuner, I'd think it would be better. Probably much better (than the passive route). You don't get to independently tweak each channel like you do with a more capable DSP, but aside from that detail and limited EQ, you get a pretty damn good DSP for the coin...one certainly capable of improving what you have going now.

Active is going to let you do things you can't do now - which is usually a win. Time alignment is a big part of the story here as you get to tell each driver how far away it is from the listener so that all the information reaches the ears at the same time. The effects are dramatic when properly implemented. It's worth going active for that alone IMO. You can't do this with passives unless you bi-amp. I'd expect this to be the biggest improvement, but you still have EQ, crossover points and phase you can play with too. Just go into it knowing it will need to be tuned by someone who knows what they're doing. Or get a mic and figure it out (fun, but can be overwhelming for a first-timer). Again this isn't as complex as a stand-alone unit, but goes deep enough to get a novice in trouble (ex connecting tweeters to woofer channels, etc.)

 

Thank you!! So if i should get a DSP Which one would you go with?This will be my first active system.

 

Really depends on what you wanna spend. You can get a 1st gen Helix DSP for around $400 in great condition. Considering that getting in under that mark for any new DSP will be a challenge, that's what I'd do. I see them pop up in the DIYMA classifieds on a regular basis in that ball park. I got a factory demo from a factory rep for $350. A while back JBL sold a bunch of MS8 refurbs for a song so there are people hording those. It's not as good a DSP as the Helix, but has a strong following. The Helix is where it's at though. I'd try pretty hard for one of those. 1st gen should be more than enough for you and will allow room for expansion (6 in/8 channels out). Not sure? Download the software for free & see what you think. I believe you can use any of these versions with the DSP, but I like the latest one best.

 

I forgot to mention though - if you already have the head unit, try it first. It's going to be a major improvement. Then if you need more control, go get it. A separate unit really is a bit of a pain as there is a LOT of tweaking to be done just to get to a point where you can even start tuning. Adding such a device to the signal chain complicates everything greatly and introduces potential for noise. These new Pioneer double DINs (and one or two single DINs) with network mode are an awesome solution to the DSP problem if you can get away with 'dsp lite'. And most can.

 

Awesome!! Ok when i get the wiring done and set the pioneer into network mode,Should i do the auto eq?I got the mic for auto eq...Then start setting crossovers?For as the amp gain for the tweeters and doors,I don't have my DD-1 Anymore,Im sure my friend will help me set the gains with the DD-1 but is there a correct way of doing it with a volt meter?

 

I wouldn't mess with auto EQ. Pioneer gets a lot right with these decks, but that's not among the more mentionables. Download REW and get familiar with it. Get some good test tracks - pink noise will suffice. A CD made for this sort of thing is ideal if you're unfamiliar with making your own tracks. A calibrated mic is better, but the one that comes with it will be close enough.

Set the crossovers first (your amps are not connected, right?). This is pretty important as you don't want to send full-range signals to your tweeters, etc. Maybe consider a protective capacitor here. Then set time alignment by distance. I lean my head back and use the tip of my nose for one point and the speaker for the other. YMMV. Once that's done, set the amp gains using whatever method you'll be using. Most of the time the midwoofer is the limiting factor so it should be dialed in first. Once you get that gain set, pull in the tweets then the sub to level match by ear.

Once your levels are matched you're ready to start EQ. Since you can't do independent L/R with this unit, EQ is pretty easy. Simply insert that pink noise track CD, plug in your mic to your laptop, fire up REW and start cutting peaks (ideally you will NEVER boost). Try matching a house curve if you like or just go by ear. Most tend to like a gentle downhill slope. Maybe try flipping phase on the midwoofers & tweeters once it gets settled in to see if you have any overt cancellation issues.

 

Thanks!I have not wired in the 4 channel yet...I'm going to take the crossovers out and run the wires to the back for the amp...What capacitors would be good to get?Ill buy whatever is needed...Ill download what you said and start getting use to it and if i need to ill buy a mic.Im very interested in this setup.

 

For capacitors you just want to be far enough out of the passband to avoid phase conflicts (this multiplier is open to discussion but I like to be a good 2 octaves out of the passband or more). What you need depends on the tweeter, but 100uF should cover most domes. I use the PE non-polarized electrolytic caps. You can spend more if you like, but I don't think you'll be able to hear a difference. These will protect your tweeters from DC spikes, brain failures, amp failures or other signal chain failures. Wire one in series for each tweeter. It's probably easiest to install these by the amp. You'll find that the XD's terminals are conveniently-spaced for these .

If you want a real mic, they're cheap enough. New UMM6 for $75. Or go small and try the iMM6 for a measly $15 made for a phone/tablet, but with a 3.5mm extension could go wherever. I have both of these - both really nice pieces especially at the price point.

 

Ok thank you!! Ill order the caps today...Ill buy 4 just to have them..They just wire in on the positive side of the tweeter?Ill get a mic too!

 

Ill look up the specs for the hertz hi energies tweeters.

 

Heh, good idea ordering a few extra caps. They aren't built to take physical abuse and they're cheap.

Hertz doesn't provide Fs, but do give a crossover point of 3.2 kHz @ 12 dB/oct. You could use a smaller cap if you wanted. 50 uF puts you around 2 octaves.

 

I found these in my shop,Had no clue i had them until i open my drawer where i keep caps and diodes...lol Will this work?

 

This one is a 100uf 25v

 

My bad!! I see the ones you sent in the link..Im going to order them now 50uf The ones i have in my shop are wrong.

 

I can't see your picture, but 100uF will still work if it's the right kind of cap.

 

Ordered the caps and 4 channel rca's..Might have Mr.Marv Build me another box that will hold the 10" jl slim that i have and a radiator sub.