Acute Vibration Started at 22K mi - RESOLVED ? HOPE SO

Let us know.

 

UPDATE: Lift shop called today. Says they ran tests, vibration is obvious but can only point to drive-line. They said they lowered the carrier bearing and that didn't change anything. They believe the drive line is egg-rolling instead of true. They are sending it out today for re-balance. Said work will be done tomorrow and can re-test. Will post more when I get info.

 

sub'd

 

What is egg-rolling? Never heard of that term before.

I think they are full of poop.

Keep us updated, really curious now. See if you can find out what egg-rolling is.

 

Think jumping rope...eliptical rotation instead of circular.

 

Yes, it wasn't some official term, they just used that as a way to describe what the drive line was doing. Imagine rolling an egg vs a true round ball. They believe this is causing the vibration. I've had my truck in 3 different places now. Sorta getting tired of nobody being able to figure it out so I'm hoping this is it. I also realize vibration issues are sometimes difficult to source. I've read so many posts about issues like this.

 

There is a term which I cannot remember. To a method which I do remember, but many tire shops don't have the tool to do the work.

I used to read Off Road Adventures regularly. I really enjoyed the tech editorial at the back. They described a scenario where sometimes tires wear out of round. That there is the ability to trim off a few millimeters to get them back to a true round. Coincidentally,I was having a vibration issue with my 35" BFG mud terrains. Kept getting worse as the miles grew. Narrowed it down to the rear right wheel. Swapped it to the front, and holy shite. 4wheelparts didn't have that tool to trim the rubber. Bought two new tires to even them out. They had about half life on them and it was so bad that it would shake the bed at a certain rpm/speed.

After that, when they started getting knobby, I'd do a little burnout and smooth them back up.

 

Out of balance? Or what is causing that defective universal joint or carrier bearing?

 

If the carrier bearing bushing (or the bearing itself) allows movement, it can do this because of the middle joint in the DS. If the shaft is out of balance it will do this and wreck both the u joint and CB

 

Hello, I had one hell of a vibration under about 2200rpm and fixed it by pulling the air intake towards the center of the engine bay. The intake would slide out and into the wheel well and vibrate like nobody's business. My 2 cents and its easy to check

 

RESOLVED: Drive line out of balance. Sent out for re-balance. Carrier bearing required minor adjustment. Truck is as good as new! Love having my taco back!

 

Was it installed crooked? My 2015 was and it caused premature failure at 8k which took the rear end with it

 

The biggest question is How did it get out of balance?.

 

Ya, I'd like to know. I'm not really sure. I purchased some jetski's a few months ago and have been taking trips to the lake 1-2 times a week. The entire rig is 3,500lbs. I also have 35's and geared 4:88 with a s/c. I'm not sure if that matters or not but it's the only thing I can think of that has changed.

The out of balance issue went for about 1K miles before I starting chasing a fix around the city.

Thoughts? ...and what kind of damage could an imbalanced driveline might have caused?

 

It may not have effected anything. It could effect the transmission output shaft seal and or bearing and the same for the differential pinion shaft seal and bearing.

Look for an oil leak in these areas and don't worry about it if you don't feel it or see a leak.

 

No leak; just feels like truck is now normal. It if happens again, at least I'll know what it is...or can rule that part out. Thanks for all the help with this guys!

 

Sheeeit! 2 days and vibration seems to have retuned. Bad drive line? Taking to bloody dealer tomorrow.

1. Dealer blamed lift.
2. Took to lift shop, they blamed dealer part, charged me $250 to balance driveline

I'm about ready to rip out a can of whoopass …

 

I'll just leave this here:

http://us.hubcentric-rings.com/why_hub_centric_rings/?src=intpopup

The rings are a reasonably cheap point to eliminate the wheels as a cause. And really you should be using them anyway to comply with the original design of the wheel to hub fitment.

 

IMHO it's a driveshaft issue. In my jeep I would remove the rear driveshaft completely and drive it around for a week or two FWD only. If this resolves your issue you know where to look. It could be that the driveshaft is balanced but not sleveing smoothly.. Not sure if your driveshaft sleves or it uses a slip yolk at the transfer case??

Just my thoughts.. Carry on..

 

Thanks guys. This is a long drawn out biznitch of a problem.

Bought truck new from dealer. Lifted truck through dealer (subd to DSI/4wheelparts). Purchased 100K/8Yr warranty.

With this particular issue: Dealer sends me to sub. Sub replaces UJoint, carrier bearing adjusted, drive line balanced...it was good for about a day. Problem came back day later. Today I went back to my dealer, and he tells me because 4WheelParts did the driveline work, it voids my Toyota Warranty (Drive Chain). I seriously went Trump on his ass. Dealer subs work, dealer sends me to sub for repair, repair work done, and dealer says its their fault and they have to cover. WTF, seriously??? I was lead down a path by my own dealer to void my warranty. That is absolute BS.

After a long fight, the truck is being evaluated again by sub. Sub says will likely call tomorrow with diagnosis and cover repairs.

Toyota dealer is standing by this stupid notion that if they don't do the work, my warranty is void. Is that true? If so, why the F would anyone purchase a warranty?

I thought that if any shop does work and uses OEM parts, is qualified to do that work, customer has receipt of work, then warranty stands. No? (Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act)