Add a Fuse/Circuit

That's exactly it.
Now that I think of it, isnt there some kind of fuse that you can attach a wire to the top of with a female spade connector?? That way, I could just plug in a 2A fuse and run the wire directly to it. I'm almost positive I've seen these, but don't know if they come in the mini fuse type.

And NO - I'm not pulling apart my dash or fuse panel to run wires. I've got enough issues in my life without adding any more headaches. LOL....



Edit - Found the fuse tap -

$9 WirthCo 30800 Battery Doctor Fuse Tap Kit for Mini Fuses

http://www.amazon.com/Wirthco-30800-Mini-Fuse-Kits/dp/B000CQDRTI

 

That'll work! That kit looks to require an existing fuse to 'wrap around' of you will. Check these out:

$9 WirthCo 30100 Battery Doctor Tap for Vacant Energized Slots in ATM/Mini-Fuse Block Kit

http://www.amazon.com/Wirthco-30100..._9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1331649439&sr=1-9

There is one that plugs directly into one side of a fuse like a spade. I'd go to an auto parts store to make sure you get the correct size. I think the under dash fuse panel uses really small fuses.

 

Actually, after doing some quick research online, I think I'll stay away from those taps and stick with what I have. I think too much could potentially go wrong with something like that.
I actually work for an Electrical / Mechanical shop (I'm the Mechanical side) and the electrical guys said I'm out of my mind using something like that if I have the option to use the AAF.

They jokingly told me I might as well get a small metal shiv or a paper clip to achieve the same thing (with most likely the same outcome).

 

Jokes aside, that's all they really are, just a small metal piece jambed into the socket. For low draw they're ok as a last resort because if they wiggle loose and fall out, the connection is broken. For higher amerage uses, no way in hell I'd use one of those

 

That's exactly what I'm doing on this install only because of a size constraint in the panel.
Im installiing it incorrectly so the F1 is powering the entire circuit.
I'm putting two 2A fuses in - just because the other slot requires a fuse there to allow power through the circuit.
No matter what, I'm fused for 2A and don't care which one burns, as long as I'm protected by one of the 2A fuses (I understand the weaker of the two will snap first and leave the other intact).

I'm only doing this in this location as nothing is in that slot on the panel - the only thing to be fused is my AAF.

 

By looking at your photo, I'd say that was installed incorrectly.
On mine, the wire coming out of the AAF has to be on the top. If you remove the fuse that's in slot #1 (or "a") on your AAF and plug this back in, you shouldn't have power getting to the other fuse on the AAF -which means the fuse in slot #1 is powering the whole circuit.
Check yours when you get a chance.
To install this correctly, you should be able to have power to slot #2 without a fuse in #1 - If not, then rotate your AAF (wire coming out on top).

I could be completely wrong, but I would think all fuses in the panel would have the hot side all on the same side - either the top or the bottom. I don't see how or why they would mix them, but who knows....

 

If you don't have two fuses in your AAF, then Toyota must wire the hot side to the three rows on the panel differently.
Or maybe they did them differently for different years.
I also have an access cab, so tonight i'll try that fuse location as that would also work for what I need. I think I have a fuse installed in that location, so I'll check if that's for the rear power windows. If it is for the rear power windows, why would they install a fuse there on an access cab?? Why not leave it blank like the one I found in the top row??
I really don't want to bend the wire coming out of the AAF too tightly and that spot would work well...I'll let you know what I find...

 

Okay, my fuse panel edumacation is now complete...

The top two rows on the fuse panel have the hot pins in the same location. The lower row has the hot pins on the opposite leg.
When using an AAF in the top two rows, the wire will face up. When using in the bottom row, the wire will face down. Glad to see Toyota be consistent.....

Anywhooooo, the Access Cab has two fuses installed for no reason - the driver and passenger side rear window fuses. No idea why they put these two fuses in unless they assemble them early and don't know which model they'll be used in. These two can be used for anything that would need power only when the ignition is on and the truck is running. I plan on using one of these for another AAF for my bed lights once I get around to installing them.

There are four blanks - one in the upper row (which has power) and three in the bottom row (which do not have power).

I kept my AAF in the top blank with power and left it installed correctly with just the one fuse in the AAF. The reason I kept it here is that for some reason the blank only has power when you turn your running lights on. I'm assuming this has something to do with the stock location of fogs, which my base model truck doesn't have.
I'm using this location for a switch which turns on my fog/driving lights (PIAA 510's).
By leaving it here, I can only turn on my PIAA lights when my running lights are on. I can have them on for just the running, normal driving or high beam lights, but the PIAA's turn off when I turn off all my lights or turn off the engine - whichever comes first - so this acts as a safety mechanism for me so I won't drain the battery if I forget to turn them off.

I also didn't install the AAF incorrectly as I wanted because I assume there's wiring somewhere that's tied to this blank fuse - why else would there be power to it? By installing the AAF correctly, I'm not completing the original circuit as i'm not putting a fuse in slot #1 and only using slot #2 of the AAF. I didn't want to complete the original circuit as I don't know how they tied off any unconnected wires (if they're even there at all).

So, thanks to everyone for all their information, I learned just enough today to get myself into trouble...

 

The four empty slots in this picture reflects mine. There is NO power to any of these ign on or off.

I have one empty slot in the engine bay fuse box but it is powered all the time.

I will have to "piggy back" off a 10A and hope that I dont come close to 10A correct? The accessory I am installing pulls approx 40W @12V (3.3A). Overhead DVD Player

 

The way I understand it is this -

You have to make sure you don't put any larger than a 10 amp fuse into slot #2 (the circuit you're adding). I don't hink it matters what size the original fuse is that you're tapping into, but I could be wrong on that.

 

If you need more than 2 - 5 Amps, I'd pull off the fuse panel under the hood instead of the fuse panel inside the cab. It's a cleaner power source meaning it's basically a direct feed from the battery. Just my $0.02.

 

Good information, good conversation.
This thread is growing old, but solid information never dies!
Thanks.

 

HA! Ain't that the truth. I'm here in 2023. Still useful for my 2009 as I'm wiring for heated seats! I started the wiring today from the switches to the inside fuse box but don't have the AAF. I'm going to need to use 2 separate AAF's, 1 for each front heated seat. I'm thinking I'll come off the windows, however I'm thinking if I have the child window lock pressed in it'll kill power to my heaters??? We shall see...