Added power locks and windows - 2012

OP, for connecting your door lock actuator rod to the lock switch cable, did you peel off a section of the black tube housing that covers that cable? I am an installer and have done several power door lock kits on tacomas but never like that. I have always been afraid to cut/damage the cable or have the actuator not get a good enough grip on the thin cable. I have always modified the inside of the actual door lock switch and placed the actuator rod directly into it as seen below. But your method seems way easier! Now that I know it works I'll definitely start doing this. Will probably save at least 30-45 minutes per door on install time and will also allow me to reduce labor costs. Nice work!

 

I like that installation.

A1 offers two kits, one for pushrod and one for cable.
I found out last week that the cable type actuators have a different throw... A1 exchanged my system with no questions asked.

 

So I understand how the push rod one works. But our trucks use the cables instead of rods as you mentioned. If they sell a cable specific kit, how does it hoop up? I imagine the cable needs to be exposed underneath its rubber covering right? Sort of like splicing a wire back

 

Exactly.

Cut the outer jacket away from the cable over the length between the clamps on the brace.
The brace holds the outer jacket position.

There is a clamp that slips over the cable, and the actuator's pushrod goes into it.
From there, it's the same as the pushrod style. Operate the manual lock and mark each end of the throw, split the difference and mark the center.
Run the actuator to each end of it's throw, split the difference, and line up the center of the actuator's throw with the center of the cable's travel and secure the adapter clamp to the cable and pushrod.


Mind you, I have not done the mod yet.
Was going to attack it Saturday but it was too hot to do anything... I haven't even wired/mounted my projectors yet.

 

$120 w/o alarm
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01C-712T

$145 w/alarm
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01C-740T


No need to bother with manual switches. This is a "central" lock/unlocking kit.
When the door is locked or unlocked with the remote, key, or the door toggle, both doors will lock or unlock at the same time.
Yes... locking the door from the existing lock will lock both doors.
If your '11 is like my '08, just pulling the interior door handle will unlock (again, both doors), or you can just flip the toggle.

 

I like the idea of power locks because my wife is so used to them that she's always forgetting to lock her door when we are shopping, and of course, I hate the wear on the key and the lock cylinder.

Power windows? It would be nice to be able to crack the passenger window on a hot day, and the cops in my area have a habit of putting one cop on each side and then they ask you to roll down the passenger window so he can talk at you... but no, I'm not going to deal with the window conversion. Just no "clean" place to mount the switches unless I put them on the shifter console.

 

Yup.

That's why I like the idea of the central locking system.
The stock toggles still work, so even if the electrical takes a shit, you're just back to regular locks, and there's no outward indication of the mod.

 

LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Same here buddy.

 

Im a DEI fan and the only alarm/keyless entry system ill use is Viper. Just personal preference as well as personal experience. Long lasting and dependable (not that Avital isn't). Not smashing on your system Rich, but jsut putting this out there as an alternative, Look into the "Viper 350 Plus" system found here: http://www.viper.com/P-3105V/Viper-350-Plus-1-way-Security-System
It is a full "basic" alarm including shock sensor, starter kill, 1/4 mile range, code-hoping, siren, parking light flash, and most importantly... 2 auxiliary output channels which can be used to trigger a number of different accessories from the remote. Retail is insane at $299 from DEI but it can be found brand new on eBay or Amazon for as low as $50. The purchase 2 DEI actuators (model 524N) also found online for about $15-20 each. Now you get a full alarm system plus actuators for about $120 with any applicable tax and/or shipping charges. No additional parts or relays should be required unless adding accessories.

Only downside to this (for you Rich) is that it is not a "central" locking system. From the remote, both will un/lock together, but if you manually open one door, the other will not unlock. IMHO, this is more of a positive feature than a downside though. When you get out your going to lock with the remote anyways so even if your wife forgets to lock the door, it doesn't matter. You can also program passive arming so you never have to press lock (although this is bad if you leave the keys inside the truck). Because of my job and my pursuit of a career in Law Enforcement, I have developed an exaggerated sense of awareness and personal safety, so when you say both doors unlock if 1 door is opened, that throws red flags in my mind. Chances are it will never make a difference in the world, but I have a tendency to always think worst case (which really makes people see me as a negative person ) and so my first thought was: what if I get car jacked... person comes up to driver side, you want your wife to get out and run without it unlocking your door... person comes up to passenger side, you want to get out and defend your vehicle and family without unlocking the door and giving direct access to your wife. Like I said, probably pretty extreme, but IMO this "central" locking system is convenient, but also not safe. Especially when you have a remote now anyways so it becomes useless anyways.

On top of all that, you get a #1 name brand alarm in the industry which is also backed by a 1 year guarantee which refunds your comprehensive deductible (up to $2500) in the event your vehicle is stolen or damaged while the alarm was armed.

Yes I know, way too much free product rep and promotion going on, but as a professional certified installer, its just my preference. Yes, Avital is also made by DEI (directed) so Im sure it has many of the same features and guarantees, but its just a preference to me. Seems like for the same price (actually less) you get more.

Again Rich, dont take this personal, im not bashing your product choice here, just throwing out some useful info. Also want to mention that for those afraid of attempting the install on this, it is quite simple and I am more than happy to walk you through the install and give wiring info and advice. If your local, I can do the install for a nominal fee

OK, rant over now... and I just realized it was all probably worthless info too

 

Also, Rich, if you need help with any of your actuator install or alarm stuff (or any electronics stuff, even wholesale product pricing) im willing trade my help/connections for some help with my FX-R's I still need to order some new lights, just been to busy and havent had time so Ill order em this week and probably doing my install next week. A hole saw would be helpful if you have one

 

Click photo for video of actuator installation pictured above

 

DEI is great stuff and Ive used their equipment on any aftermarket alarm I've installed since '92, but I'm not wanting the full alarm at this point.
I'm not even crazy about the added key fob that I'll have for the remote, much less a larger LCD unit. I'm already stick with the stupid Lojack early warning fob that I have to carry.

The central lock is a better system for me due to the fact that I can unlock the passenger door without reaching across (and without mounting a switch or fiddling with a remote).

 

Yeah I'm sure you did your research and picked what's best for you. Your pretty tech savvy. Just throwing out my .02 that's all.

 

So I got some extra money and I'm going to be ordering a kit soon, wich one is better the cable or push rod? Wich is less of a pita to install?

 

Nvm I orderd the 120$ one rich linked hope it works good, how's the wiring job done where do you run wires to and whatnot.?

 

Unless Anthony advises otherwise on a different kit, you need the cable kit if you buy from A1 Electric. The pushrod actuators have a different throw.
But Anthony uses a different actuator in his installs. If he's going to be doing the work, I'd go with the parts he recommends as he is most familiar with it.

I have not had the time to install mine yet.
My plan is to mount the module on the driver's door next to the speaker.

 

Ok cool I ordered the cable kit, same as he has and it seems simple enough to install just might need more supports for the actuator. Just wondering how the wiring is do you tap into speaker wire for power or somewhere else. From what I've Herd they send you a installation sheet to help out. Just curious cause I ordered the one with the key fob.

 

There is an installation sheet, but it's going to take some familiarity with wiring and such, depending on how much function you want to add.

The cable system includes a bracket that clamps onto the cable, you strip the outer jacket, and attach the pushrods to the cable. They also provide perforated strips for mounting the actuators.

Don't bother buying the pushbutton option, it's useless. It's a "central" lock/unlock kit. Locking or unlocking one door with the key, door lever, or key fob, all doors will lock or unlock, so to lock or unlock the passenger door, all you need to do is operate the door lever, same as you do now for the driver's door. The actuator has a set of contacts that will trigger the system when the door is manually locked or unlocked.

 

Yea that's perfect that's all I need, figured I'd add the fob anyways

 

The remote fob is awesome.

I'm saying that the dash switch is totally redundant. Since you can reach one of the door levers from anywhere in the truck, and either door lever will lock or unlock all doors, there's no need to wire and mount the switch.