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Added power locks and windows - 2012

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by eight08, Mar 19, 2012.

  1. Dec 25, 2012 at 5:39 PM
    #41
    TwzteD

    TwzteD Well-Known Member

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    2013 4x4 reg cab, 2011 4runner sr5 rims, 265 general grabber at2's, 5100's All 4 corners with fronts at .85, De badged, Egr Rainguards, Led tail lights, Int wipers, fog lights, Trailer Hitch, POwer locks+ keyless entry, Extang Solidfold Bed Cover, WeatherTech Mats, Stubbie Antenna, Trd Skid Plate, Tint, Scanguage, Cargo net in bed, Sound Ordnance B-8PT, FULID FILM Under Coat.
    Yea I'm def with you on that would be pointless more money and extra work for nothing. Thanks for the help.
     
  2. Dec 25, 2012 at 5:44 PM
    #42
    Larry

    Larry CARL

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    impressive
     
  3. Dec 25, 2012 at 10:01 PM
    #43
    Millertime187

    Millertime187 I'll be your huckleberry!

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    Just a few little things. It's my DD
    Sub- nice. I need this bad
     
  4. Dec 26, 2012 at 1:40 PM
    #44
    2012reg4x4

    2012reg4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Rigid sr10inch, rigid duallys on cbi pillar mounts, bamf sliders, Jason cyber camper shell. 5100s at 1.75, wheelers aal 1.5 inch.
    ive been thinking about doing this on mine as well. i want to try a factory motor though and use an aftermarket switch mounted where the power mirror switch is located in the higher end models.

    however, the regular cab doors are about 8 inches longer than the access or quad cab doors so the motors may not work. i have been trying to find an 05+ tacoma in a junkyard in my area but havent been successful in that yet.
     
  5. Dec 26, 2012 at 7:30 PM
    #45
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    From what I've read on here, the actual lock motor is located inside the door lock/latch assembly. I would call the dealership and ask if the manual door lock/latch is the same part number for both access cab and regular cab. If it is, it would seem likely that the factory power lock/latch for an access cab would fit. The electrical part is easy. A 12V motor is a 12V motor.
     
  6. Dec 26, 2012 at 7:38 PM
    #46
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    I doubt you're going to be successful.
    To my knowledge, power was not available on any RC models.

    On the switch issue, as mentioned above, these aftermarket systems are "central"... locking or unlocking with either the key or the factory door lever (or the fob) will operate the locks on both doors.
    Invisible installation... no cutting or mounting anything to visible panels.
     
  7. Dec 27, 2012 at 3:03 PM
    #47
    2012reg4x4

    2012reg4x4 Well-Known Member

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    i meant just for the power windows. i work in a body shop, toyota one at that, and if i have an access or quad cab come in i might take a look at the latches though. as for the power windows, it does look like there is some mounting similarities between them. could work.....id like to find a motor for cheap to see though. the wiring is the easy part.
     
  8. Dec 27, 2012 at 7:05 PM
    #48
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Ahh... Windows would be cool, especially when my wife forgets and leaves hers barely cracked open and I discover it the next day on the freeway when I get a deafening whistle at 70mph.

    First time that happened I thought my stereo was screwed up.
     
  9. Jan 3, 2013 at 4:17 PM
    #49
    TwzteD

    TwzteD Well-Known Member

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    2013 4x4 reg cab, 2011 4runner sr5 rims, 265 general grabber at2's, 5100's All 4 corners with fronts at .85, De badged, Egr Rainguards, Led tail lights, Int wipers, fog lights, Trailer Hitch, POwer locks+ keyless entry, Extang Solidfold Bed Cover, WeatherTech Mats, Stubbie Antenna, Trd Skid Plate, Tint, Scanguage, Cargo net in bed, Sound Ordnance B-8PT, FULID FILM Under Coat.
    So i ordered the kit above from a1 electric, i noticed in this pic it looked as if he tapped off the speaker wire for power? is this true?
    If not, where would the best place to find somewhere with 12volt constant other than battery...?


    EDIT: Does the fuse box by the steering wheel have a constant 12v fuse? that where i plugged in my fog switch for power.

    [QUOTE
    [​IMG][/QUOTE]
     
  10. Jan 3, 2013 at 5:39 PM
    #50
    TwzteD

    TwzteD Well-Known Member

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    wheres this white blue wire you speak of located?
     
  11. Jan 3, 2013 at 7:18 PM
    #51
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    LOL, no...

    What looks like a shadow next to the hole in the door under the tweeter harness, you can see the blue pair passing down into the door.
    Yes.
    Both switched and constant are available on that box.
     
  12. Jan 3, 2013 at 7:54 PM
    #52
    Vstrom30

    Vstrom30 Well-Known Member

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    Nice job on the install! I just want to add a side note for people thinking about installing the lock actuators. Don't go cheap on them. I installed some cheapies 3 trucks ago, and they wouldn't work below freezing. You get what you pay for. :)
     
  13. Jan 4, 2013 at 2:40 AM
    #53
    TwzteD

    TwzteD Well-Known Member

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    I have the cable kit the OP has with they keyless entry system you posted a link to above, installing the actuator and everything else is self explanatory, I was just wondering where or what place is best to tap into for a constant 12v without running a wire to the battery. He said he tapped into a blue/white wire, just wanted to know where that's all. So if there's a open fuse that has 12v constant I will go buy a add a fuse like I did with my fogs, but I have another question, is it safe to run the door lock actuator harness off of that and that into the top of the harness for the power to the keyless entry system or should I run separate power sources and grounds?


    Edit: also would I be able to get away with splicing both power wires from the keyless entry and lock actuator harness into the one add a fuse and put it in the fuse box? The find a ground and use the same point for both grounds?
     
  14. Jan 4, 2013 at 10:21 AM
    #54
    eight08

    eight08 [OP] Active Member

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    This was awhile ago, so details are a little blurry. As far as I can remember, the locks come with it's own fuse, no need to add another one in. The constant power I tapped was on the driver side, underneath the steering wheel, next to the fuse box. I ran new ground - drilled a hole near driver side kick panel for a self tapping screw - using the same ground for windows and locks.
     
  15. Jan 4, 2013 at 10:52 AM
    #55
    TwzteD

    TwzteD Well-Known Member

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    Yea they harness has a fuse but my intention was to use a "add a fuse" wich is basicicaly a flues looking adapter with a wire to plug into a fuse box for an assesorie but don't need to add a fuse like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GKEXK22 for the 12v power and find a ground, would it be safe to power both the lock harness and keyless system off the same power source from the fuse box?
     
  16. Jan 4, 2013 at 1:56 PM
    #56
    TwzteD

    TwzteD Well-Known Member

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    Ok so, the 3 fuse blanks on the right of the fuse block get no 12v power at all, i noticed the top right one is 20a and gets 12v constant power. On the little cover it says "dr lck 20a" im assuming that this fuse is for power locks? (wich i dont have from factory) so would this be a safe place to "add a circuit" aka add a fuse for power to both harnesses, just like i did for my fogs?. Finding ground is not an issue, just don't want to splice into another wire if i dont have to and for easy trouble shooting if any future issues arise.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Jan 4, 2013 at 5:00 PM
    #57
    TwzteD

    TwzteD Well-Known Member

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    2013 4x4 reg cab, 2011 4runner sr5 rims, 265 general grabber at2's, 5100's All 4 corners with fronts at .85, De badged, Egr Rainguards, Led tail lights, Int wipers, fog lights, Trailer Hitch, POwer locks+ keyless entry, Extang Solidfold Bed Cover, WeatherTech Mats, Stubbie Antenna, Trd Skid Plate, Tint, Scanguage, Cargo net in bed, Sound Ordnance B-8PT, FULID FILM Under Coat.
    so heres what i came up with, [​IMG]

    End of power wire plugged into the 20a socket since the harness has a 15a fuse inline that i soldered in and black to ground. What do you guys think.

    Also will the keyless entry system work without the "yellow" ignition wire connected? i don't really want my doors to lock when i turn the ignition on.

    Please let me know what u think. Thanks -kyle


    Edit: Sorry for the tripple post but i plan on installing this tomorrow and would like to know before hand.
     
  18. Jan 4, 2013 at 5:22 PM
    #58
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    That should work.

    If you want the keyless to activate the interior light, confirm that it applies a ground and connect it to the blue wire in the A-Pillar.
     
  19. Jan 4, 2013 at 6:55 PM
    #59
    TwzteD

    TwzteD Well-Known Member

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    Don't really mind not having the lights horn beep would be nice and the flash but I want to keep it simple I could always run it in the future, just lock unlock with no fires is all I need lol.
     
  20. Jan 4, 2013 at 7:58 PM
    #60
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Horn beep I don't want.
    The old Toyota chirp is bad enough when I leave for work at 5am.
    Parking light flash is a nice confirmation that it's locked.
    Interior light on unlock is nice for security, and if you have puddle lights on your mirrors like the 4-Runner, it's also nice.
     

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