adding a sub using High/Low converter

Hope this helps anyone looking to upgrade the sound with a little extra BOOM BOOM!! I used a high/ low converter to generate the low signal I needed for the amp. For the driver side you will see 2 sets of (twisted) black and white wires. Use the thicker gauged wire of the two, those are the speaker wires. Always confirm your wires before splicing into them. I tested it by cutting the black wire, and confirmed the audio stopped coming out of the speaker.

 

you generally want to come off the front speakers, because the rear speakers are a neutered signal at a lower wattage. front speakers get a full range signal, which can make a significant difference in sub output.

 

@soundman98 Fortunately that wasn't the case, I get full range (maintaining my LOW as well), at all volume settings; I have seen that in European vehicles, but not so much in Japanese or American. Although that depends on the sound system you are working with at the time of the installation. Sound systems that generally try to self equalize themselves to avoid for low frequency saturation tend to do have that neutered signal issue. Similar to systems that produce and induced feed back signal from the Mic they use up by the driver. I have had this occur in many Lexus vehicles, when you have a (H/L) converter in line with the speakers (even pinching the signal directly from the subwoofer output) and the aftermarket woofer (s) produces a low frequency & most aggravating hum. Solution unplug the Mic, up till now I've never had an issue with the speaker phone operation in the cars I have worked on.

 

What subs did you end up installing? I just used a converter I got off of Amazon for $20 that plugs into the back of the head unit for mine.

 

Old RF single 10" not much room to go bonkers back there, but it sounds good.

 

I have installed a couple 8” mid/subs (2 and 4 ohm) in the drivers rear door to try to get more signal in the back. The signal to those speakers are definitely neutered. (From the JBL amp) There are no low frequencies sent to the rear doors. Actually, the shallow mount kicker 6.5’s output significantly more volume.




(admitted hack job of spacers to determine feasibility)

 

Not dicing your advice, but I spliced the rear speakers behind the deck for my underseat powered Sub, and it kicks ass.

Considering it's small, and using the rear speakers, I'm impressed.

 

Check that the speakers didn't have a cap soldiered to it; highly unlikely you are getting any this "neutered sound" or frequency roll off JBL is not one to reduce low Hz in their sound systems also obviously confirm you are playing audio with bass to it. To be honest I have been doing system for years and this was only something that was a big deal in BOSE systems due to their self equalization. The sound was never cut off by the factory EQ its was mostly components places in line to reduce distortion at lower frequencies to prevent damage from people cranking the radio. Dope Speakers by the way no sweat on the trim rings LOL during the making of an omelet you will crack a few eggs!! I bet it sounds great, what amp did you put on them?

 

the jbl system in these trucks is a full active electronic crossover setup. the whole reason they install a subwoofer is so they can limit the bass going to the door speakers.

 

Copy that. That's actually were you want to pinch the signal from if you're installing a subwoofer, using a (H/L) converter.