Adding Back the Driver Side Bed Storage Cubby on 2019+ Models

Damn looks like ill be removing mine to install the cubby then re install

 

Thanks for the write up. Did mine this weekend. Guts to make the first cut and then there is no going back.

 

It’s like Toyota wants to piss people off, add an item and remove another. At least these are easy to add. I’m looking to replace the above wheel cubby’s on my 2nd gen with power outlets for a solar set up to live in with a canopy camper. I think I’ll also put in the bigger version of this along with the guild outfitters plug and a ton of molle panels.

 

Having owned a Gen 2 with both the left and right cubbies, I was surprised that my new-to-me '22 didn't have them. Had no idea the left had been arbitrarily removed late in the Gen 3 lifecycle.
Great write up!

 

Since my Sport model doesn't have room for a second battery under the hood near the firewall on the passenger side, I need another spot for it and thinking hard about putting it here but using this: https://jdfabrication.com/collectio...ondary-shocks-for-4-lt?variant=41535548326003

 

Its been a year but how is that ducting holding up? I went with the same type of duct material and found that the foil is lined with clear PET and will outgas/shrink with the temps the heater puts out. The material is good to about 180 degrees and then you get that burnt paper melted plastic smell in the area you are heating.

 

I'm curious which diesel heater that is and if it's still holding up. I've been looking at them and they're all about the same price and none of them have consistently good reviews.

 

tips after using mine for a year:
these heaters will not run reliably on 12 volt systems(AGM, LifePo4) even if you shorten the extremely long power cord to minimize voltage drop.
The electronics in them are calibrated for lead-acid batteries, and prefer a regulated 13.8v source from the alternator. Other chemistries need a 150w+ 13.8v voltage booster to run it.
There is a quality control issue that can be a safety hazard where the heating chamber casting has a pinhole defect and operating it causes the heater to burn a hole through the casing and ignite the unit.
which ever brand you buy, dismantle down to the metal chamber and check for holes before using, or test in a wide open area with the unit on high for a few hours.
Exhaust can be an issue because people think the little clamp should be fine. use muffler paste to close any gaps in the connection the clamp can't seal and support the exhaust hose with brackets, please do not let it dangle..
very bad for longevity, as it puts perpendicular torque on the nozzle and the exhaust flow causes the pipe to oscillate, bobbing up and down all night.
the outlet eventually breaks off and you have a fire because the 500 degree exhaust is now firing downward, melting the plastic crate its sitting on and causing a bigger fire.
It won't happen the first night, or the second, but on that one careless night where you are too tired and cold to pre-check the heater and its been working so well all this time right?... taco del carbon.