ADS Extended Travel Clicker Resevoir vs Bilstein 8112’s

the 8112 doesnt have clips like the 5100 and 6112 do. They're on an adjustable sleeve. Unsure how high I have the front lifted but they're not close to being maxed out thats for sure. I would guess 2.5 inches? I prefer not to preload my springs to the point where it makes the ride harsh.

 

you have pics showing your preload of your 8112s. 2” is suppose to be max or 19 11/16” max length of coil. That’s mine about 1” on both sides with 650coils

 

Any negatives/cons to the 8112’s that anyone who has them has noticed?

 

i'll try and take some tomorrow

 

Driver and passenger

 

600lb springs that they come with?

 

I'm on 700lb coils

 

The spring rate will affect ride much less than shock valving. We're on ADS with 700lb front coils, front ride height set just high enough to prevent rubbing at full stuff, and very little added weight. With the reservoirs dialed to their softest settings the truck rides like a Cadillac.

 

Just the price tag

 

Thanks,
Headstrong suggested 650, I went with ADS and that spring rate. I would rather be a tad soft then a tad stiff.

 

You should be fine. Large bumpers tend to cause the sag. I may try 650’s in the future to compare

 

I'll definitely share my thoughts when I get them in.

 

I have some ADS ordered. The ability to revalve was one of my top priorities. Not sure you can on 8112s

 

Here's a stupid question, what does "revalving? mean?

 

Changing the rebound and or compression shim stack from stock for desires results. https://arizonadesertshocks.com/product-support/

 

Thanks, I read that link. But I’m still unclear. So a shock cam be valved to run stiffer for some added weight, like a bumper.
What if I want my new Ads shocks to be softer, how do I re valve for that?

 

These guys have excellent suspension videos:
https://youtu.be/FtAP774EaIA

 

Almost all rebuildable shocks will be the same for revalve :

1. Discharge the nitrogen from the remote reservoir via a schrader valve at the end
2. Remove coils , remove alien screw holding end dust cap on shock body , then remove the main shock seal (usually by removing the heavy ass snap ring)
3. Pull entire shock shaft out of the body (which now has the dust cap, seal and the main dampening piston at the end with all your shims stacked up)
4. Take off the one end nut holding it all on the shaft and Replace the shims with thicker or thinner ones on either the compression or rebound side of the piston depending on how you want to tune your shock. You want softer compression ? Ok replace the shims in there with ones that are simply thinner . If 0.015” shims are in there now replace some or all of the various shims with 0.010” (example)
5. Once u put your new shim stack in their , retightened the end nut slide it back into the main shock body which is stilling in your vice upside down like a open beer mug (keeping all the oil still in there) . If you want to replace all the oil with new shock oil you can dump it all but you need to pump all of the old oil also sitting in the remote resi by also removing the end dust cap (held in by snap ring)and depressing the floating piston (separates nitrogen from shock oil) till it bottoms out in the reservoir , just like injecting butter into a turkey with a syringe.
6. Add your new oil to the main shock body and suck some of it up back into the remote resi, again like syringe , using a long threaded rod which screws into that resis floating piston we talked about (set it 1/2 or 2/3 the way in the total length of the remote resi can).
7. Reinstall that shock shaft and keep topping off with shock oil until no air bubbles are in there and the main shock seal squeeze nice and tight in there. Put all the other caps back in and charge that schrader valve up back with nitrogen 180psi.
At 3:16min an actual little girl is showing you how to do this :

 

What size of tires ?

 

Why did you decide on both rather than a complete set of either?