ADS Off-Road Racing Shocks - Information, Pictures, & BS Thread

Yeah the only weight that should be affecting the front suspension would be the IFS skid and bumper/winch. Sliders, mid and transfer case skids are all too far back.

 

It’s distributed among all shocks. Braking and cornering will be affected so your front shocks account for that. I upgraded my front brakes and went with DOT4 fluid because I boiled my DOT3 fluid. They stop way better now

 

Get rid of that sway bar! I was worried that it was going to be super soft and I wouldn't like how it felt. With the 700lb springs it handles fine, you can feel it when turning sharp at higher speeds but overall I just adjusted my driving habits so that I don't over correct. When my compression was set at zero I could feel it more but if I crank the compression up it feels as if I never took the sway bar out. Even if you or your wife doesn't like the feel of it the sway bar is easy to reinstall.

I would highly recommend the rears, I have the compression adjustment and these shocks are way better than my bilsteins that I had and they look amazing

 

Top plate spacers on $1500 coilovers?

You're effectively adding that amount to the extended and collapsed lengths, which is double that at the weel.

May not cause an issue, but may also allow too much downtravel if you don't have straps, and cause the shock to bottom out before your get into your bumps.

If you're that worried about your CV angles you probably have too much lift and not enough downtravel anways.

 

I would never do this and my CV angles are cherry. I was just curious if it could be done from the OP's perspective

 

My UCA is nowhere near my coils. And at full droop there’s still plenty of room for the uniball to drop more.

On top of that the ADSs were the same exact length as my Toytec lift. I was under the impression they would be longer.

Just a few reasons why I thought kings May be longer.

 

Your CVs will be your limiting factor, not the uniball or the UCA hitting anything unless you have a janky alignment.

Hub to fender measurements would be the best way to compare.

Also, if your curious about 'extended travel' - Take the hub to fender measurement at full droop, then pull the coilover out and remeasure where ever your CV starts binding. If you have stock rubber bushings in your LCAs you will have to push down on the control arms to get to that point. Think it was about 1/2" when I did that years ago.

 

The ADS shocks are actually a 7" travel shock with stroke limiters on all applications with the exception of the 07+ tundra which uses the full 7" of travel. This is with any of the current style shocks with the externally threaded top cap, the older style with the internally threaded top cap were a 6" travel shock.

If yours is a 1st gen, the ext travel shocks should be about 5" of travel, the second gens are about 4.75" of travel for the extended travel.

Not sure where the info came about saying Kings have more travel, but all the OEM style shocks are generally within a 1/4" of travel of each other.

As far as the compressed lengths, the standard ADS shocks are a race series shock, they use longer internal shaft spacers to increase the shaft stability at full droop. Their dimensions are better compared to any of the competitors race series shocks. The king prerunner series shocks are shorter compressed length than their race series. ADS also offers shortbody coilovers that use an externally threaded top cap and shortened midcap to get a smaller compressed length.

The 3.0 vs 2.5 coilover,

3.0 offers 40% more dampening capability than a 2.5 shock. It also allows for more shims to create a more progressive stack and make it more speed sensitive, so there is alot of benefits, larger shocks are not just to reduce "shock fade". These small travel shocks are also harder on oil as they spend so much time in a small area of travel, it creates more localized heat rather than cycling the oil frequently.

We are putting the 3.0s on my wifes 4runner as soon as we can get some coil springs made for the application, I wanted to make sure she could take the kids to school the exciting way, LOL.

 

Curious how stiff 3.0’s will be over 2.5’s without much weight added...just seems way overkill and that’s coming from a guy who visited Pismo doing dune and beach driving

 

size of shock has nothing to do with it. it will come down to valving and springs. no such thing as overkill

 

I love the fact ADS suspension is becoming more popular. I was scouring the forums months ago, looking for info on my current set up and had little luck. Glad to revisit this thread and see current gens running ADS!

 

Anybody looked at doing an ADS tundra rear shock like blackout did with the kings? I eventually Want to upgrade to ADS fronts but would probably also do the rears to replace the B110 with a. Custom leaf pack. Anyone know if this is possible and what length the tundra rear shocks are? It’s very hard to find specs on these.

 

ADS makes a 3.0 shock for our trucks?

 

So today I did the sway bar delete. Did a little slalom at about 35 mph down the paved section of my road and again after I had cranked up my clickers to just shy of max compression damping.

I’d say negligible difference in how the truck handled compared to with the sway bar on. There is a tad more nose dive on sharp turns under acceleration but the truck certainly doesn’t handle like a boat.

Will be leaving it off for a while for full evaluation.

@Theetrentmeister

 

Let us know how it turns out! I won't be putting it back on haha when driving I always have the thought of not having a sway bar in the back of my mind just so I don't make any sharp or sudden turns, even when I had my clickers set to 0 it wasn't a big difference I just had to get used to driving that way and the extra flex you get is substantial. There was sway bar disconnects being sold from a guy on the forum here who made them and they were around $200 but I decided I didn't need them.

 

It's like 6 bolts. I don't think disconnects would make it much easier.

 

Sway bar quick disconnects would help out a lot if someone wanted to keep their sway bar installed and not have to remove it every time that they want to leave the pavement.

 

Maybe this has already been answered somewhere but I can't find it... is there any reason why the piggyback rears couldn't be shipped w/ clickers?

I'm debating what to replace my Fox 2.0's with and while I like the idea of the LSC clickers, I've had them at 0 clicks (full soft) for many miles now and I don't feel the need to turn them up in the slightest on pavement.
So what that makes me think is either (A) clickers in the rear don't really make that much of a difference compared to the front or (B) I am well outside of the "optimal" damping curve for my setup.

Any thoughts?

 

I’m happy I went with clickers on all 4 corners. If you end up adding a bed rack or RTT at some point you are going to want to be able to stiffen them up a bit.

If you aren’t planning on any other weight than what you have back there now then save the $300 and buy the rest of those squadrons for your light bar

 

I've made this my pet project for a while now and it's got me stumped, even on a prerunner where I don't have to worry about clearing CV's...

There's plenty of ways to make it happen but they all seem to have some big disadvantage in either construction or ease of use that makes me go back to the drawing board.

I’m planning on a simple bed rack to relocate the spare, and maybe carry some gear like an air tank. So it might make sense for me to get clickers.

What I was curious about was if it were possible to put a clicker on the piggyback style.

See, the problem is my first experience with 2.5 shocks on the rear of a Taco was helping someone install King shocks, where there's this nice little bracket that bolts into factory holes to hold the resi, the fitting for the resi line perfectly radiuses around the shock mount, you bolt it all in easy peasy and it's a thing of beauty... it's just so delightfully well engineered.

And then I get my Foxes where it's like "here's this dipshit retard length hose, you can kink them to clear the e-brake cable, I guess, or try cutting your e brake cable stays off because Toyota probably just put them there for giggles." So what I want is no fuss, no drilling.