ADS Off-Road Racing Shocks - Information, Pictures, & BS Thread

@desertjunkie760 has helped me and others in the SD area sort out our rigs

 

Depends on the situation, but usually we would adjust valving to fit the spring rate

 

This ^.

Most consumers focus on the spring rate and try to compensate for valving, or lack their of. Many have been content with making a spring swap without a valving change because they don't know any better but to optimize your investment it's best to address both.

 

This ^.

 

So I guess this translates to "wait to buy shocks" rather than buy tuned shocks and just have to retune them again after a spring swap.

 

It's up to you. Like mentioned above, a lot of people assume a heavier spring rate is needed. Maybe you dont need a heavier rate, or maybe you like the way it rides with added weight... lots of variables. It's hard to predict your second mod, when you havn't even done the first one.

 

Depends on what your time frame is. There are service intervals on these performance shocks so if you're planning on building your rig in the next 3 months and less than 10k miles, sure, it may be worth waiting. If you're like the rest of us peasants where it'll be a continuous project to reach your "goal" then it would be worth making the purchase and addressing the changes as needed. There are too many variables to give a direct answer.

Either way its not uncommon for people to have their out of box shocks valved according to their specific application. That's the main benefit of ordering through @AccuTune Offroad as they offer this service prior to you even receiving the product. I realize they don't sell ADS, I'm just giving you a comparison.

 

Yeah, another thread would probably have been more appropriate rather than hijacking this one since the question was really framed around fox dsc shocks with accutune's specific flavor of tuning.

 

Meh,

I am speaking in generics. This principle applies to all aftermarket performance shocks really. Even the "gold plated" ADS shocks.

 

Exactly! I finally got my front shocks tuned for the weight and driving style. The difference is insane.

 

I was leaning towards the Ads shocks originally because sentiment on TW seems to be that they have better valving from the factory than fox or king. But it seems like after tuning they're all more or less comparable. So fox seemed like the obvious choice given a seemingly superior adjuster design rather than the single knob on both king and Ads.

 

Do you guys have a price list for tuning? Turn around...etc

 

Either way you go, you’re probably going to end up getting them revalved at some point anyway. Even if you get tuned suspension, there will be some things you may or may not like and will want some adjustments later on. It won’t be 100% perfect out of the box either way you go. Obviously tuned stuff gets you closer up front but still not perfectly suited to your particular driving style.

 

we've had issues on both the second and third gen with the exact same rubbing. no explanations found. did try tapping the sway bar slightly and not sure if helped or not much.( haven't rechecked it, I need to go and place some tape or paint to see if its still rubbing) My son spoke with someone at ADS and they said they have seen it in a few but seems to be inconsistent, meaning not any particular year or model etc. wondering if just some minor variations in the sway bar angle etc.... not a great answer but it is what we got.

 

Fair point as well.

 

https://accutuneoffroad.com/fox-vs-king-oem-coilovers/

https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/accutune-shock-rebuild/ Shoot us a message and we can help you out.

Totally true. Based off the vehicles weight and how you plan on using the vehicle, we can valve the shocks pretty close. Adjusters help with fine tuning. For much more precise tuning (off-road racing) we go out to the desert for on-site shock tuning. Not very realistic for Tacomas though.

 

Yes, as I specified in a later post, it’s a custom spec 8” ADS coilovers.

 

I’ve got my driver side on and I ended up cranking the collar 8 rotations from where it was set off the shelf, but only at 2” of lift, trying to get to 2.5”...

how much is too much when cranking down on the collar? I have 1-1/8” of threads exposed at this point, trying to decide if it’s worth going further. Each rotation is 1/16” it seems, by that math I need 4 more turns of the collar.

I’m using this punch and it’s working great, but the collar is really tight, so it’s a bitch without having the springs compressed.

$9 Mayhew Pro 21503 5/16" Black Oxide Extra-Long Pin Punch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BHQ0DI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Edit: I have an alignment scheduled later this week and planning on getting my 35’s mounted the same day, would like to get the height set prior to all this happening so I don’t have to redo the alignment later.

 

The collar isn't tight. You're fighting the spring. You should really use spring compressors if you're going up that much. What spring rate do you have? I'm surprised you're not already at 2.5" of lift. Also bear in mind that your passenger side will be 3/8"-1/2" less pre-load than the driver side.

 

700lb springs. I have a heavy front end. I ended up at 10 total rotations now on the driver side. I don’t have a spring compressor or access to one. And I’m not taking it back out to take it to a shop either.