ADS Off-Road Racing Shocks - Information, Pictures, & BS Thread

To be honest, I'm not sure. I didn't have torque specs or instructions. I just tightened the piss out of the top nut. Maybe somebody else can comment

 

You'll need to use an open end wrench or ratcheting box wrench on the nut, and a smaller wrench or djustable wrench on the flat tabs of the shaft sticking out of the top.

 

I had no issue getting mine tightened down, was more just commenting on how close the resi is to both the upper shock mount cup and the u-bolt plate. This is with the shock slightly turned outward (away from the mount).

 

I was thinking if it was tight enough, it wouldn't rotate and smack the frame or shock mount

 

That’s a good point. There is a lot of resistance if I try to grab and turn them. I suppose that’s good. the lower shock mount pretty much touches the round flange on the actual shock under articulation. there’s nothing I can do about that, though.

 

@Traction So how's the ride? You got front and rears now right?

 

Just rears installed, fronts are hanging out on my bench. I’ll get them and the upper arms on this week! so far, though, the rear is noticeably more
dampened, not harsh but you can definitely tell they’re there.

 

Has anyone gone from kings to ADS? Thinking about selling my front ADS shocks

 

Ive gone from ads to kings to ads.
Ive had kings and ads on my current truck.
On an old truck I have a buddy had the same truck. He had kings, I had ads. There is a reason I am always going back to ADS. I am only debating Kings for my yukon XL because I cant talk them into building me a 3.0F and 3.0 rear

 

When I bought them last year I bought what was available at the time and it was 650 spring rate non adjusters but I wanted 700 with adjusters, now I know the price for replacing the springs but converting them to have the adjusters I figure to be costly

 

In. Only hiccup was ADS had the preload and coil overs set and marked incorrectly. Not a huge prob, just had to reset preload and install each coil over on the opposite side it was labeled.

 

UPDATE: Truck drives really nice. The Front swaybar is really close to the bottom coilover bucket, its going to hit on both sides, even with the relocation blocks installed. This is slightly concerning because I am not sure where I can gain more clearance. Also, with previous coilovers the bottom mounting bushings typically include a longer and shorter in order to push the coilover back at its base. The ADS coilovers came with equal sized bushings, is this normal? Any ideas?

 

Don’t be afraid to give it a test run without the sway bar. It’s not for everybody, but I’ve been running without a sway bar for about 20 months now and it’s been doing great.

My lower bushings are the same length of both sides as far as I can tell. Haven’t had any issues thus far with anything hitting.

 

My sway bar was interfering with the radiator brackets and the lower end link bolt was hitting the coil spring even with the relocation. I yanked it out and I'll probably keep it out. Rides cherry with heavy springs.

 

I saw this chick on YouTube put some heat shrink on the resi bands. Pretty good idea I thought.

 

Thanks for the tip and for having a look at your bushings. I have run no swaybar in the past, its not bad but I would like to see if I can make this function before removing it. I will experiment a bit in coming days and report back.

 

I can sell you off set lower spacers if you need the extra clearance.

 

I already have lower spacers installed, or are you referring to something other than what I have?

 

These are what Icon uses and will install in your lower shock mount to move it to the rear to help clear your sway bar.

https://www.303shockservices.com/product-page/icon-spacer-kit

 

Front and rears showed up on Saturday. Installing these bad boys tomorrow.