ADS Off-Road Racing Shocks - Information, Pictures, & BS Thread

Hey everyone!!! Look at how small Bert's shaft is!!! Hahahahah.


For srs tho, I thought extended shocks were just a bit longer, not 3"

 

Negative. If you're a lifted truck the axle bump zone doesn't change, and you'll actually gain travel with the longer shock and full leaf pack (provided it isn't a thick pack). Whereas with the smaller shock you'll trade droop for bump. Everyone likes to read "fits tacoma" and just throw the shock in there instead measuring at ride height to bump.

 

Not quite... he was using my piggy back shock while his remote reservoir shock was getting tuned.

 

I had to send my RR back for a revalve and borrowed the others for a week. 10/10 do not recommend going backwards like that

 

Yea just curious as this was a talking point in one of our sales meetings recently.

 

Aside from the obvious lack of adjusters, is there a loss in performance with piggybacks vs remote reservoirs?

 

In short, it has more to do with where the oil is going to the reservoir from the shock body, not a piggyback vs remote reservoir. In this case, it's a bottom take off piggyback reservoir vs your typical remote reservoir coming off the top. The way the piston/valving/oil flows on a bottom take off makes the shock a lot firmer. This is definitely on my list of graphics to make to help explain it better.

 

so knowing this. When it comes to external reservoir shocks and having the large range of adjustability in the firmness…wouldn’t it be logical to have a slightly lower LB rating coil and firm up the shocks just so you can have a super soft shock rather than harder with the lower rating coil? Or, are coil weight ratings just to support the weight of the front of the truck? (Hope that made sense)

basically reason for my question,
I’m looking to go from a 700# ext coil to a 650# ext coil on my truck because I feel I cannot get a super soft setting when the reservoirs are fully set to soft.
Would that 50lbs difference be noticeable on the soft end?

pic of my setup

 

Yes, we typically shoot for the lightest spring rate possible and tune the shock accordingly. Most of the ride quality you experience in the driver seat comes from the valving, not the coil spring rate. From what I see (steel bumper, winch, sliders), a 14" x 600lb is what you want on that truck, I would not go to a lower rate.

 

Would a 650# be ok? I only lift about 1.5”-1.75” (about 7/8” of threads showing). My battery is slightly larger(AGM). I just don’t want any sag and have experienced that with 600# coils. I’m ok with a tad firmer coil for the street as well

 

Sorry! I totally misread that. Thought you said 600 --> 650. Yes, going from 700 to 650 would be ok, but like I mentioned the valving is usually what you notice most. Adjusting preload is 100% ok as long as its not too much, and you risk coil bind. Lots of details in regards to that can be found here.

 

Hello just got my fronts installed the other day. I have a low profile c4 bumper which caused issues for mounting. My right reservoir i believe is hitting my tire… any suggestions…

 

i have the same bumper with no issues. Taking pics would be best so we can help you through it

 

if you can see one res has a scratch already on it. Looks like the mounts stick out a little to far… if pictures show

 

i don’t see how the bumper is affecting the reservoirs…? You are way far away from the bumper. Are you saying the UCA is rubbing? I just don’t see how anything is making contact. Perhaps you could switch holes to move it where the spacer is placed on the from where the sway bar would mount

 

Im not 100% sure if the resi’s are rubbing or not… i dont think my uca’s are rubbing because i had no issues prior to my old suspension. Plus i have spacers on my wheels. Also i’d like to increase mt lift. What “settings” do you recommend? Lookint for 2-2.5” lift

 

i am not a big fan of wheel spacers. I think they can do more harm than good and are a form over function sort of thing. Plus, having the tires stick way out past the fenders has always baffled me why people think it’s cool…since it’s more of a hazard for other drivers and can ruin your paint over time…why? If that’s the look one wants then at least be responsible and put correct mud flaps or other things to protect the truck and other drivers.

that being said, I prefer 2” of lift max and having about 3-3.5 degrees of caster. I offroad my truck (more fast trail driving than crawling) and tow over 4000lbs with it. I only have about 7/8” of threads showing and run ext travel coils which are 1” longer than stock.

your setup looks correct, and also may need a little time to break in. This is what mine looks like with 1.75” of front lift and about 2.5” rear. Zero rub, zero vibes. With 255/75/17’s

 

I understand. I have 285/75/16 i feel like my front end is about a 1” lift. Idk im rubbing a little but idk where lol. I do offroad some aggressive trails but no rock crawling.

 

the spacers might be giving you some rub, and/or you don’t have enough caster. Most people with 285’s do the cab mount chop and weld. Is that where you are rubbing? Or, in your pic are you saying the tire is rubbing your res?

 

Im

im at black rock in Nevada right now. I think im rubbing on my fenders honestly. I’ll probably just trim them all around just so i dont have to work about it anymore