ADS Off-Road Racing Shocks - Information, Pictures, & BS Thread

I’ve heard that adjusting the preload without unloading the spring could cause the threads to strip. That’s why I didn’t force it. I assume no one that has this issue? I guess the split nut can open up and jump the threads.

 

I shared the same concern however I didn’t experience any issues. Checked and double checked during the entire process and all my threads were healthy. I think I can attribute that to the egregious amount of lube I used.

 

Spray lube the threads top and bottom, spring perch, and any other point that may move. Loosen the set screw until it is coming out easily, then thread it back in until you have to use a slight bit of force. Then first loosen the preload ring to break it free from the threads, then you should be able to tighten. If you have too much preload, then you will have some difficulty adjusting. ADS is not very specific on their max pre load as other manufacturers are.

 

I have the 650lb coils and when we first dialed in some more preload we used a spanner wrench AND a punch (working around the remote reservoir line was a pain in the ass!). We lubed the crap out of the coils first. It wasn't easy but we managed without any cheater bars. This was right after they were installed. It's been 6mos now and I'd like to add a little more preload and I'm wondering if it's going to be harder this time.
ADS told me me this..."For every 3 clockwise rotations you should gain 1/2" of lift. We like to measure the full installed length of the spring at full extension to determine the exact preload. The coil spring free length should be 14". We wouldn't recommend going further than 11.75" installed length."

 

Sounds like I will wait to get al at once. Thanks

 

Good to know. I can imagine that for 700# coils, the installed length is less.

 

Did what you all suggested. Worked perfectly. Lubed it well and kept the pinch bolt snug. Got 3 full turns in them pretty easily.

 

So I apologize in advance if this is covered, I tried searching through the thread and probably just missed it.

I'm putting extended 2.5s with 700# springs on my truck tomorrow. I currently have OMEs with #650s and they sagged a noticeable bit when I put my bumper/winch on, and I dont like that. I need every bit of lift I can get in the front cause I'm on 35s and wheel. Does anyone else with the extended #700s have numbers on how many threads they have showing and what height that got them?

Also, I ordered the ADS spanner wrench instead of trying to use a punch to adjust things, I'm guessing with enough WD40 and a length of pipe I should be able to adjust preload with the springs on the truck.

 

I'll take a look at my setup once I get off work. If I remember correctly I only had to adjust the passenger 4 full turns and the driver 6 full turns from the stock setting with 700 lb coils. This gave me the lift I wanted of about 2.5 inches from stock. I'll get you a thread count from the top of the shock and measurements from the center cap to the bottom of my fender later today.

 

Interested in your measurements as well. I've added 6 turns more to the driver side and it's still 1/4" lower than the passenger side.

 

So here’s my numbers. Height is measured from center of hub to the bottom of the stock, uncut fender flare.

Driver: 22 1/2 inches w/ 12 threads


Passenger: 22 5/8 inches w/ 6 threads


@jowybyo @Jibbs

 

Noted for future.

 

Thanks. I have 7 and 13 threads, but my measurements aren't quite as close as yours. I have about 1/4" difference. I don't have fender flares so my hub to fender measurements are a bit different.

Do you have skid plates and a winch in your bumper?

 

I’ve got an aluminum winch bumper with a winch and rock sliders. Skids are in the works. Just waiting on my new Hobart 210 to show up.

 

Nice. First welder?

 

Yep. First one. I’ve been doing mechanical design at work the past couple years and have been wanting to dive in to actual fabrication. So this should be interesting.

 

I think I read about this before.

Anyone know if the piggy back rears I think they are 2.5s, bolt in with out having to notch, or modify the rear shock mount?

 

They are built for the stock mounts so I would assume so.

To anybody else, I am going to run the 2.125's 12" smooth bodies on a BAMF shock relocation in the rear. Has anybody on here done this? I'm curious if then the piggyback can become an issue.

 

The smooth body or a remote should work no problem but the BAMF kit doesn't play well with piggybacks.

 

That is what I thought. So I'll have to custom order with a remote resi.