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AdventureTaco - turbodb's build and adventures

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by turbodb, Apr 4, 2017.

  1. Oct 30, 2017 at 10:08 PM
    #221
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    Was that process with the duratracs (31s) on or the KM2s (33s)?
     
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  2. Oct 30, 2017 at 10:12 PM
    #222
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    I guess I am thinking of when that deer/elk/or the fucking idiot texting forces a hard braking situation. My truck is becoming severely lacking in that situation.

    Purely subjective. i wasn't asking Dan to speak globally, for everyone, only about what he knows of his truck and compare that.
     
    turbodb [OP] likes this.
  3. Oct 30, 2017 at 10:18 PM
    #223
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    I gotcha, around PHX area I find I have to emergency brake a lot more often haha, lots of sunbaked octogenarians that think the blinker is an automatic license to change lanes. Cruiser emergency brakes like you wouldn't believe and can swerve great without lots of body roll. The Taco.... well that has armor instead, it can swerve great but the brakes tend to lock in the rear so it can get tail happy fast haha. My point about comparing brakes is it really isn't applicable for anyone but that person, especially with all the unsafe shit we pile on top of our trucks haha. Seriously looks like those brakes broke in perfect though, great job @turbodb, only ever bothered bedding in my old Maxima never even thought to do it with my Taco.
     
  4. Oct 30, 2017 at 10:20 PM
    #224
    turbodb

    turbodb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking about this too as I typed that last reply. Even with my own truck, the situation when I was bedding is different than when I'm loaded for a trip. Bedding I had the CVT, hi-lift, shower (still full from The De-Tour!, need to empty that thing), recovery kit, and two people in the cab. So, probably a couple hundred pounds less in the bed than on a trip, but similar in-cab weight. Still, did quite well.

    Process was with the KM2's. The Duratracs are off forever, since they're on 15" rims, and won't fit the calipers! Let me tell you something about those - they are not good for my gas mileage. Shocking, I know! :)
     
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  5. Oct 30, 2017 at 10:20 PM
    #225
    m3bassman

    m3bassman Well-Known Member

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    Looks great Dan!
     
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  6. Oct 30, 2017 at 10:23 PM
    #226
    TACOVRD

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  7. Oct 30, 2017 at 10:24 PM
    #227
    Digiratus

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    So a significant increase in unsprung weight will also change the braking performance. Really is like comparing apples to oranges.
     
  8. Oct 30, 2017 at 10:27 PM
    #228
    turbodb

    turbodb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Totally - that's why I wish I'd done the test with the Tacoma brakes and 31" wheel setup - because ultimately the idea is to improve braking performance of the vehicle, whatever the setup. Regardless, I am quite happy with the result - as I mentioned, braking with the new setup was surprisingly fast!
     
  9. Oct 30, 2017 at 10:32 PM
    #229
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    Good to hear. This will be my primary reason for doing the brake upgrade.
     
  10. Oct 31, 2017 at 7:47 AM
    #230
    SwampYota

    SwampYota Well-Known Member

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    Good write up. What kind of problems have you heard about with the Callahan’s? I’ve been eyeballing a set but if there’s issues I'll look at other options.
     
  11. Oct 31, 2017 at 8:53 AM
    #231
    turbodb

    turbodb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Ben!

    :thumbsup:

    For sure. And, I know you're thinking the same route with parts - these all went together really easily as well. I bet we can do yours in a morning or afternoon.

    A few things - there've been a few folks who ran into machining issues with the calipers (for instance, the bolt holding the banjo not screwing in all the way). Looking at the castings of the rotors, the OEM ones have much cleaner casts. And, I'm not a huge fan of the "perforated performance" rotors - just seems like more places for dirt/mud to build up when on the trail. At any rate, it ~doubles the cost to do it the way I did, but I figure that this is a long-term investment, and is a major safety item...so do it right.
     
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  12. Oct 31, 2017 at 9:21 AM
    #232
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    Thanks. I will begin collecting the parts soon but I don't think the install will happen before the holidays.
     
  13. Oct 31, 2017 at 9:22 AM
    #233
    turbodb

    turbodb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No rush. From a priority perspective, I'd rather see your pics from The De-Tour anyway! :boink: :D
     
  14. Oct 31, 2017 at 9:25 AM
    #234
    Digiratus

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    :D :luvya:
     
  15. Nov 2, 2017 at 10:09 AM
    #235
    turbodb

    turbodb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Adding a Ram Mount to the #%@#$@! A-pillar.
    November 1, 2017.

    I've always hated the A-pillars in my truck. Actually, it's the trim I hate. And I've hated it since I first tried (and failed) to remove it several years ago to run the wire for a microphone from my head unit up to the rearview mirror.

    See, to remove the A-pillar trip, you also need to remove the grab handle. And for some reason, in 1997-2000 Tacoma's, the grab handle is attached with two M6 screws (no hex head) with a JIS head. That JIS head looks a lot like a Philips head, but it isn't, and I of course don't have a JIS driver.

    So I use Philips, and hope.

    Or rather, I generally try to avoid removal.

    In fact, several years ago when I failed at removing the grab handle because I could tell the screw head was going to strip, I even went so far as to purchase some M6 socket button head screws that I could use to replace the OEM ones. But I never installed them because, well, that would require messing with the A-pillar.

    But today I decided it was time to mount a 1" Ram mount ball on the driver side A-pillar. I needed it for some communication equipment, and frankly, it was time to fix the problem once and for all.

    I was able to get the first screw out! The head didn't look great, but it held long enough to back out. Maybe I could do this.

    [​IMG]

    But the second head was already a bit mangled from my attempt years ago. Almost immediately, it completely stripped out. Semi-expected, I retrieved my drill, a bit to drill out the head, and my screw extractors.

    But then there was another problem. I couldn't fit the drill+bit into the head of the screw because the steering wheel was in the way. So, out came the steering wheel…which of course also means the airbag had to come out, and I risked re-installing the steering wheel "off-a-tooth" when putting it back on.

    Then, I drilled out the head of the screw and screwed in the extractor.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And then, even though I'd used a small extractor, the head broke off. At least that mean that the grab handle was free! Of course, it also meant that I still needed to get the screw shank out. So it was back to drilling and "extracting." Except the extracting didn't work - I just couldn't get the screw to back out. Eventually, I drilled out enough of the shank that it just "fell out." And by that point, a couple hours had passed, and tools had been gathered.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The next step was to remove the A-pillar trim, so I could run wiring cleanly to the Ram mount. I did everything by the book - went slowly, pried carefully. I only broke one clip. "Meh success," I guess. #%@#$@! A-pillar

    [​IMG]

    Now it was time to figure out how to attach the Ram mount. It wouldn't "just fit" because it's an M8 bolt, so I was either going to grind down and rethread the bolt, or I was going to drill out the A-pillar a bit more and re-tap it for the larger M8 bolt.

    Ultimately, I decided to re-tap the A-pillar which ended up being a good (easier) idea.

    [​IMG]

    Then, I ran some wires - a USB cable for power, and shielded CAT6 for the Ham radio - up from the dash and behind the A-pillar trim using a fish tape, and then re-attached the trim without incident. I also notched (by melting, which worked great!) the trim just a bit so the cables could snake out behind the grab handle.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And then, it was time to attach the Ram mount. I needed it to be slightly prouder than it would naturally sit, and a stainless steel nut, ground down slightly to fit within the grab handle, was just the ticket. Here's how everything went together, and then it screwed right in.

    [​IMG]

    In the end, I'm super happy with the result. It looks amazingly clean and is going to be perfect for either a cell phone or Ham radio controller.

    [​IMG]

    #%@#$@! A-pillar. Glad I should never have to deal with it again.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2018
  16. Nov 2, 2017 at 10:26 AM
    #236
    m3bassman

    m3bassman Well-Known Member

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    Now imagine removing that trim when you don't have a grab handle like the 01's.....

    Solid install nonetheless! :thumbsup:
     
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  17. Nov 8, 2017 at 6:30 PM
    #237
    turbodb

    turbodb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Where are you? Adding APRS to the Ham Radio Comms
    November 5, 2017.

    It wasn't all that long ago that I got my Ham radio license and installed an Icom-5100 in the truck. A great radio, it's gone now - because a great radio isn't all I need; I need a great radio that can also do APRS.

    What's APRS and why's it so important?

    Great question, let's start there!

    APRS is the "Automatic Packet Reporting System," a machine-parsable protocol used on a known frequency (144.390 in the US) to send all kinds of information from one ham radio to another. But the reason I care about it is that it's can be used to report position information for a mobile ham station. With that position information, others locally (within range of your broadcast), as well as remotely (once your broadcast is received by an internet-connected receiver) can see where you are, and where you've been.

    [​IMG]

    That's especially useful for someone who does a lot of remote adventuring for two reasons:
    1. When you go out adventuring with others, you can all see where each other are on a map (without having internet connectivity, since the communication happens through the ham radios)
    2. When you go out adventuring, people "at home" can monitor where you are - even if you don't have cell service. And, there are ways to communicate from ham radio to cellular text (and vice versa) should something go wrong.
    So, as much as I liked the interface on the Icom-5100, it was time for it to go - because there wasn't a great way to get it to do APRS.

    Why not? What do you need "to do APRS"?

    Another great question. You are a savvy reader. Bringing your A-game as it were.

    To do APRS, you need a little device called a TNC that is essentially like an old dial-up modem. (Remember those weird tones - you know "Pshhhkkkkkkrrrrkakingkakingkakingtshchchchchchchchcch*ding*ding*ding"?) The TNC is sending your position data in those tones to all the other ham radios within range. So you need a radio that the TNC can "plug into, and send the tones through."

    Now, there are lots of different TNCs, and there's probably one that worked with the Icom-5100, but I had more requirements - specifically two:
    1. I didn't want to spend too much money on the TNC. (I already spent a lot on the ham radio.)
    2. I wanted to use a tablet in the truck to show a map of where APRS signals were coming from (like the one above).
    So that pretty much meant that there was only one TNC that I could really use - the Mobilinkd TNC2. Conveniently, the way Mobilinkd works, it requires a connection to an Android tablet (generally running APRSDroid) which is where position information is retrieved from - via the tablet's GPS, as well as where other users' positions are sent - and displayed on a map.

    Perfect!

    Except now I needed a ham radio that would work with Mobilinkd (because it doesn't work with the Icom-5100).

    Of course, there are lots of those too, but I've been spoiled with the Icom, so I wanted a dual band mobile receiver with a detachable control panel, and a relatively high-resolution display (not just calculator-style numbers). That narrowed the field considerably to something like the Yaesu FTM-400XDR or the Kenwood TM-D710G, since other front-runners like the Kenwood TM-V71A have all the necessary functionality, but not a great display.

    In the end, I "traded" the Icom-5100 for a Kenwood TM-D710G - and by "traded," I mean that I sold the Icom for the same price I paid for the Kenwood - not a bad deal if you can get it.

    [​IMG]

    I was pleasantly surprised by all the goodness that came with the Kenwood. Unlike the Icom, it came with a mounting bracket for both the receiver and control head - so I got started by mounting the bracket under the passenger seat, and then mounting the radio in the bracket - so much nicer than the Icom, which I just left on the rug under the seat!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The rest of the cabling (antenna, power, etc.) was all pretty much the same, so I was able to utilize all of the existing wiring - woohoo!

    [​IMG]

    Bolting the seat back in was all that was necessary to complete the setup of the radio, which is now up and out of the way under the passenger seat.

    [​IMG]

    The head unit got mounted on the new Ram mount I installed, just left of the steering wheel, and below the dash line.

    [​IMG]

    Of course, I also had to buy a Mobilinkd TNC2 and miniDIN-6 data cable to make the whole system work (the way I wanted). This is an "optional" step, since the Kenwood has APRS functionality natively built-in to the radio - but a good one because while the Kenwood APRS tells you "who's out there" and their direction away from you, it doesn't have a map view.

    And I wanted a map view. Really, we all want a map view.

    [​IMG]

    Once I had everything, I was ready to install, which is super simple. First, I ran a USB power cable from the dash to the area under the passenger seat where the ham radio now lives and plugged it into the TNC2. Then, I plugged the MiniDIN-6 data cable into the Kenwood D710G's "DATA" port, and the 3.5mm plug into the TNC.

    Install complete!

    [​IMG]

    Finally, it was time for configuration of the radio and TNC. I stumbled my way through this part by reading various other folks experiences, so I don't know if this is the optimal configuration - but it works for me for now. I'll likely tweak it over time as I figure out how often this is trying to send my beacon (position) information. Configuration is done with two pieces of software on an Android device (that supports Bluetooth):
    Use the Mobilinkd TNC Config first, to do the following (much of this from the User Guide)
    1. Start the Mobilinkd TNC Config app.
    2. Press the button on the front briefly to turn on TNC. The blue LED will flash rapidly.
    3. On the Android device, tap the app menu (3 dots) and select "Bluetooth Settings."
    4. Scan for Bluetooth devices and connect to "Mobilinkd TNC2". Use password "1234" when prompted.
    5. Go back to the main screen of the app and press the "Connect" button; select "Mobilinkd TNC2" from the listed devices, if necessary.
    6. If you want the TNC to turn on/off automatically when USB has power (if you switch your power with the ignition, for instance), tap on the Power Settings and check the "Power on/off with USB Power" option.
    7. Leave everything else as-is and close the Mobilinkd TNC config app (the TNC only supports one BT connection at a time)
    Next, configure APRSDroid to send and receive position data through the TNC2:
    1. Start APRSDroid on your Android device.
    2. Go to App menu | Preferences and set the following settings (everything else you can leave as default):
      1. Callsign (without SSID) - set your callsign.
      2. SSID - set your SSID to "9".
      3. APRS digi path - "WIDE1-1,WIDE2-1"
      4. Connection preferences
        1. Connection Protocol - set to "TNC (KISS)"
        2. Connection Type - set to "Bluetooth SPP"
        3. TNC Bluetooth Device - choose "Mobilinkd TNC"
      5. APRS symbol - choose your favorite
      6. Voice frequency - set the frequency that you're listening to for ham radio transmissions
      7. Comment field - enter the comment you want sent with every position report
      8. Location settings - ensure it's set to "SmartBeaconing"
    That's it - everything's configured and ready to go. To start tracking your position (and seeing other people's position), back out to the main app screen and tap on "Start Tracking." Now, you can use any of the three main screens to see APRS information.

    The List screen shows all of the APRS stations (radios) that are broadcasting. You can tap on a station to see more information and communicate directly with that station.

    [​IMG]

    The Map screen shows all of the APRS stations that are broadcasting on a map. This is the screen we want most of the time!

    [​IMG]

    The Log screen shows all of the APRS information that is being sent/received, and can be useful when debugging cases where data may seem to be missing.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2018
  18. Nov 8, 2017 at 8:18 PM
    #238
    Glenn_R

    Glenn_R The Unicorn Turd Gen

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    @turbodb Nice write up on APRS. I have the same radio and love it's ease of use and built in GPS and TNC. I was hoping there was a way to just provide APRSDroid or similar client the data from the TM-D710G without the need to use another TNC. I have searched the internet without find a solution. Just don't understand why we can't just have the TNC data from the radio displayed on a map. Sounds easy, but guess it is not.
     
  19. Nov 8, 2017 at 8:51 PM
    #239
    turbodb

    turbodb [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think it's possible, it's just not as easy as getting Mobilinkd setup. Check out this thread on the APRSDroid dev forum. If you get it working, let me know - 'cause I agree that it'd be nicer to use the built-in TNC.
     
  20. Nov 8, 2017 at 9:06 PM
    #240
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 v6 Auto Trans With Lots of Mods King Extended Travel COs Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Alcan Custom 8-Leaf Rear Spring Packs Fox 2.0 Resi Rear Shocks FrankenFab Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren bumps Toytec 1" Extended Shackle 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 285/75r16 Cooper STT Pros Limited Edition Relentless Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch 3" LED Pods w/Amber covers in the Bumper 22" Single Row LED Bar on the Bumper Mini D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4500K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Whynter 65 qt. Fridge/Freezer CVT Mt Bachelor RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack GM 140 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Magnaflow 18" Muffler 13WL Brake Calipers Braided Steel Brake Lines AFE Pro Dry S air filter ScanGauge II OBDII Scanner Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio Larson 70CM/2M Antenna Uniden 520xl CB radio 3' Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    Speaking of TNC settings, next time you are in Powell, Steve can tweak those setting with some of those gadgets he has. Did mine and it seemed to help some
     
    turbodb [OP] likes this.

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