AdventureTaco - turbodb's build and adventures

Ditching My ARB Fridge for a Dometic
May 21, 2023

When I showed up in Las Vegas for Three Days of R&R, I followed my usual procedures, picking up the Tacoma from storage, turning on the various systems, and then heading to the grocery store to provision my ARB fridge with a few days' worth of food.


My ARB Fridge Bites the Dust
As I was stopped for gas on my way to Utah, I happened to glance at the control panel for the fridge and noticed that it hadn't gotten any cooler than when I'd turned it on a couple hours earlier. No bueno. Thinking that there might just be some electrical glitch, I turned it off for 10 minutes, then turned it back on and continued on my way for another hour. Knowing that I'd need a solution, I pulled over at the last grocery store along my route, and sure enough, the temperature still hadn't dropped. Dang!

My $1000 ARB fridge, now a glorified ice chest.​

Ultimately, the ARB worked great as an ice chest for the entire Utah trip, and after I got home, I promptly set it aside for a few days to focus on a kitchen remodel that we have ongoing. Eventually though, our next trip - Idaho-whyee - was just around the corner and I needed to get a solution figure out. I started - as would seem reasonable - by contacting ARB support and letting them know what was going on.

From: Dan
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2023 20:21
To: ARB Tech <tech@arbusa.com>
Subject: RE: ARB 50qt Fridge/freezer issue

Evening,

I wanted to reach out because I just got back from a trip where my ARB 50qt Fridge/freezer failed while I was on the trail, and I’d like to figure out the best way to get it fixed or replaced.

I go on trips pretty regularly - generally for 3-7 days, approximately every couple of weeks. Between each trip I empty and clean the fridge, and leave it open so that it doesn’t develop mildew or anything. On my last trip (I departed on Wed 4/19 and returned today, Sunday 4/23), followed my usual procedure of taking the fridge to my truck, powering it on (12v), and loading it up before taking off for SE Utah.

A few hours into the journey, I just happened to glance at the temp on the fridge - not sure why, I don’t generally check it, as it’s performed pretty well as long as I’ve had it, except for the issue I contacted you guys about below) - and I noticed that it hadn’t dropped at all from when I’d loaded up.

I made sure the fan was on (it was), and the temp was correctly set to 37°F (it was), and decided to give it another hour. After that hour, it still wasn’t cooling, so I was forced to stop at a local Albertsons to grab a couple of 10lbs blocks of ice, converting my fridge into a cooler for the rest of the trip.

As soon as I got home, I took a bit of a closer look. I don’t see any broken wires, the fan comes on (with both 12v DC and 120v AC), and the control panel still “works” - the light is green when it’s trying to cool, no flashing red light, etc. but it is not cooling at all.

What would you guys suggest?

Thanks much,
Dan​

My hope was that they'd get back to me quickly, and suggest that I bring it in to an ARB service center somewhere in the Pacific Northwest, where they could take a look at it and - hopefully - fix it for me for less than the price of a new fridge. Because really, this one has been pretty great up until this point.

Unfortunately, I didn't hear back quickly, so five days later, I reached out again.

From: Dan
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2023 12:14
To: 'Technical Support' <tech@arbusa.com>
Subject: RE: [Request received]

Afternoon folks,

Just wanted to reach out since I hadn’t heard back on this. I’m sure you are busy, but just wanted to make sure it wasn’t lost in the shuffle.

Cheers,
Dan​

With a kitchen remodel going on at home, I had other things on my mind, and it wasn't for another two weeks until I finally heard back from ARB:

From: Don (Technical Support) <tech@arbusa.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2023 14:46
To: Dan
Subject: [ARBUSA] Re: RE: ARB 50qt Fridge/freezer issue

Your request (18199) has been updated. To add additional comments, reply to this email.

Hello Dan,

Have you turned off the fridge and let it sit for an hour and then plugging the system back in on AC and see if it does the same? This can sometimes reset the system.

As for the issue you're experiencing, I suggest that you reach out to a small appliance shop that deals with fridges or a dealer that sells ARB products to help diagnose. There may be several factors that could cause the problem, and diagnosing them is best done in person. Unfortunately, being a remote team, we're unable to pinpoint the exact cause of the issue.

What I can provide you with is the troubleshoot manual for your reference. This provides a flow chart and troubleshoot steps that can help pin point what part that may need to be replaced on the fridge if applicable.

We appreciate your understanding and hope you're able to find a solution soon.

Best regards,
D - ARB Technical Support​

Since I was hoping to take it in, rather than try to figure it all out myself, I asked if there was somewhere ARB would recommend:

From: Dan
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2023 17:25
To: Technical Support <tech@arbusa.com>
Subject: Re: [ARBUSA] Re: RE: ARB 50qt Fridge/freezer issue

Thanks Don, do you have a place that you guys recommend near Seattle, Washington?

Cheers, Dan​

From: Don (Technical Support) <tech@arbusa.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2023 08:03
To: Dan
Subject: [ARBUSA] Re: RE: ARB 50qt Fridge/freezer issue

Your request (18199) has been updated. To add additional comments, reply to this email.

Hello Dan,

We currently have no recommendations unfortunately. We would recommend reaching out to an appliance shop that works on fridges that would be able to look into your issues.

You can also go to our website on ARBUSA.com and look under Find a Dealer and this will show all of our ARB shops near your area. They should be able to point you the right direction.

Best Regards​

Disappointed that I wasn't getting anywhere, I pulled out my tools and multimeter and set to work troubleshooting the fridge as outlined in the Service Manual that Don had sent my direction, compiling the results so I could give him more information for a diagnosis:

From: Dan
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2023 09:10
To: Technical Support <tech@arbusa.com>
Subject: RE: [ARBUSA] Re: RE: ARB 50qt Fridge/freezer issue

Ron, using the service manual you provided (thank you), I have some additional information that I hope helps:

• 
  
  
  • It seems to me that the compressor is not actually turning on after I left the fridge for1 hour, then plugged it into AC power. The front control panel was set to 37°F, and it was 60°F in the room, and the cooling fan came on, but I never heard the compressor kick in (after waiting for about a minute). The entire time, the green light was illuminated on the front control panel (as if it was working correctly), with no flashing lights indicating errors. (NOTE: after running the tests below, I think the compressor did actually come on but this was my impression initially.)

Given that, I proceeded into the service manual:

8.2 - skipped this test, as I was using A/C power at this point.

8.3 - Test main circuit board - 100-240V AC
* result: 122V AC measured between input “L” and “N” and output “L” and “N” -- good
*** Test Pass - the main circuit board has now been eliminated as a possible fault.

8.4 - Test compressor control unit - 100-240V AC
* result: 122V AC measured between terminals “L” and “N” on the compressor control unit -- good
* result: 13V DC measured between terminals “A” and “C” on the compressor control unit -- good
*** Test Pass - The compressor control unit has now been eliminated as a possible fault

8.5 Test compressor (windings)
* result: 2.5ohms between center and left pins -- good
* result: 2.5ohms between center and right pins -- good
*** Test pass - compressor windings are OK.

8.6 Test thermistor (my fridge has the thermistor connected directly to CN7 on the main PCB)
* result: Ambient temperature of 60°F, 13.6kohm on thermistor -- good (between 8-14kohm)
*** Test pass - the thermistor is functioning correctly.

With all those tests coming out good, I went back to test 8.2 to recheck the compressor control board and compressor.

8.2 Test compressor control unit - 12/24V DC
* result: When terminals “T” and lower “C” were connected, the cooling fan and compressor turned on. (Neither was on prior to connecting the two terminals.) -- good
*** Test pass - The compressor control unit has now been eliminated as a possible fault. (again)

So, it seems that there are no faults in the system, and yet it is not cooling at all. With that information, do you have any further recommendations as to steps to take prior to my having to pay out of pocket to go to a third party? And, if the problem does turn out to be a leak in the refrigerant system, is there any way to fix that, short of purchasing a new refrigerator?

Thanks,
-d​

And Don's final reply:

From: Don (Technical Support) <tech@arbusa.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2023 09:25
To: Dan
Subject: [ARBUSA] Re: RE: ARB 50qt Fridge/freezer issue

Your request (18199) has been updated. To add additional comments, reply to this email.

Hi Dan,

From what it sounds like is that you may have a leak in the system like you have stated. Though being remote I cannot confirm this. I highly recommend reaching out to a repair technician that feels confident on sourcing the problem. If it is the compressor Im afraid you may have to get a new unit.

Hope you're able to find a solution soon.

Best regards,
D - ARB Technical Support​

Don was polite enough, but quite unhelpful through the whole process and this left me with a bit of a sour taste in my mouth when it came to my ARB fridge. Even with that sour taste though, I knew I needed a new fridge, and when considering quality fridges, there were really only two brands - ARB and Dometic - that were at the top of my list.


My Fridge Options

Now in the market for a new fridge, I really only considered a couple of options.

1. Picking up another identical ARB 47L Classic Series Fridge - a black and grey version of the blue-and-grey fridge that's worked so well for the last several years.
2. Going with a similarly sized Dometic CFX3-45. Also black and grey, it has a great repuation on the market, and two of my buddies really like theirs.

With similar specs, the price and warranty differences pushed me over to Dometic.​

Dometic First Impressions
I haven't yet used the Dometic, so these impressions are based on my unboxing and running the fridge next to my desk for a few hours to make sure that it cooled before taking it out on the trail. I'll be sure to update them after my upcoming trip to Nevada, and again in about a year.

My actual fridges, side by side.​

What I like

• The cost. I was able to pick up a Dometic for significantly (about 30%) less than the ARB fridge.
• It uses the same 12V and 120V plugs as the ARB fridge, so I don't need to rework any of the wiring on the Tacoma.
  
  
  
  I was very happy to see that the inputs were identical.​
• The footprint is a similar size - just slightly wider and slightly shorter than the ARB, so it'll fit in my existing fridge slide.
• It's a little bit shorter than the ARB fridge, so if I can find the time, I will be able to lower the height of my bed rack a few inches, bringing the tent entirely below the height of the cab.
• It seems to cool more quickly than the ARB ever did.
• The warranty is great. Where the ARB warranty was three years parts and labor, the Dometic is three years for the fridge and five years on the compressor system.

What seems meh

• It's a little smaller than the ARB fridge, at 48qt rather than 50qt. I hope this won't be an issue.
• The control panel doesn't display the temperature inside the fridge at all times. Rather, I have to press a button to have the screen "wake up" and show me that my food is cold.
• It seems a little louder - or the compressor has a slightly different pitch - when it is on. This may or may not be an issue when it's in the bed of the truck and we're sleeping in the tent above, so I'm reserving judgement until after a few nights on the trail.

What I don't like

• The lid on the Dometic seems flimsy in two ways:
  1. The whole thing sort of "wobbles" on the hinge, which seems loose. While technically secure, it just doesn't give the feeling of proper workmanship as compared to the ARB.
  2. Where the ARB used a locking cam lever to keep the lid securely closed, the Dometic has a small plastic tab that engages when the lid is pushed down from the top. It feels flimsy, and I'm worried that it will break.
     
     
     
     Not loving the small tab on the Dometic (right).​
• The internal storage. While the shape of the Dometic is similar to that of the ARB, the ARB had a permanent divider between the larger main compartment and the upper-rear "vegetable" compartment (a place that stays slightly warmer so you don't freeze fresh veggies). The Dometic uses a wire basket for the upper area, and which reduces space and makes access more difficult.
  
  
  
  Reasonalby similar; advantage ARB (IMO).​

So, without further ado, let's put it through the paces. We're headed to Nevada, in search of rock art I couldn't find earlier this year. The forecast is calling for 90°F temps, and we ought to hit at least a couple bumpy roads. Let's hope that the Dometic is up to the task.

You can read all about it in Curse of the Pahranagat.

 

There was is an article floating around that claims these fridges are almost all made by Dometic.

I got a Dometic for the two sections. So far so good.

 

My cfx3-45 showed up today. I had similar feelings about lid. But I am very excited to give it a shake down this weekend.

 

The wire basket can slide around on the upper lip. When I realized this, I took the larger basket out, and keep only the upper one in there. Saves space while keeping the stuff in the upper area locked in place.

My main gripes with my CFX3-45 is that the door doesn't open in the opposite direction, and that the app doesn't notify me when it loses connection (eg: power loss) or goes above a temperature threshold.

 

I have had the Dometic CFX-35W and Now the CFX3-35 running in my trucks for a while now and they have been great. I agree on the new design having a weird latch pin, however after 2 years of pretty consistent us in mine has held up well. The only issue I have run into it can get filled with Dust and sand it its exposed and it will start to stick and could stick open and not allow the fridge to be held shut worst case. I haven't had it but its most run in the back seat of my Ranger, but will be in the exposed bed of my Tacoma coming up. Other than that its been flawless.
My CFX-35W however did halfway crap out 3 years into use, the 12v side of the system has an issue were is has huge resistance and tanks the voltage to the point the fridge would hit LVC with the truck running at 14.8V, the fridge would be showing 9-10V in the system. The 120V side works perfect still and it has remained in service as a couch side fridge at my house the last 2 years just fine holding 40 degrees. Dometic did warranty the original unit and I am super grateful for that but it does have me wondering if it will happen again on the new unit when I hit the 3 year mark.

 

Got mine set up for our trip this weekend, giving it it a test run on the solar and bluetti ac180 battery setup.

 

Fixing up the Tacoma for Vegas, Baby
May 22, 2023

With the Tacoma living in Las Vegas now, it's harder to perform various maintenance tasks as they pop up and between trips. As such, with a few general maintenance issues - oil changes, tire rotations, etc. - and a few items in recent Rig Reviews needing attention, I drove the truck home from the Three Days of R&R trip for a little TLC (Tacoma Loving Care).

On my list for a warm spring day were the following tasks:

• Routine maintenance - Change the oil, Rotate the tires Grease drive train.
• Check the new SPC UCAs for play in the X-Axis bearings.
• Replace the PCV valve.
• Address the leak between the transmission and transfer case.
• Solder the wiring harness for the Diode Dynamics SS5 Pro spotlights on the front bumper.
• Repair the bottom of the tent floor, which has a couple holes from the ladder.
• Install a LutzAuto speed sensor calibrator to fix my speedometer/odometer once and for all.
• Have a spare key made, since the hidden key holder broke at some point over the years and so I don't have a spare with the Tacoma.
• Install a Honda windshield wiper sprayer on the passenger side, to match the one on the driver side.
• Get a new tablet to use for navigation, since I cracked the glass on my 8" Lenovo Tab 4 on a recent hike.

Quite the list, but everything - save for the seal between the transmission and transfer case - was pretty easy, so I figured I could knock it all out in a couple of days.


Routine Maintenance

Seems like I'll need to do about 2.5 oil changes a year now - down from 5-6 - with the Tacoma living in Las Vegas.​

Changing the oil, rotating the tires (a 4-tire rotation - PR>PF, PF>DR, DR>DF, DF-PR), and greasing the drive train were all done at the same time in a little under an hour. The one thing I noticed this time was that a 5-tire rotation really is quite a lot easier, since you only need to support one corner of the vehicle at a time. Something to keep in mind in the future when I get a new set of tires and want to cheap out by reusing my "best used tire" as a spare.

While I had the front wheels off, I gave the SPC UCAs that I installed a wiggle to see if there was any play in the X-Axis bearings. I noticed what might be a little bit of play in the passenger side, and no play in the driver side. Definitely something to keep an eye on, and I'm glad for the three-year warranty that I have on these things.

I wish I'd never installed these X-Axis SPC UCAs.​

Replace the PCV Valve
I've had a bit of oil seepage where the inlet for the PCV system connects to the main air intake at the throttle body. I didn't even know the function of that hose, but @Dirty Pool was kind enough to explain it for me - and with a diagram no less!

This set my mind at ease a bit, but I still replaced my PCV valve as I've had one sitting around for a couple months and I last replaced mine about 95,000 miles ago.


Address the leak between the transmission and transfer case
I first noticed a leak between the transmission and transfer case in November 2022. Likely, the leak began when I swapped my transfer case nearly a year earlier. I'd purchased the replacement seal (90311-40007) as soon as I noticed the leak, but I really didn't want to drop the transfer case again, so for the last six months I've just been topping off the transmission with MT-90 gear oil, an action that would come back to bite me!

Does every Tacoma have this same leak? A lot do!​

Following the steps in Step-by-Step Replacing the Transfer Case on a Tacoma, I got the j-shift removed, unplugged all the connectors, and removed six (6) of the eight (8) bolts that secure the transfer case to the transmission. Supporting the transfer case on a jack, I removed the final two bolts. As I split the cases, about half-a-quart (or maybe three-quarters) of oil gushes out of the "supposed to be dry" cavity. #winning.

At least I can vouch for the fact that there are true surfaces and a good seal between the transmission and transfer case.​

With the transfer case removed, I had access to the seal on the transmission side.​

At that point, I was able to remove the old seal using my slide hammer and replace it with my nailing hammer - before carefully buttoning everything back up, ensuring that I carefully inserted the transfer case input shaft into the new seal in order to keep it pristine.

Removal was straight forward with the right tool.​

After cleaning up the race and applying a bit of grease to the new seal, I was ready to reassemble.​

​

I've found that a block of wood and hammer are a great way to install new seals. I'd say better than a seal driver set, though the OTC seal driver set is a good one.​

Here's to hoping that the fix holds for many years to come!


Solder the wiring harness for the Diode Dynamics SS5s
When I installed the Diode Dynamics SS5s on the front bumper, I had no idea how much I'd love them. I use them every chance I get for tons of light but noticed the one on the driver side started to flicker on my trip to Joshua Tree.

When I'd installed the lights, I'd made my own 12ga wiring harness to ensure that they were able to perform to their full potential, and I'd crimped the connectors that connected the harness to the pigtails that came from Diode Dynamics. It turns out that over time, that crimp worked its way loose, so this time I soldered the wires into the connectors and buttoned everything back up.

Crimping may be preferred by some, but I'll stick with solder from here on out.​

Repair the bottom of the tent floor
Having noticed a couple holes in the bottom of my CVT tent floor, I set about patching them with some aluminum I had laying around. Simple process - cut out the aluminum to cover the holes, apply some industrial double-sided tape, place in position.

To be expected after more than 1,000 nights of use.​

A couple of small plates and really strong tape.​

Don't think I'll be wearing through 3/16" aluminum plates.​

LutzAuto speed sensor calibrator installation
I've always wanted to have my speedometer calibrated correctly, but with 4.88 gears, 33" tires and the largest (33-tooth) speedo gear available, my speedometer has always read about 6% faster than I'm actually travelling.

I received a LutzAuto 3-wire speed sensor calibrator for my birthday, but like the transfer case seal, it's been sitting around gathering dust while the Tacoma has been in Las Vegas. I figured that while I was messing around with the transfer case seal, I might as well get the calibrator installed as well.

Install was straight forward - essentially, disconnect the plug on the side of the transfer case where the speedo gear is installed, and then insert the LutzAuto device inline between the speedo gear and ECU.

Step 1: disconnect the wiring harness from the transfer case using a pick tool to release the connector. This can be tricky.​

Step 2: insert the LutzAuto device inline; it only fits one way.​

Step 3: after calibration, zip tie everything up and out of the way.​

Calibration for me was reasonably straight forward, as I already knew how far "off" my speedometer was from reality. After turning the ignition to the "ON" position, I first reset the device by press-and-holding the "down" and "up" buttons for 15 seconds, before pressing the "down" button 12 times, each press changing the reading at the speedometer by 0.5%.


Get a replacement spare key
This was a pretty straightforward operation - I headed to my local Home Depot and had a duplicate key ground from my primary key. It's not pretty, but for $3.50, it'll work just fine. Then - after a little trial and error - I was able to find the same, very thin, magnetic key holder that I've used for the last 20 years, and picked up a new one.

Should be good to go for another 20 years!​

Install a better windshield washer on the passenger side
When I Modernized the Windshield Sprayer Nozzles, I only installed a Honda Odyssey 76810-TK8-A01 Windshield Washer Sprayer on the driver side, just in case I didn't like it. Well, I do like it, and it's finally time to match the passenger side. A 3-minute operation; the best kind.

Toyota jet-stream on the left; Honda fan spray on the right.​

Buy a new tablet for GPS navigation
I'm not sure what happened exactly, but on a recent hike, my pant leg must have brushed up on a canyon wall or tree limb in just the right way to crack the screen on my 8" Lenovo Tab 4. I've really liked that tablet, so I searched for replacement on Amazon, where I discovered that last year's model - the 8" Lenovo Tab M8 FHD not only contains 4-years newer technology (better processor, more RAM) but also has a significantly better screen (1920x1200). Beware though, there is an "HD" version of the M8 that is not the "FHD" version, and the screen on that device (1280x800) isn't as nice.

With all that out of the way, it's time to go to Vegas, baby!​

 

I've been doing five tire rotations the past six years. it is easier. I see it as good to have 'equal' wear on all five. 3-4k mile intervals.
recent did TC uni-ball replacement, but most helpful for the excessive front end squeaks was switching out the spherical bearings on the coil-overs where they mount to the LCA. used a ball pean hammer and a 5/8ths socket to 'press out' and 'press in' the bearing.

 

I had never seen that speedo correction unit, Thats awesome! I will have to get one on order! After my 33s and 4.88s I'm close to 13% off. Instead of messing with the speedo gears to get close.

 

I did the nozzle upgrade a couple of years ago. The funny thing was the dealer I got the nozzles from says "you are aware these do not fit your Type R?" One of the best things you can do for less than $20.

 

I am a little surprised you had that much error with the 33 tooth correction. 6% is more than double the correction amount for mine.

 

Oh yeah, I have plenty of front end squeaks. And rear end. And all the joints on the truck too.

I've also got plenty of experience with the spherical bearings. Ever since going to stainless steel -F1 tightness, things have been a lot better though. Highly recommend them if you are still running the hardened steel or generic COM10T's.

Yikes! I think that's about where I was after I got the 33's and 4.88s but before I installed the 33-tooth speedo gear. I have to say, it's really weird to finally have the speedo be right now at 250K miles. I'm so used to it saying "68mph" and knowing that I'm really only going 63mph that I keep feeling like I should be speeding up, hahahaha!

yeah, I did the driver side a couple years ago as well. Didn't do the passenger side at the time because... lazy. But, every time I use the sprayers, I feel bad for @mrs.turbodb, since her side never gets as clean. Finally, it will now.

Different gear ratios I suppose between the manual and auto? If I was only off by 3% I might not have done anything at all.

One weird side effect of having the speedo/odo be correct: I'm used to getting ~300-330 miles per tank. My spreadsheet then adjusts that down to figure out actual MPGs and whatnot, but what I always see between fill-ups, and count on for "how much longer until I need fuel" are those numbers. Now, with the speedo/odo correct, those numbers drop by ~6%, or about 18 miles. Was pretty weird the first couple of tanks when I was running out of gas at 280 miles.

Of course, I was always running out of gas at 280 miles, but the math was hidden from me, hahaha!

 

The final drive ratios for the 2 transmissions is definitely not the same. But it doesn't seem like that could be the answer.

FWIW, 68 indicated is 66 gps for me.

 

Stalker radar speed signs are pretty accurate. My 4Runner is on the money. The Taco is maybe 2 or 3 mph off--it's also regeare where as the runner is not regeared.

 

Dan, do you recall from your shock rebuild the type of wiper seal our shocks use. Zane told me about a place that offers seal kits for ADS shocks (as well as other brands) but a line in their description stopped me in my tracks.

Shock must have press in wiper, not snap in.

https://www.shockseals.com/collections/ads-seal-kits/products/ads-2-5-seal-kit-w-875-shaft

 

This has been my experience too. Pretty consistent with 2 apps I use that use GPS.

 

Interesting. Compared to GPS, the speedo is around 9-10% low and the odo is around 12.5% low on my truck (4.56, 35s, and A750F transmission). Are the speedo and odo reading high a first-gen thing?

 

Well, the best answer I can give is "I don't know." But I can add some details about my shocks, which will hopefully help you out when to call shockseals or ADS . And of course, I suppose that in the few years between when I purchased my shocks and you picked up yours, things may have changed, so...

Oh, two other things:

1. I got my seal kits from Tim @TMFF and he was great (as always). I'd reach out to him if I were you and he'll get you the right kits for your shocks, I'm sure.
2. My seal kit part number (with ADS branding as you can see) was 250-COR00-SKU, and I used four of these kits (one kit did a single shock and resi). The part number does not match the part number in the link you sent me.:

OK, onto the wiper seal photos...

This is the internal shaft retainer which contains the wiper (those three smaller seals; I think the black one is the actual wiper) on my shocks:



You can see how they all fit into races inside the retainer. I'd say they "snap" into those races, but maybe that's what shock seals is calling "pushing in." Here, you can see the new seals in place:



Kings definitely use a "press in" wiper seal. Here's the photo that shows how their cap/seal works; the seal presses in from the outside. You can see a series of photos for this here.

 

Glad to see I am not the only one who depends on a good old block of wood to press in seals and races. As long as you go slow and keep it going in even, it does a great job without marrying anything.

 

Thanks. I'll reach out to Tim next.

Next question is about shock oil. I see in your photos some red 5wt (I presume) oil from shockseals. Did you really use 2 gallons, half a gallon per shock? I've received conflicting feedback on this question.

This looks like it might be what you used but ADS is not on their list. https://www.shockseals.com/collections/high-performance-5wt-shock-oil/products/1-gallon-fox-red-oil

Finally (maybe ) do you know of an ADS specific 'parts' storefront. It seems like I recall a section of their main website dedicated to replacement parts, but I couldn't find it when I looked.