Advice on dealing with The Dealer

Aloha gents (and lady) I humbly ask your opinions regarding the predicament I now find myself in with my new-to-me- but- not-NEW-new-but-new-enough-with-factory-warranty '20 3.5L 4x4 auto w/ just north of 20k mi. My problem? The truck has what I can only describe with my caveman level knowledge of electrical engineering as a "ground" or "short." This "thing" that it just started doing, ran perfectly every since I bought it a month ago or so, which causes her to turn over normally, run great for a time and then it starts stumbling, choking, very nearly dying then "resetting" (Tacoma thingy in the dash display resets, all warning lights cycle on/off as when you first put the key in and start) springing right back to running perfect... for 2-30 sec, then the shit Rollercoaster starts all over again. Solve for X until it eventually dies however many min later. No codes. Not that I can pull, anyways. So, to the dealer, right? Well, here's my question. 2nd owner, me, bought the truck with the 4" lift, tires, and rock lights already installed on the truck. All of which appear to be done proffessionally as there is an additional fuse panel mounted very tiddy like in the engine bay for the rock/ditch lights and all wire loomsare crimped and heat shrinked appropriately. Even look like they have stock switches in the overhead, no wires ran across the dash or anything like that.
Thinking that they could be the culprit (the rock lights, I mean) I disconnected them and fired her up, but alas, no change. She's still doing her muck about thing. Should I remove the aftermarket lights completely b4 sending it to Toyota, being as an electrical issue almost certainly is the culprit and can (or would) Toyota blame the light additions for the issue? Its going to Toyota no matter what, but hopefully some insight on if she goes with or without the lights would be greatly appreciated

 

If you bought the truck with those lights, leave it

 

Try remove the wire from the addtl fuse panel going to the + of battery. Should tell you if that is the culprit.

 

IF your sole reliance for service will be the dealer then yes. I would eliminate, if you can, any wrong doing from the past owners
Doing so will save you the cost per hour that at the dealer someone might have to sift through the mess.
GL

 

Tried removing the lights from the system i.e. disconnected the add. lights relay from the battery terminals, but she kept acting up the same way

 

wfo479 My only resource as she should still be under the 3 yr 36k mi warranty from Toyota (not a salvage/ rebuilt title, no engine modifications) so I don't want to upset the Toyota Gods by taking it to anywhere else. That's my thinking anyways

 

I think you may be SOL with the electrical mods. I wouldn't remove anything as it would be futile - and the dealer would see evidence of it anyway. Bite the bullet and take her in and pay for the repair. Have you reached out to the prior owner?

 

This might not be an electrical problem. If the car starts normally and runs, then stumbles and dies several minutes later, it sounds like a potential fuel/spark/ignition problem. A lift or lights shouldn't affect that at all. With any car, I'm assuming Tacomas as well, you can completely disconnect the battery after starting it and it will continue to run without stumbling or dying as long as your alternator is functioning. The turning of the alternator provides enough spark to the plugs, and everything else is fuel and air flow.

Of course in modern cars electrical or electronics can come into play via the ECU which controls the flow of fuel and timing of spark. Affecting these parameters can cause your car to stumble and die. Before getting into all that fanciness, with the symptoms you describe I'd be looking at fuel. How long has this been going on? If since the last fill-up, I'd get some new gas in there and see if the problem persists.

 

Leave the lights on it.
Why? Because it will help the Tech if he/she has a problem in the circuit where the lights are installed.
Other wise, they might spend more time chasing the wiring.

There’s no need in hiding it, if the dealership blames the lights, and it actually “wasn’t” the lights.
They were going to blame you anyways.

But, contrary to popular belief, most dealerships aren’t out scam you.
They are just expensive.

 

We’re 2020’s on the list for fuel pump recalls ?

 

I haven't checked the SBs yet. Is there a known fuel pump issue on previous yrs?

 

Wouldn’t a fuel pump through a code?

I’m thinking it could be the alternator. But usually the battery will keep things going for a bit. I’d check voltage on the battery with the engine running. Quick and easy and worth doing to rule out trouble in that department.

 

I just bought a brand new optima battery, and now that Im thinking about it, it ran perfectly for the first hr or so, and then the issue began to occur more frequently... and I'm guessing with the amount of electronics on this truck, any fluctuations in current amperage would send it into a hissy fit i.e. exactly what she's doing... God damnit, is it normal for alternators to burnout after 20k mi?

 

20k is on the short side for failure but not imposable
any signs of rodent under the hood?

 

Did this have the problem before new Optima battery?

 

Just a thought- regardless of what you do before bringing it to the dealer, it might be helpful if you have a friend take a video of what's happening... more than once if possible, just so the tech can see it before trying to duplicate it. Maybe if you posted the video here someone smarter than me could help you out!

 

2020s were not included in the fuel pump recall.

 

I personally ran an Optima D35 as my primary battery for a couple of years, since switched it to the aux location. Some have reported quality issues with them. But regardless of brand, a bad battery can happen. Also battery terminals can have poor conductivity. That type of stuff is at least easy to rule out and I’d imagine there is a warranty on the battery itself.

The alternator can fail but 20k is very early. I had one go on me on the NJTP when I was in college. It was stressful and scary.

Both of those problems, albeit somewhat costly, are better than something within the main harness. So they are the things to rule out first, before diving into the really hard stuff.

@caribe makaira may have more sage advice as well. I would just start with the basics. But maybe someone who has experienced fuel pump trouble can chime in on those symptoms.

 

this, some ooooh and ahhh over aftermarket parts on used vehicle, I run!

sorry OP, I know that's not much help, but it sounds like you have aftermarket doodads previous owner wired up, correct? what mods?
You might try disconnection much of it and start using the process of elimination.

 

Having bought a heavily-modded truck, and now trading it in for a brand-new Tacoma, I'm glad to be finally rid of the previous owner's mods that I never would have chosen myself. However, my experience with the used truck was a good one. The mods never caused any serious problems, and I enjoyed them. It just never really felt like MINE.