Advice on driveshaft (vibration after lift)

I installed Bilstein 6112/5160 and Dakar HD leaf packs about a year ago. I did install a CB drop, but have had take off vibes from day one. Nothing crazy, but still noticeable. Recently I've developed a vibration at 45-55mph, which I assume is probably from CB wear.
I called a local driveshaft shop, it's a well known shop for off road vehicle drivelines, they told me to fix Tacoma vibes the basically extend the stock driveshaft and that takes care of the issue. They told me going to a single piece is something they did like 5 years ago, but don't do anymore.
Conversely I can buy a single piece from Tom Woods and the consensus on TW is most of the time the vibes go away.
I don't plan on ever having to re gear, I don't do much wheeling (only enough to get me around when I'm hunting out west), I do tow a boat that's about 3500lbs total weight.
If anyone has some advice on which option would be the best let me know.

 

The vibrations that you get at 40 - 50 mph should go away if you switch to 4hi. If it does then it is the front diff drivers side needle bearing. East coast gear supply has a replacement bushing that fixes the vibration.

I just did 5100s with 877 springs in the front with extended 5100s and Dakar HD springs in the rear.... About 3.5" total lift and got the vibes after about a day.

 

Forgot to mention, ECGS bushing was installed when the lift was installed.

 

Does the 40 - 50 vibe go away when in 4hi? Maybe the bushing has worn out and needs replacement? I still need to order the bushing fix.

 

I’ll have to check that out. I’ve only put about 7000 miles on the bushing. I suppose it could be failing, but that doesn’t seem likely.

 

I can confirming shifting into 4 hi does not stop the vibrations.

 

I would probably try axle shims in conjunction with your existing csb drop. You may be able to get away with no csb drop and just the axle shims but I would start at the cheapest solution first before spending money on a driveshaft.

 

Yeah that’s what I would consider, but if I can just spend the money and not chase the problem i would prefer that. I’d imagine at this point my CB is shot so that would have to be replaced anyway.

 

Well if that were the case, you wouldn't be on TW and the truck would be in the shop for diagnosis! The truth is, every setup is different and it basically boils down to your drive line angles due to the lift. An extended driveshaft will only do just that, extend the driveshaft. With the shims, you modify the angle of the driveshaft to differential to a lesser degree and reduce vibrations.

Alot of the advice given here on TW has saved many people hundreds of dollars. Spend $20 on the shims, install them and see if that cures your issue. You may have just saved a bunch of money for other mods vs spending money on the drivetrain when all that was needed was a minor driveshaft angle adjustment.

 

It's simple geometry. All you have to do is buy an angle finder and measure to know what to correct. The angle of the diff must match the slope of the first drive shaft. You also want to make sure that the CB is centered laterally.

 

Any update OP? I’m in the same place, but with access cab 2015

really tempted to try the Tw single piece....

 

Going to a single piece driveshaft is a pretty drastic change from stock engineered configuration. I would much prefer to dick around with the angles first and only do the shaft as an absolutely last resort. When i did the Dakar HDs I installed the shims and CB drop. I have very slight takeoff vibes (my stick shakes for like 3 or 4 bumps back and forth and it's gone) and it's totally livable. No other vibes.

 

Do as you want and read the forum. Everyone has an opinion.
I got sick of all the BS from Toyota so went with a Tom Woods 1 piece regular u-joints and have 5100s and Dakars and all is fine.
Stocks tires 265-70R15 and front 5100s set at 2" and alignment works perfectly stock front arms.
Pull a boat a lot and Dakars handle that well with no squat and no spring wrap changing the driveshaft angle.
No vibrations and steers straight with no front tire wear.
Have full 3/8" skid plates underneath to. Good luck.

 

Did you have to cut the CB bracket?

 

I’d love to second this opinion, but I’ve got 2.5” spacer lift and 1” rear block with 1.75” torch aal, and I’ve tried shims, cb drop, etc with no help. I’m switching to The Billie 5100 all around and keeping just the add a leaf in the rear, fronts set to full 2.5” on stock coil overs.

I really feel like I’ve wasted enough money and I’m hoping a single piece is the saving grace....

 

Cut!? It literally just unbolts doesn’t it?

 

Yes simply unbolt and drop that CB and 2 piece shaft in the trash - no actually keep it in case Toyota pays for a real factory fix - oh that would be probably be another partial fix and worse than the TW shaft fix - after years of BS I do not ever expect them to really resolve their problem. If you have a DBLB a 1 piece shaft exceeds the max length for 1 piece. DCSB are OK like mine. Note that if you buy a 1 piece TW shaft but do not beef up the rear springs nothing is cured as stock springs are too soft. When towing or loading heavy with weak stock springs a 1 piece may hit the tunnel. So new TW shaft, new Dakar or other rear springs, and then a 2' lift in front to level it (5100s do it). Not cheap to do it all correctly. Cheap out and you keep chasing that factory fix - as your blood pressure climbs and cursing increases!