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Advice on Shop Findings

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by MacGyvR, Sep 26, 2018.

  1. Nov 1, 2018 at 11:16 AM
    #61
    frenchee

    frenchee Favorite Member

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    I just did my LCA bushings this weekend.
    I wouldn't say its an easy job if its your daily driver since you're new to wrenching.

    If you can spend the weekend on the LCA's then I think its a safe bet.

    To press them out, use a bottle jack and buy a torch. They will come out.
    I used a bottle jack and no torch. I think I was a little too rough with them and the added torch would have been a more gentle removal.

    Personally what I would do is get advice from people here about doing multiple things at once. When you do the LCA bushings, you need to remove all the rack bolts. (Do the bushings at this time).
    You can do tie rods at this time as well. Then you can do lower ball joints. Then do LCA etc.

    DIY Tuts https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9EMiD9KPy61kJ6hdXcbjxA
     
  2. Nov 1, 2018 at 11:18 AM
    #62
    frenchee

    frenchee Favorite Member

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    I've been chasing down a hard pull to the left.
    Everyone laughing at my idea its been the LCA bushings.
    I had replaced every suspension component including a big brake upgrade to rule out sticking caliper.
    Finally did the LCA bushings this weekend and the truck now goes straight under hard braking.
    Used to damn steer me into the divider.

    -Interesting enough, the bushings didn't appear bad. I pried with a big screwdriver and wasn't feeling any slop.
     
    MacGyvR[OP] and Willbeck like this.
  3. Nov 1, 2018 at 11:24 AM
    #63
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OME 2.5", 881, Dakar, Nitrochargers
    What is a long block? Right now I have the 3.4L V6 engine.

    The shop said they could look for a used or re-manufactured engine, but that it would likely end up being around $2,000 for a new 5vzfe engine, around $2,400 in labor to get it installed, and then plan on $500ish for misc parts and fees.

    Shop said that if I'm inclined, I could try replacing the gasket on my own. I might be able to get 30 or 40k more miles out of the engine. I found some youtube videos on how to do it and boy does it look involved.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voLBRDZL9fE


    I'm really torn on what to do. These dollar values are climbing fast. On the one hand, even with these high dollar repairs, it's likely cheaper to repair the truck than get a new car. On the other hand, these repairs would make a nice down payment on a newer used car. Or maybe look at getting a new daily driver and keep this as a project car like others are suggesting? But then I'd need to find somewhere to keep the truck that isn't expensive...

    Adulting sucks.
    :crapstorm:
     
  4. Nov 1, 2018 at 11:48 AM
    #64
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    A long block is basically just how much of the engine you'd be getting. It's usually the block (crank/pistons etc), cylinder heads, valve train, etc... but not the fuel system, intake or exhaust.

    I just find it weird that the shop is telling you to get a new motor when they seem to be saying that it's just a head gasket. I mean, there IS a possibility that there are other issues associated with the head gasket, but replacing the motor is not where I'd jump to first like that shop seems to be doing...
     
  5. Nov 1, 2018 at 12:02 PM
    #65
    ToxicTwin

    ToxicTwin Money Talks...It Says Goodbye

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    I think the shop is telling the OP that because of the other issues he's facing with freeze plugs, labor etc.
    Probably cheaper to replace in the long run
     
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  6. Nov 1, 2018 at 1:33 PM
    #66
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
    Yes, adulting does suck, but you get better at it over time and can go back to not adulting more.

    Here's an example of a long block so you can kind of see what you get that is new and what would get swapped over from your current vehicle (and what they are charging for it):

    https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-3-4l-5vz-95-04-engine-dressed-long-block-5vz-dlb-9504/

    Good thing is that it would include all new freeze plugs, head gasket, timing belt, water pump -- and it's good for a lot more miles.

    One thing that the shop might do is combine some of the labor if you have them do multiple items -- like the head gasket + timing belt + water pump.
     
    MacGyvR[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  7. Nov 1, 2018 at 1:53 PM
    #67
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Could be. Unless I'm missing something else buried in the thread, post #1 only shows some oil leaks, and a timing belt. I haven't read the entire thread to know if there are other issues with the motor, though...

    Since this shop already wanted to charge the OP for all new control arms (instead of just bushings), it's not a stretch that the shop is also banking on an engine swap being cheaper (labor wise) and easier for them to do, and since the customer is paying for all the parts, it's no skin off their back that it will actually cost the customer MORE.
     
    ToxicTwin[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Nov 1, 2018 at 2:46 PM
    #68
    ToxicTwin

    ToxicTwin Money Talks...It Says Goodbye

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    I guess I missed the control arm issue, yeah you're probably correct then.
     
  9. Nov 1, 2018 at 2:47 PM
    #69
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
    Yeah, I think you missed the part where he went to a different shop. The new shop is talking about a new motor and seems to be a bit more thorough and familiar with the vehicle. They did advise to just use his original control arms and replace the bushings.

    On the motor, there's a point where if you have that much to do and have 2 cylinders in question anway, paying a little bit more to have a completely refreshed motor is just a wiser option. That said, if OP could do the timing belt, water pump and new head gasket himself and live with the coolant leak from the freeze plug for a while, that would keep things going for a lot cheaper.

    From the time I was 16 to 25, I drove mostly sub-$1000 vehicles and just kept buying another one when it got to the point of major work that I couldn't do myself. With inflation, that probably equates to a $3000 vehicle today. May want to consider another while you get the Taco in shape and take your time learning and doing it yourself.
     
    jbrandt[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Nov 7, 2018 at 12:46 PM
    #70
    KkelX4

    KkelX4 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I had like 7 thou difference between the stock bushings and aftermarket. And 3 thou where the bolt goes. Plus dofter rubber on the aftermarkets sure made a difference.
     
    frenchee[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Nov 7, 2018 at 2:24 PM
    #71
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OME 2.5", 881, Dakar, Nitrochargers
    Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I'm going to try fixing all of this on my own. Here are the parts I think I need so far:

    Part - Part Number - Price - Quantity
    UCA Bushings - 48632-35070 - $27.65 x 2

    LCA Bushings - 48061-35040 - $50.33 x 4

    (From wheelers)

    Ball Joint (Upper left) - 43360-39095 - $55.78 x 1

    Ball Joint (Upper Right) - 43350-39105 - $55.78 x 1

    Ball joint (Lower left) - 43340-39436 - $89.99 x 1

    Ball Joint (Lower Right) - 43330-39556 - $112.23 x 1

    Head Gasket (Left) - 11116-62081 - $38.04 x 1

    Head Gasket (Right) - 11115-62081 - $38.04 x 1

    Valve Cover Gaskets - 11213-62020 - $38.04 x 1 (I think this contains two)

    Timing belt and water pump kit - N/A - - $172.98 x 1 (Amazon)

    Intermediate Steering Shaft - 45260-35100 - $249.72 x 1

    Intermediate Steering Shaft - 45860-34020 - $81.18 x 1

    I found most of the above over at oempartworld.com. Not sure if anyone has ordered through them or not. At the very least it was an awesome resource to find the OEM part numbers I needed!

    Questions so far:
    • Do these part numbers look right for my prerunner?
    • How do I know if I need both of those intermediate steering shaft pieces? Seems like a good opportunity to do .
    • Would I be better off going after market on any of the above? Seems like the OEM stuff is good to at least 250,000 miles.

    Also confused on the number of bushings included in those first two links. Looks like the first one is a pack of two, so I would need one pack for each side. The LCA bushings seem to be sold individually, so I believe I would need four of them.





    It's like $1,200 in parts for what's listed above plus another $1,200 for that OME kit. Probably going to need some tools along the way as well. The price tag is scary, but I have to believe tightening the front end and replacing the suspension will make it drive like new. Plus it beats the hell out of getting a new used car I won't be happy with.
    :spending:
    :mudding:
     
  12. Nov 7, 2018 at 2:57 PM
    #72
    frenchee

    frenchee Favorite Member

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    Yup, the used car you buy will need all this at one point.
    A lot of people neglect their vehicles.
    You see everyone suggesting maintenance here because you're joining an enthusiastic forum where the majority take pride in their truck.
    The work you are doing is going to renew your tacoma.
    I did almost everything you've listed and it drives fricking amazing. It's a dream to drive.

    One thing for the future, a big brake upgrade. That's been one of my favorite refresher/upgrades on the truck.
     
    MacGyvR[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  13. Nov 8, 2018 at 5:01 AM
    #73
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
    I'd validate whether the UCA bushings come as a pair (you have x2, might need x4), and check those LCA bushings -- front and rear appear to possibly be different.
     
  14. Nov 8, 2018 at 10:45 AM
    #74
    frenchee

    frenchee Favorite Member

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    On that note,
    I'm a hardcore OEM guy but I'd recommend the whiteline bushings. Installed mine and they are great.
    The reason I recommend is because they come in one pack for 2 lca's. Also, the design is much easier for the home DIY.
    The sleeve is smaller and then necks UP. That makes it so you can slide the bushing and sleeve in about 60% then press the rest. When you press a OEM bushing with a press fit along the whole sleeve, it makes the pressing job a lot more difficult.
    Food for thought.
    https://www.amazon.com/Whiteline-W53377A-Control-Arm-Bushing/dp/B00N9GQMT0
     
  15. Nov 8, 2018 at 10:55 AM
    #75
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

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    How many miles have you had them? I've heard they prone to squeaking. Not totally opposed, but others have noted to stay away from aftermarket stuff when possible. Ease of install sounds pretty nice though.
     
  16. Nov 8, 2018 at 11:01 AM
    #76
    frenchee

    frenchee Favorite Member

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    haha, good question. Like... 100 miles lol. I don't DD the truck anymore. Did it couple weekends ago. I just used the lube and bam.
    Don't want to sway you but I'd take the "risk" just cus ease of install and price as well.
    I think I mentioned it but make sure you buy a little portable torch to help with the pressing process when you remove the old ones.
     
  17. Nov 13, 2018 at 3:18 PM
    #77
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I started acquiring tools to get the truck back in shape. I found this gem on CL today:
    https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/ptd/d/jdm-toyota-5vz-engine/6731615590.html

    Imported JDM motor with 60,000 miles on it. They sold it, but they're expecting another shipment in soon. I might jump on that since the price is lower than I've seen elsewhere, and it's nice that I could drive over and pick one up. They run compression tests among others to the motors they get in and offer a 60 day warranty (not stellar).

    I've heard people have to modify the engine to pass emissions in the US. Is that a thing, or do you just drop it in and go?
     
  18. Nov 14, 2018 at 4:32 AM
    #78
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
    I don't know for sure, but I helped do a JDM crate motor years ago on a Nissan. There were some minor differences, but we didn't have to worry about smog testing at the time. There may be some things you have to change, or move over from your current motor. They are usually cheap and sold as-is.
     
  19. Feb 14, 2019 at 8:56 AM
    #79
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay, I'm gearing up to buy the final pieces so I can do this in the next week or two.
    So far I've acquired a new suspension package from OME, a new steering rack bushing kit and a bunch of new tools. This week I'm buying some whiteline bushings for the LCAs, likely OEM bushings for the UCAs, upper and lower ball joints, and an intermediate steering shaft. Somebody mentioned I should do my tie rods since I'm replacing everything else. Should I do the inners and outers? For the tie rods I've identified these parts:
    45046-39295 - Right outer tie rod
    45047-39175 - Left outer tie rod
    45503-39075 - Left inner tie rod
    45503-39075 - Right inner tie rod


    Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? Do I need to replace boots or anything for the tie rods? I haven't looked into what's involved with replacing them yet. I'm not eager to spend more money, but I don't want to have to go back in there for a while, you know?

    Can't wait to get all of this done. I've been itching to get off road and camping for months now.
    :mudding:

    EDIT:
    I watched a few videos on the tie rod replacements. Doesn't look too bad, and my boots are in good shape so I'll reuse them.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2019
  20. Mar 1, 2019 at 11:58 AM
    #80
    MacGyvR

    MacGyvR [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It's go time! Hopefully I can make it through this stuff by Monday or Tuesday. foto_no_exif.jpg
     
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