Advise on fluid film diy

I would like to get set up to undercoat my own vehicles. Living in Vt I’ve seen too much rust over the years. I know it will be costly this year but should save me money in the long run. For those of you that do your own fluid film undercoating, can you recommend ramps for lifting one side of the vehicle at a time and a compressor for me to purchase? Any other tips would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Steven

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-fluid-film-your-3rd-gen.455241/

I'm following this thread this next weekend. I think it has all your questions.

I bought the following.

$120 woolwax Pro Undercoating Gun by Kellsport

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070WTGZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$44 Fluid Film 1 Gallon Can Rust Inhibitor Rust Prevention Anti Corrosion Anti Rust Coating Undercoating Underbody Rust Proofing Corrosion Protection for Truck Snow Blower Mower Car Semi Tractor Bus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NDDCKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best of luck!

 

I just drive up on rhino ramps.

 

I used a couple pair of ramps when I undercoated mine a couple weeks ago.
It was quick and easy and allowed enough room to work.

 

I would say that you're not going to be able to do a very thorough job without being able to remove the wheels.

 

@Black DOG Lila

 

That includes the spare to. Make sure you get it inside some of the frame sections that are boxed in. Imo, i'd use a cosmoline type product unless you enjoy repeating the process every year. It sucks bad enough if you do it yourself. I'd rather do it once and hope for a few touchups the following years.

 

You can do it with one of those little pancake, or hot dog style, compressors. It will kick the compressor on about 5 seconds after you pull the trigger, but it will work. You will probably also have to stop every 30 seconds , or so, to let the compressor catch up, because you are going to be using more volume of air than the compressor can generate. In my book, the little cheep spray wand that attaches to the can of FF would be just as good. If you do end up purchasing one of those little compressors, get a good one that is quiet. The rattle that those cheep ones make will drive you crazy.

I use a 30 gallon, 3 hoarse compressor, but paid something like $300 or $400 for it back 40 years ago. It is just about the minimum that will "run" that type of spray gun continuously.

 

For what its worth I have a local shop do krown and he uses roughly 2 and a half gallons on my truck. He does a phenomenal job. It takes him roughly 3 hours to do it. Total cost was 139 dollars. He puts it on a lift and gets every nook and cranny.

 

Is he homeless? That’s not charging enough

 

I drop the spare, but don't otherwise raise the truck. Yeah, it's a bit of a b*tch scooting around under the truck, but I haven't had any problem spraying any part of the truck.

 

Those are fixed rates per krown he is an awesome guy. This is my third winter in the salt belt with the truck and the frame is still mint.

 

Plus when I rotated the tires is when I did a touch up around the suspension. Like he says, you have to drop the spare and it can be done without raising the truck onto stands, just harder to move around.

 

If you have rust I would remediate that first ( Ospho). Primer, paint then FF with an air compressor. Applying FF by itself might work below the Mason Dixon Line but in VT you won't accomplish anything permanently. The rust must be removed or neutralize ( Ospho) then the above application. I 've been doing this to mine since 2012 . I'm OCD when it comes to rust on my frame. There is none.

You will also need : 2P patience and preparation. 6P Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
GL Winter is coming.

 

I was assuming his 2020 is still rust free. But yes, older frames should address the rust before protecting

 

I just did this last weekend. I used set of steel car ramps I've had for decades . Backed the truck up on them, lowered the spare and got as much of the frame and body under the cab as possible with the spray cans, the straw and extension hose. Then put the spare back, drove off the ramps, moved them to the front, repeated the same after removing the steel bottom cover. I stayed away from the brakes, oil and transmission pans, oil cooler, CV boots but did the drive shafts and axels as best I could.
It would be way easier if I had access to a lift but I don't. I only have a gravel driveway, ramps and some big cardboard sheets to work on. I did the best I could, it has to be better than not.

 

I would recommend Wool Wax rather than Fluid Film. It’s a thicker version made by the same company and it lasts longer as it’s more difficult to wash off.

EDIT: They are not made by the same company. FF is made by Eureka Chemical in CA. WW is made by Kellsport in MA.
Regardless, having used both, I’d recommend WoolWax.

 

I've been Fluid Filming my Tacomas since 2012 and have never used a lift / ramps to do any part of it. I did the first year by hand using a paint brush and spray cans. The second year I was in my house and had a 2.5 HP 10-gallon compressor from HF that hasn't let me down yet using the Kellsport FF kit. I spray anywhere between 0.75 to 1 gallon a year, but I've got so much on there now I don't think I need the "heavy duty" coat on as many of the areas. That reminds me, I'll have to check my supplies tomorrow. Maybe I'll take the plunge and switch to Woolwax when my FF runs out.

The only areas I have any corrision are the high spray areas like the leading edge of the transmission crossmember, the leading edge. I did see a small amount of surface corrosion under my TRD skid plate when I had it off this past summer, but they were all bolt on parts, so I wasn't nearly as worried.

I recommend getting the spray cans to get your rockers, cab corners and door/tailgate bottoms.

 

Wow, thanks for all the responses. I’ve ordered the wool wax kit that comes with the gun, wands and a 5 gallon bucket. This should work for our 4 vehicles. A friend loaned me his small 6 gallon bostitch compressor and I’ll give that a try and upgrade and purchase a bigger one if that doesn’t work. I’m going to look for some jack stands to help lift the truck a bit, this will also give me the ability to remove the tires. Thanks again and I’ll let you know how it goes
Steven

 

I just did mine today, first time using fluid film and recently bought my tacoma.

I didn’t use ramps and was able to slide under the truck with a creeper, but it was a tight fit. Would probably be easier with ramps but it’s possible without.

Definitely get a tyvek coverall suit and nitrile gloves! It’s super messy and this will help keep the mess off your cloths. I wore a full face respirator because I already had one, it was helpful because I accidentally sprayed towards myself a few times.

I did the spray cans this time and used 13 cans total, I’ll probably get a spray gun kit next year since I already have a compressor.

Just take your time and make sure to get all the nooks and crannies and definitely take off the spare tire to get access to all the metal in that area.