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Aesthetic, functional fasteners for mounting powdercoated closet rods?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by bassmusic, Oct 13, 2023.

  1. Oct 13, 2023 at 7:18 AM
    #1
    bassmusic

    bassmusic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good mornin’

    I looked for a Home Improvement DIY thread didn’t really see one - so here goes with my question -

    I just got these closet rods I picked up on Etsy powdercoated - now the fun part of mounting them and fastening them to the studs.

    My question is what sorta fastener can I utilize that is both functional and aesethic. I went thru all the hassle and cost involved on this project - I surely can just use some ugly screws. I was thinking something buttonhead style….

    Thank you in advance….C99A91AD-5D88-4CB3-8430-38E104055CDD.jpg A542767A-0FE4-4014-9677-5E8E49856D5A.jpg
     
  2. Oct 13, 2023 at 9:01 AM
    #2
    Andy01DblCabTacoma

    Andy01DblCabTacoma Well-Known Member

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    I'd just spray paint the heads of the screws afterwards with something close :notsure: Just make a mask piece of card board or card stock, and send it. If not color matched, White would match the outlet plate you have there. You'd be able to get white cabinet screws.
     
  3. Oct 13, 2023 at 9:08 AM
    #3
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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  4. Oct 13, 2023 at 11:51 AM
    #4
    Hayden334

    Hayden334 Well-Known Member

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  5. Oct 14, 2023 at 6:08 PM
    #5
    RichochetRabbit

    RichochetRabbit Ping Ping Ping

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    You are "bolting" into drywall, effectively. Only one bolt location is near a wall stud (the outlet tells you that). Normally a smaller bolt using a drywall anchor, I recommend something like this (https://www.lowes.com/pd/TOGGLER-20...andard-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/3183869) because if you want to remove it later you just drill out the plastic center and let the expanding part drop off behind the wall.

    But you can also use a longer piece of wood, painted the pastel colors, attached across the back/open of the shelf unit using fully countersunk locations for the bolts. Plug the front holes with wood ... no see the bold heads and paint as you wish. That can use 2 bolt into the stud and 6 "toggler" locations to hold the wood strip (symmetry). If you want the bars can have the flat part behind the wood strip (make slots that are not full-through) attached with standard bolts from the back to the strip.
     
  6. Oct 14, 2023 at 6:14 PM
    #6
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    I would probably just go black or similar with all your fasteners , you will have a hard time matching the colours

    you can use black GRK RSS screws , they come in multiple sizes and have a broad washer style head , run them into your studs
     
    JustAddMud likes this.
  7. Oct 14, 2023 at 6:41 PM
    #7
    soundman98

    soundman98 Well-Known Member

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    There isn't any fastener(toggle variations like that included) I would recommend for loading that much leverage via drywall on. Hit a stud, or open the wall and reinforce the area.
     
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  8. Oct 14, 2023 at 8:00 PM
    #8
    RichochetRabbit

    RichochetRabbit Ping Ping Ping

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    There is one stud, based on the outlet, unless wiring standards for mounting outlets are looser for his residence.

    Drywall hangers are generally not load bearing, true that.

    The shelf unit looks to be IKEA-class crapboard, making it useless for side-drill loads unless a larger board about 2 ft tall shares that drill load. But a backing board of 1/2 "blonde wood" is clean surface for painting in pastels and can have at least 1x2 wood strip (2x4?) to put bolts into on the blind side.

    OR ...

    Use the heavy pipes where they have usable mounts and mount dowels across the width for hanging surface. One on front (higher) and one in back (lower).
     
  9. Oct 14, 2023 at 8:21 PM
    #9
    RichochetRabbit

    RichochetRabbit Ping Ping Ping

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    soundman98 will likely answer me, but I will try to get this response in.

    It looks like a shelf from melaimine, also called MDF (medium density fiberboard), that I call "crapboard". Pressed sawdust, covered by thin plastic shell, and the shell is 50% of the structural integrity.

    If I designed something for you as your request, I would have used at least a clean "project pine" or blonde-wood. The corners would be reinforced for lateral stresses. The back would be either completely covered with 1/2 board or at least would have 1/2 in boards at certain places to keep open (for the outlet) but can be reinforced for the poles you selected.

    Engineering will be required for any back-mounted hooks/rods. Side-to-side dowels are the easiest path I can see.
     
  10. Oct 14, 2023 at 10:04 PM
    #10
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    I assumed the rods are going either side of the cabinet
     
  11. Oct 14, 2023 at 11:09 PM
    #11
    RichochetRabbit

    RichochetRabbit Ping Ping Ping

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    Then the OP should use a stud-finder and bolt into those. Seems we both made assumptions, and you mat be more correct than I.
     
    soundman98 likes this.
  12. Oct 15, 2023 at 8:12 AM
    #12
    soundman98

    soundman98 Well-Known Member

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    i think we all made some assumptions. i thought he was indicating he was going to mount straight to the wall using the 2 anchor points, and clothing(like a thick/heavy hoodie) would be hung off the rod. in my mind, that would mean there's a potential for up to about 50-75 pounds across the bar, and the leverage with that assumption at the far end of the rod would be way too much for a simple drywall anchor
     
  13. Oct 20, 2023 at 5:44 AM
    #13
    bassmusic

    bassmusic [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ended up using these and yes I used a stud finder.

    It all worked out good. Ikea Aurdal was a good improvement over the unit I originally got from Home Depot which was really crappy.

    533B5F65-7380-4982-83C4-CABE48716A1D.jpg
    CFC6BE4D-1365-4503-9334-C779610BC61D.jpg
     
    Hayden334 likes this.

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