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AFR sensor weld question

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by thebottomline, Mar 4, 2012.

  1. Mar 4, 2012 at 8:46 PM
    #1
    thebottomline

    thebottomline [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok I have searched quite extensively for this, here is my question for those of you with AFR gauges installed.

    Where does the bung for the O2 sensor get welded on the 2005+ 4.0L?

    I know you want it to be before the Cats, but also where you
    get all 6 cylinders. I don't think that is even possible.
     
  2. Mar 5, 2012 at 5:54 AM
    #2
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    The only way to get all six cylinders with one gauge is to put it either in the merge collector of the y-pipe, or just after the flange, in the catback. To my knowledge, the only company to send enough wire for the AFR sensor to reach there is the AEM UEGO wide band gauge.

    Otherwise, you can install it on either bank. I am not sure if you have long tube headers or not, but the easiest location would be somewhere between the front cat and rear cat. (Yes I know about not installing after cats, but the reading will still be pretty accurate as well as ease of reaching sensor.)

    Make sure to have the bung welded in a position that is between the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock sweep.

    That way moisture will be able to drip off of the sensor when installed, and not stay in the sensor, possibly damaging it.
     
  3. Mar 5, 2012 at 6:08 AM
    #3
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    This should give you and idea of the stock locations. This shows the sensors just in front of the first CAT. The rear O2s are just after the front CAT The rear CATs on both banks are not monitored by the ECU.
     
  4. Mar 5, 2012 at 6:13 AM
    #4
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    The farther you get from the header, the longer it takes to heat up and get accurate readings. That is if it doesn't have it's own heating element.
     
  5. Mar 5, 2012 at 10:08 AM
    #5
    thebottomline

    thebottomline [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok thanks guys
    Looks like I'll have to settle for one bank. I may actually put it between
    the 2 cats as torspd said. At first I read explicitly not to but several people have posted
    that it didn't affect the readings very much.
    Thanks for the diagram, quite helpful.
    I have stock exhaust on my 2011, no LT headers.
     
  6. Mar 5, 2012 at 10:10 AM
    #6
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    You'll still get codes as the ECU will be looking for 2 sets of sensors.
     
  7. Mar 5, 2012 at 10:58 AM
    #7
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Just to be clear, if you weren't sure, you will have to have a sensor bung welded in. Do not remove a factory sensor to put it into its bung. Or you will get CELs like the Mod mentioned.
     
  8. Mar 6, 2012 at 9:13 AM
    #8
    thebottomline

    thebottomline [OP] Well-Known Member

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    From what I've read, I'm going to have to pull the passenger header/exhaust manifold to weld it in then. I was taking a look at it last night, the drivers side seems quite cramped. I think it would be more difficult to work with.
     

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