After U-Bolt Retorquing

Is that a negative

 

Correct easy way to tell it’s rolled the shaft of the u-bolt is smaller than what the actual thread is....dye comes in there pushes in on the metal expands it makes the threads.

 

The differential is located by a pin on each leaf spring that goes into the spring perches on the axle tubes. There is very little play in the pin and socket. If you do want to check alignment of the rear diff then find either 2 identical points on each side of the frame and measure to the diff axle tube ( same point on each side ) or find a point dead center on the frame and measure to that point off each axle tube. If the rear diff is out of alignment you would have the truck driving sort of sideways down the road. You would notice it because you're steering wheel wouldn't be centered after doing the work.

 

52lbs dry is the recommended spec for the rear U bolts axles. It’s what I have been using and no issues or weird noises so far at 50k+ miles. They should be inspected or checked as per maintenance recommendations.

Alignment is not be necessary when adjusting torque, but when a wheel alignment is called for due to front end parts replacement, tire or suspension wear, a 4 wheel alignment is recommended to look at the thrush angle.

If the thrush angle is excessive the vehicle will not track correctly, (steering wheel spoke will not center) and the 4-wheel spec will help diagnose which rear wheel or axle toe maybe out of spec.

Hope that helps

Cheers

 

Why is the mainstream saying that was changed to 70 ft lbs?

 

IDK but 52lbs has worked for me but it could just be me, and I could be wrong

 

Derp, it's 52 ft-lbs or 70 N-M

Is this going to stretch the bolts?

 

Bold move with the Blue Loctite. I always use anti-seize.

 

Either one is going to protect the threads from galling / rust welding.

 

sure, but then why not Red Loctite or Multi-Purpose Grease since they would do the same thing as well. It seems like these are always a PITA to get loose which is why I am surprised by your choice of anti-galling/rust protection.

 

Because blue is a lighter hold than red. Red is near permanent and would require significant heat in order to break loose. Loctite also helps the threads from backing out due to vibration, whereas antisieze/grease doesn't have nearly the same effect, property wise.

 

I was being facetious.

 

Sarcasm is so easy to discern through text...

 

I was thinking possibly people seen the first number (70) and assumed it was the ft lbs without reading the legend which explains 52 is the ft lbs

 

OP, since you’ve already Locktite’d the nuts and over torqued them to 70lbs/ft, if it was me, i’d re-torque them again to around 65lbs/ft in about a hundred miles (Not enough to break the Locktite, but enough for peace-of-mind) U-bolt nuts are like wheel nuts and they tend to need a re-torque after a bunch of miles and everything has settled together.

@Ramsus, IMO, everytime U-bolts are replaced or loosened/re-tightened (lets face it, most of us have re-used U-bolts and nuts at some point) they should be torqued to spec, and then re-torqued after a hundred miles or so.....

 

I've read that on here too, so I also re-torqued them afterwards, but after around 500 miles since that's what I drive in a week. I forgot to mention it in my post.