Aftermarket rotors? The OEM's suck

warped in a misnomer. Its really just a hard spot from excessive heating. Riding your brakes will do it and then splashing into a puddle immediately will be the nail in the coffin for them. Guilty of that one.

OP, you can save your brakes by engine braking for future note, Use S mode and down shift as needed. Been down the Grapevine and the Cajon without even touching my brakes. And since you're coasting you also get a good mileage boost.

 

toyota brakes are notorious for being bad... my buddy's sequioa burns up rotors about every 10-12k, and he's running the TRD stuff.

My old 4runner (92) chewed up rotors with a stock truck in under 10k...

I don't have a fix, just saying. 30k miles is probably "normal" wear/tear.

 

I'm assuming this is for cooling. Yes? Advantages of each option are?

 

Problem solved- 17s required

 

they now make a kit for 16s as well.

 

This, I have these on mine. Got em from Rock Auto, think it was bout $150 for everything. It was a package deal.

 

But the rotor is basically stock sized.

 

Rotors are drilled, slotted, or both primarily to increase cooling. It is completely unnecessary for street use however. Most people just have them because they look cool and they are not that expensive.

Most guys I know that use their vehicles for auto cross or drag racing use solid rotors because they are a lot stronger and aren't as hard on pads. Drilled and slotted rotors will wear out pads much faster.

 

rotors are from the TRD kit but the calipers are better than stock.

 

Do you know if these work with the 17s on a sport 3rd gen?

 

Not drilled, slotted maybe--read more here...

 

I did the same thing

 

Good read. Thanks for sharing

 

Another option on top of it is new brake-pads, I had this same issue and had the rotors first re-surfaced and then I had some of the porcelain style brake pads installed. Good as new!

 

Autocross events are generally short and same with braking in the 1/4. I've never had brake fade when autocrossing. Generally tires get greasy first more than anything else. But yeah, no real reason to get cross drilled or slotted unless you're putting yourself into situations where you would experience brake fade normally with stock ones.

 

You are definitely correct, however I would imagine that while those events aren't terribly hard on brakes, they will be harder on brakes than the average driver would be driving home from work everyday. Unless you are driving down mountains on a regular basis you just don't need rotors that dissipate heat better than solid rotors.

 

I've used Brembo blanks in the past and gotten good mileage out of them, when they go on my truck that's what I'll replace with. Slotted/cross drilled may help with stopping power but they will wear your pads faster and if you drive in a lot of water, mud, sand, salt, grime I can't imagine they will love that abuse.

One thing to keep in mind, if your brakes are pulsing: make sure, before you have the rotors resurfaced, that it's not cheaper to just buy new blank rotors and install yourself vs. having them turned or "resurfaced". Also think about how many miles you have on your rotors. Brand new truck, probably fine to resurface. If you're thinking about resurfacing to correct the shudder at 30-40k, think again. Resurfacing simply removes the uneven layer of the rotor face, and you end up with "straight" rotors but they are thinner than when you started because they effectively scrape off the warped layer until it's all flush. Now that they're thinner, as you've just removed rotor, they will warp quicker the next time they are under heat stress relative to the first time. If you're turning old rotors, it won't be long until you're back to your old problem. In my experience, better to just replace.

 

Thanks for that advice. Could somebody who has minimal experience change the rotors and pads?

 

If your minimal experience taught you to have a torque wrench in your arsenal, then you should be just fine.

Just a couple pins for the pads and a couple bolts for the caliper.

As was said above, use a torque wrench for the lug nuts. There should be a torque spec around here somewhere for the caliper bolts.