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Air Conditioner Woes H E L P M E ! ! !

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by BCH, Aug 6, 2011.

  1. Aug 6, 2011 at 5:57 PM
    #1
    BCH

    BCH [OP] Shiester

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    I have almost ran out of patience. My AC on my 04 Tacoma is blowing cool air but not cold. Here's what I've done so far:

    Added extra freon - no help

    drained system, blew out all lines and condensor, recharged - no help

    changed expansion valve - no help

    changed dryer - no help

    checked condensor for obstructions - its clean no help

    checked system with gauges...low-65 high 200 - shows compressor is working

    blew out evaporator while changing expansion valve . . . it looks good

    My problem is the AC unit blows cool but not cold, compared it to a 98 model Tacoma and there's no comparison. I have no leaks for sure and I did have plenty of freon. Did I miss anything anybody can think of to check ?
     
  2. Aug 6, 2011 at 5:58 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    How cold is the air comming out?
     
  3. Aug 6, 2011 at 6:11 PM
    #3
    rleeharris

    rleeharris "Old Timer," compliments of 11Taco2.7

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    I'd be interested in what temp you're getting too.

    Two weeks ago I borrowed my neighbor's infra-red thermometer because I thought my 2010 was not blowing cold enough. Frankly, it has never felt like it was blowing rally cold air compared to other vehicles I've owned. Sure enough, the coolest I could get in my 2010 DC PreRunner was 41*... my 2000 SR5 4X4 was much colder at 30*. Ambient air temp at the time was 98* at 5pm and both vehicles were at idle on the recirculation setting (sat with all doors/windows closed for about 8-10 minutes each). That's a significant difference. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
     
  4. Aug 6, 2011 at 6:14 PM
    #4
    BCH

    BCH [OP] Shiester

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    Temp out is about 80 degrees when its 90 outside
     
  5. Aug 6, 2011 at 6:17 PM
    #5
    BCH

    BCH [OP] Shiester

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    The coldest it has been while having problems is 72 at about 90 outside. That was last week after driving it around.

    80 degrees when its 90 outside is at idle
     
  6. Aug 6, 2011 at 6:30 PM
    #6
    NelsonTacoma

    NelsonTacoma This is my derpawayinator!!!!!

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    Sounds like a bad compressor could be the problem. That's the only thing you haven't changed. Do you know what your high/low system pressures are? Ideal pressures are 210psi high and 30psi low. All those other things you checked don't matter if your compressor isn't doing it's job. Might want to check that.
     
  7. Aug 6, 2011 at 6:41 PM
    #7
    cmf21

    cmf21 Well-Known Member

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    Check that coolant valve (forget the name) on the firewall, engine side, and make sure it's closing all the way when you turn the dial all the way cold.

    When I got my truck, this was part of the problem. I had a small leak that supposdly got fixed but it didn't seem to do any good as it's not that cold. In my opinion, it seems like these trucks don't get very cold. My brothers and my fathers 4runners aren't that cold either.
     
  8. Aug 7, 2011 at 6:55 AM
    #8
    spidy3

    spidy3 Well-Known Member

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    was it charged the right amount? if you overcharge its not going to work properly either.

    jw since you said you added extra freon, wasnt too sure what that meant
     
  9. Aug 7, 2011 at 7:24 AM
    #9
    pudge151

    pudge151 Well-Known Member

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    bring it in to a shop
     
  10. Aug 7, 2011 at 7:45 AM
    #10
    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    Overcharging R-134a will cause a decrease in superheat, an increase in subcooling and and a decrease in evaporator temperature differential, thus insufficient cooling.

    If your pressures are 60 psi and 200 psi @ R-134a, then you're probably overcharged. At 60psi the saturated temperature of the refrigerant in your evaporator is 62 degrees or so, which probably means you have no superheat.
     
  11. Aug 13, 2011 at 7:52 AM
    #11
    BCH

    BCH [OP] Shiester

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    Problem fixed......I found out my condensor was replaced with the wrong type (R12 condensor) after it being damaged while installing the ARB front winch bumper. I am in discussions with the installer at this time to see what they are willing to do to help me recover some of the $600+ expenses troubleshooting the problem / replacing parts. Basically after the bumper install the AC was not used for a while but when it was needed it did not blow cold. Since a new condensor was suppose to be on my truck it never occured to me that would be the problem so I started with the expansion valve. Replaced, recharged, no help. Then I replaced the drier, recharged, no help. After being puzzled because the AC gauges showed the correct pressures, I started researching the condensor. I found that Toyota trucks have a surpentine type condensor instead of a parallel type like was used as a replacement on my truck after the other was busted. Replaced the condensor once again and problem solved. I will update this posting after working with the installer to see if they help out on the expenses related to my woes.
     
  12. Aug 30, 2011 at 1:51 AM
    #12
    SirGeoff

    SirGeoff Well-Known Member

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    My 06 AC just got "less cold" in the past few days (I'm on the westcoast of Canada were the hot days are only 75 - 80 F).
    Could someone suggest the order of problem checking most likely to get me to the problem fastest.
    I don't want to go to the Toyota Stealer, as I'm in dispute with them over a $500 airbag clockspring plus $180 labour quote, that I can find online for $215.
    Do regular (non-toyota) autoshops top-up freon and check AC or should I be looking for a refrigeration company?
    Cheers...
     
  13. Aug 31, 2011 at 6:53 PM
    #13
    spidy3

    spidy3 Well-Known Member

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    OP... when they put the R12 condenser on your truck, did they recharge it with R12????



    SirGeoff - you can bring it to any shop that does A/C work but I would be careful and make sure they are a reputable shop. A/C stuff can get pretty pricey if someone messes it up. If you do bring it someplace other than dealer, ask if there is a tech that has taken a A/C class and have them work on it.
     
  14. Aug 31, 2011 at 6:57 PM
    #14
    HondaGM

    HondaGM Roll Tide

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    sounds like you have the wrong condensor in it,was it replaced recently?
     
  15. Sep 1, 2011 at 1:10 AM
    #15
    SirGeoff

    SirGeoff Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Spidy3 - I'm heading into the "city" tomorrow and will ask around...
     
  16. Sep 1, 2011 at 10:03 AM
    #16
    MadMtnMikey

    MadMtnMikey Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys, another suggestion to check into. Anytime you disconnect lines, or change out parts, you're letting moisture into the system, because outside ambient air contains moisture, or humidity. Yes there's a dryer in the system, but continued moisture allowed into the system can cause it to prematurely wear out. You remove moisture by placing a vacuum on the system. If moisture circulates in the system, it will not get cold, especially at low RPM. Harbor Freight sell a very cheap box you can do this with for like $15. I just went through a similar go around as the OP after changing the compressor and wondering WTF. Except my system was R-134
     
  17. Sep 1, 2011 at 10:06 AM
    #17
    UndefinedTaco

    UndefinedTaco I'll eat all your food.

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    It's an 89 Toyota Pickup. I got some stuff done to it.. FJ axles going under it soon.
    Moisture is a non-condensable...so it doesn't condense and therefore causes a restriction..could be at metering device, filter drier, etc.


    Restriction = not good :)


    You pretty much wasted money, most of that stuff is not needed.
    Shoulda asked on here first.



    This reminds me of Service Champions. Piece of shit company.
    They go to a call, look at a outdoor unit(DON'T EVEN OPEN IT UP)..and try to start it...then they say you need a new condensing unit($1800) When in reality a capacitor($40) is needed, or something like a TDR.

    What noobs.
     
  18. Sep 1, 2011 at 11:24 AM
    #18
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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  19. Sep 2, 2011 at 3:07 AM
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    MadMtnMikey

    MadMtnMikey Well-Known Member

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    I had moisture in my system only after changing the compressor which I knew was bad because it was screaming. This was on my Scion. Anytime you service an A/C system involving the disconnecting of things, a vacuum needs to be placed on it to remove any possible moisture. Likewise, when you charge the system, all the charge lines need to be purged of air, otherwise you're slowly introducing moisture. A system with a dryer it will take longer to notice the problem. Smaller R-134 system, you'll notice it a lot sooner.

    about 28 mmHg of vacuum for close to 30 minutes will do the trick. You can use less, just takes longer to get it out.

    BTW, for most people not in the know, google is your best friend for learning the basics of how A/C works. Or find a certified and knowledgeable family member ;)
     
  20. Sep 16, 2011 at 4:03 PM
    #20
    SirGeoff

    SirGeoff Well-Known Member

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    Before I drive 100 km to the nearest auto shop, could someone advise if the fact that the Condenser is not turning (with AC on high) means that it is a condensor problem;, or could simply be insufficent freon (or whatever they use these days) which shuts down the condenser; or the clutch that's gone?
    I have checked the one and only fuse that I can find, and it's fine (unless there are others that I'm not aware of?)
    I just want to go there informed of what the problem might be before I'm told the condensor isn't turning therefore here's a $500 bill to replace it!!!
    Model:- 2006; 4L; 6 cyl; 4 door.
    Cheers,
    Geoff
     
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