Air Conditioning Advice

Hey guys, I replaced my evaporator core on my truck about 8-10 months ago because the hard lines coming off of it were completely broken. (bought the truck like that and finally decided to fix it) I also replaced the dryer unit. I went ahead and paid a shop to fully evacuate the system and fill it. The AC worked great until now. I drove it for a few hours and when I parked at my buddy's house I noticed a hissing sound, so I popped the hood.

I noticed that it was coming from the pin valve on the line that goes to the compressor (pictured)


I tried to tighten the pin valve in, but as far as I can tell it's as tight as it's going to get, so I just left my truck alone. The next day the A/C wasn't blowing cold. The compressor still engages and I see the idle raise when I press the A/C button.

I also noticed that the compressor was covered in oil. I can't remember if it's always been that dirty, but you can see traces of the dye that they stick into the freon on it. (pictured)


Now my question is, should I replace the whole line, or just the pin valve? I can't tell if any of that grime is due to the rubber part of the line seeping or anything. Also should I probably buy an o-ring kit to replace the o-rings on the lines going into the compressor? I figure once I figure this out I'll go back and pay the shop the $150 to evac. and recharge the system again.

Also I pushed in the pin valves on both sides really quick and they both still have plenty of pressure in them. Don't know if that helps.

 

I would get the o-ring kit for the compressor and a repair kit for both charging ports and check the system for leaks, then fill with freon and probably a new dryer again since it will be open to moisture again. I think most a/c shops should have the repair kits, also clean all the areas before having the work done.

 

no need for a new drier unless the system has completely lost all Freon.

I have concerns the hose may be leaking to the right of that valve, where you see oil, there is a leak.

normally I would say replace the O-rings at the compressor connection and replace the valve cores in the valves but if the hose has a leak and it looks like it does, then replacing the whole line is best and it should come with the new o-rings.

let the shop do the hose replacement and they should be able to remove and save the Freon saving you some money.

I would go to the car wash first and blast all that crud away from the compressor so its clean when they replace the hose.

 

Where are you guys taking it to get serviced? Is there a popular place to get it done? Looking at replacing a few parts on mine and having the whole system flushed. Although I don't really need them to vacuum or recharge it. I've got the tools for all that. Just not for flushing. Although ~$150 isn't bad if they can do it all in one shot. I assume they'd say they can only do the full service anyways due to some warranty/service policy bs.. But yeah just wondering where to take it..

 

I agree with this with an emphasis on the standing pressure test/leak check. Any a.c. Mechanic worth his salt will put a small amount of refrigerant into the system first and add dry nitrogen on top of that. That way he can watch for pressure drop in the system as well as use an electronic leak detector to sniff for very small leaks. After that proceed to evacuate and

 

......and recharge system. (Fat fingers hit send too soon

 

Since the shop only charges me $150 to do a full evac and fill (that's what they charged me when I came in initially with a system that had been open to the atmosphere for years) I figure that price is cheaper than them charging me to replace a hose, that I can do myself easily even if they can recapture some of the freon that's left. I'll go ahead and order the whole hose as well as some o-rings.

Anyone know of a better price than $152? That's what RockAuto wants for the whole hose =/

 

I've haven't found anyone to beat rock auto yet.

 

Found an OEM one new for $106...saved $40+

 

Wonder if it's possible that the technician overcharged the system, or if there is an obstruction, causing a overpressure relief valve to engage, causing the refrigerant to dump out. I'm speaking from experience in Euro systems, I'm not even sure if there is one integrated into these trucks. I'd have your tech check the pressure left in the system first, and like the previous poster said, if they have a nitrogen pump, to pressurize the system and use a blacklight to check for other leaks (as in the compressor). Hopefully you can reproduce the leaking fill valve. The pag oil should have UV dye in it already. Also make sure it's going into the right place, the smaller line is typically
the high side. Unlikely but possible.

If you're looking for the part new, I can recommend my supplier, BMA (sales@bmaparts.com), located in Glendale, CA. They have been able to get me everything I need for mine. Used, try the thread in the marketplace for calminitruck. I've been to their shop for parts off of the multiple tacomas they are parting out.

 

Bought it through Toyota or who?

 

http://parts.autonationtoyotasouthaustin.com/

^The website said the A/C line I ordered and the valve cover gasket I ordered were genuine Toyota parts and they were cheaper than any other site I checked, including Rock Auto.

 

Nice.Just bookmarked that for meself!

 

not only do they have the best prices, they also have the lowest shipping too, you buy a small item, and you pay like $3-$4 shipping, not $10-$15 like other places

 

I have to plug BMA parts again, free shipping on parts over $75. Im not a employee, just a very satisfied customer.