Air Locker RD232 on a 2019 MT Sport

Considering a larger $ acquisition.

8.75" 5.29 Nitro Gears, and ARB Rear Air Locker

Around $2500 in parts including compressor.

Should I do it?

What about a front air locker?

I think I will like the 5.29 because 2 OD 5 and 6, and wanting lower 1-2-3 and R.

If I do it, it will be a large project and will do ADM and R only Low switch at the same time.

Discuss, throw rocks, etc What am I neglecting?

 

Front lockers on Toyotas means breaking tons of CV axles, It's best to start with the rear and see how you fair.

I would only put a lock the front if I was having trouble keeping up with the group I was going with.

 

I’ve been locked front for over a year now. No broken CVs. Go locked in both diffs if you’re regearing anyways.

 

My personal experience, with a few of my customers/co-workers. It might have to do with terrain, size of the tires, and driver.

You are right though, the diff is torn apart and you're commiting.

 

Don't you have an e-locker on the 2019 OR 4x4 MT? Just curious, cause I have a 2019 OR 4x4 AT.

 

He has a sport

 

Doh!

 

I knew I wasn't getting a stock e-locker when I went into this......but I also thought 4.88 would be fine

 

if you got the pockets go eaton e locker, idk if it's stronger, but it's easier.

I'm running 285/75r16 and of course you don't bounce, you learn how to drive with the front locker engaged. It makes it where momentum isn't needed for most stuff.

carry a spare CV with you just in case of course, but honestly you shouldn't have an issue unless you start bouncing wheels off ground.

 

Thanks#

How much is it? Eaton.

Easier? You mean installation?

 

So I've never seen or heard an air locker. What is the process? Flip the switch, compressor comes on and actuates ? Delay time?

 

installation is going to be similar, eaton may not be as strong, but it's never going to have an air leak.

when offroading the compressor stays on, lockers are flip of a switch and basically instant. You can activate them while approaching an obstacle. They actually activate better this way because it helps the splines lock in where they should be. When engaging sitting still the locker may not full engage till you creep forward or reverse a tiny amount. It's basically instant though.

when you're ready to disengage don't stop, just flip switches off for lockers, keep compressor on if still offroad if you want, and it does it's thing.

 

Great info! I assumed separate switch for compressor. Thanks!!

 

If you have an air tank keep it pressurized all the time, then you just need the locker switch which is instant.

 

Maybe not many Gen 3 folks running ARB Air Lockers. I wonder if Gen 2 guys tried them? Tried searching and all I did was watch jeep videos of breaking POP front axles

 

Sub'd... i'm researching adding a locker on my sr5 2wd... i'm trying to get an answer from a Harrop Distributor to see if they have a Elocker that fits the my 3rd gen SR5.

 

This makes me question why you didn't buy an OR in the first place if you thought you'd be doing a locker. Having the locker & Crawl Control for almost the same price as a Sport is a no-brainer.

 

Long bed, MT, AC in OR. GO.

 

Until the US gets an ACLB MT OR like our Canadian friends, the Sport versus OR arguement is BS.




If we're talking DCs or ATs, then the OR makes all the sense in the world.

 

A rear locked 4x4 is a night/day difference in capability over open diff 4x4....start with a rear locker and worry about doing the front if you think you still need it.

Front lockers are for people that go beyond the 'most difficult' rated trails and into the extreme rated territory. Most people don't really need a front locker. And like mentioned earlier, front CV axles are far weaker than the axle shafts in the rear and are easily broken if you aren't careful driving with the front locker engaged.

Unless you're re-gearing front/rear, then it may make sense to go ahead and put a locker in both since you have it torn apart anyway.