Alabama Off-road/ Mods/ Meets Thread

Not sure about the wheel spacer issue, but I would guess the 1.25 would be good. Then you may have to worry about the wheel grabbing the inner fender well when it is all the way into the wheel well. That depends on how much you offroad and how often your wheels will go that far into the wheel well.

For the leveling kit, it depends on what kind of fabtech suspension set up you have. It sounds like you will just want to add a basic toytec spacer, not that I reccomend those, but those are the easiest unless you want to buy a new coilover set up. The only thing I would worry about is the UCAs if you haven't upgraded those yet with that much lift. If you do go with the spacer while running those 33s, then that will put a lot of stress on your stock suspension components. Just my .02. There will be some more experienced input coming from a lot of these guys.

 

Great! Thanks for the input. That will def get me started. Was hoping this would be a relatively easy fix....Well, easy on the billfold

 

Also it's $25 per truck to get in. It's an honor box system.

 

Or a 1 inch body lift and wheel spacers, I can tell you now that regardless if you add wheel spacers they will still rub at full lock, just not as bad. Also doing this will cause some rubbing on the front bumper at the bottom, just trim that up some, and then hit the pinch weld with a hammer until flat. I did this before I put 35s on my 1st gen and it caused minor rub at full luck with little flex like pulling out of the driveway. Now with my 35 KM2s that are almost bald, they would technically be considered a 33 now because of how worn down they are, they rub at full lock but that is also a 11.5 inch tire with 1.5 inch wheel spacer.

 

DONT ADD A SPACER ON TOP OF YOUR CURRENT LIFT! It will put unneeded stress on the frontend. The best thing you can do is get a different lift that will truly level out the truck, then get some UCA's. I might not be understanding you though. I know TacoFMS can shed some light on this subject.

From my understanding, a spacer might not help the situation, you might need to get a different wheel with a different back spacing.

 

Ok... lifts 101. Unless you extend the bumpstops, put in UCA's and CV's that can handle the angles, you're not buying any less rub with more lift. Alex is correct that you need to clearance the wheel wells to get rid of rub. All the lift is doing is moving the tire out under a "normal" load. Any compression of the suspension is going to push the tire right back to where it will rub.

There's a good reason that the most common lift on these trucks (1st and 2nd both) is 2-3" with 33's. Past that, you get into either non-trivial body work at least, or that PLUS lots of expensive drive line and susepnsion parts at most.

I can also tell you, wheeling, if you lift the thing 3", you won't have much down travel, which, isn't exactly ideal.

If you could reliably wheel 35's kinda hard on a Tacoma and fit them with not much lift, I think the ideal setup would be a 1.5" lift, and 35's. You'd get the same approach, breakover, and departure as a 2.5" lift on 33's, but with better suspension geometry and articulation and added axle clearance.

I know Dave is running 35's, and I think there was some other kid in here who ran them over a year ago. There are issues though, potentially, if you get into the throttle too much.

 

^^ I have no complaints running 35's. But, I also had no problem stripping my wheel wells and taking a sledge hammer to them to make the tires fit. Also, my tires do rub the frame and full lock.


I would avoid running 35's, if you plan to wheel, and don't want the hassle.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I'll have to admit, I'm a little more confused now. haha. I've only just begun to really learn about mods for my truck. I've always had a good idea what things were, but it became a whole new ballgame when I started adding them on. I would classify myself as a beginner with all of this.

My lift is a Fabtech suspension lift. 2.5" (I realize I might get some shit for using them) and my tires are 33's. I suppose if I needed to run a better lift, I could, and sell the Fabtech. I guess I just need the best fix for rubbing my frame at full lock. I also rub the fender flare, but I can handle that no problem. I also wouldn't mind another 1-1.5" inch lift for what I have now. My Shrockworks bumper will be here in a couple weeks, I received my 240 Blitz over the weekend.

I would like to start wheeling more often, but I'll most likely stick to the novice trails at first. (if there is such a thing)

Thanks again guys- John the begginner.

 

Where you located John? I'm on my mobile so I can't see location.

 

I'm in Birmingham. Hoover area.

 

No worries! If I can make it on the 29th, then I will let you know a couple of days ahead of time. At a minimum I will need to get the front gears installed.

We all were noobs once with lifting the Tacoma. You will learn fast. Lots of good information from some experienced people here, that is for sure. All you gotta do is ask, like you have!

 

Thanks man! I def look forward to not being a noob! Definitely lucky to have y'all at TW for advice. I might be SOL if not. haha

Here is a few more pics of how she sits now.

 

Someone with a first gen may have a better idea, but on a 2nd gen if that were the case, I'd say wheels with the correct offset, a hammer, and a grinder. Keep the 33's, and forget about more lift. That's going to be the quickest and most painless route. If you want more lift (>3") or bigger tires (35's), you're going to go down the rabbit hole a good bit further.

 

i use to work at that NTB!!!!

 

Late reply but will let you know if they become available.

 

Mounted and ready to go!

 

Glad to finally see them on!! No go beat em up!

 

Gotta wait for time to do that! Lol

 

Matt hard at work yesterday afternoon. My welder did a hell of a job!

 

You are certified arent you Floor? thought I remembered you saying you were.