Alabama thread!

still chopping, beating and trimming. Tight fit to weld in haha. Unfortunately looks like I’ll have to run a 0.75” bora spacer to clear the UCA at full lock in reverse which is a bummer. Anyone have a pair laying around they want to sell?

 

That is actually a Chevy or Geo Tracker

 

Dude, that really sucks. I may have missed this, but will it be a fight with insurance?

 

I was never a fan of those cab chops that cut the whole side off or relocate it all together. The cab mount was designed in that spot from the factory to stop the wheel well and tire from blowing into the cab area in the event of a crash. They were made with safety in mind not just structural thought as well. Just a thought. Not trying to bash. Just giving my thoughts on those aggressive cab chops.

I think you could fit a 35 with the proper offset cutting to plastic and backspacing and a great alignment.

 

Let me know what you’re running to make it happen as far as parts and alignment, wheel and tire specs. I can’t seem to get it to clear the UCA without adding a spacer.

 

cheapest route would be a wheel spacer like you said. Buying new wheels with offset and back spacing is another route but pretty pricey. Just depends on what you want to do. Alignment wont do anything for it rubbing on UCA. Make sure you get Hub centric wheel spacers.

 

If i go 35 ill just keep my wheel spacers and get some 0 offset wheels. 1.25 spacers. 4.5 inches back spacing. Caster maxed out put camber probably as close to factory as possible. Trim flare and body about inch and beat in pinch weld.

 

You might consider reducing the turning limit as an answer.

 

You’re probably right on the wheels. I had the option of 0 offset on the 16x8. That with my original 1.25” spacers would have probably worked. But a bora 0.75” should get me close to that anyways with the -10 offset. I didn’t think I’d have to do much more trimming, honestly, but it’s amazing how much more tire a 35 actually is once it’s in there. The alignment tech pushed the wheel forward as much as possible, and it’s still close. I didn’t want to bother with chopping the cab mount a third time so went to the nuclear option. Doubt it will make a big difference in a crash intense enough to send any alloy wheel through a firewall and cab mount, but it’s all conjecture without computer modeling and testing.

 

Thought about that. I need to get under there and measure to see how much I’d actually lose. I need to cycle them and see what changes, too. I want to get every bit of travel and turn radius i possibly can before limiting anything.

 

That sucks. Was that a NFA upper???

 

yea the more you offset the wheel the more it will rub on the cab mount area at turn. You just got to find that balance. I think go with spacers and locktight red and toque to spec.. You running after market UCA?

 

Sorry to hear.

Do you think they knew you had guns?

 

Another reason I cut so much haha. I’m running JBAs. Wondering if I should have gone with something like total chaos. It’s just barely rubbing the front of them.

 

nah jba is better for being able to dial in alignment. might have a harder time with TC

 

poop. spacer it is then. Was hoping to leave those behind after getting new wheels.

 

35 12.50? or 315?

 

315 75 16 cooper mtp. Website says 11.9” wide, but I haven’t verified. Strange because the width for their 315 70 17 was 12.4 or something.

 

def gonna have an easier time with 315 than 12.5

 

Yeah I couldn’t imagine anything wider haha